Valkaru

Great info for everyone to remember, not only do I wipe it just before install, but do everything I can to not touch anything but the plug as it comes out of packaging and into the car. I think these bulbs lasted well over 12 months already, had tried Sylvanias last time that survived a few months and choked. My wife works for a Volvo dealer and their service folks say it is pretty common for both bulbs to blow at nearly the same time. I wonder if one dying causes a spike to nuke the other or something, but at $5 each, I spent more time chasing the error than worrying about EMP in my Subie:-p

Moral of the Story: Do not skip steps when troubleshooting One bulb looked okay, did not pull the other. Went and bought two new bulbs at Wally World for a grand total of $9.34, and swapped in the parking lot for success:) The bulb on the right side under the air feed tube was obviously blown, I was just lazy:dead: and did not pull it as I should have when first troubleshooting.

No, but that will be tomorrow if there is not some other obvious thing anyone suggests. Pulling the bulbs out, the filament looks good in each one. I really could jump power to test it, but a bad bulb usualy has a broken or melted filament, ro the glass is fogged, etc... These look like new:-\

My low beams decided to stop working yesterday, and I am now officially stumped:( Both bulbs appear good (amazing coincidence to have both blow at same time), just replaced one of the relays that seemed to be shorted (closed circuit with continuity checker across two legs, partial closed across power legs), no bad fuses in either fuse panel. For those that play with electrons all day long, I compared one HL relay to the other and once noting a difference, compared to the fog light and horn relays. Fog lights work, high beams work, all parking & signal lights work. 2001 OBW Limited, 147,000+ miles now, virtually always drive with headlights on and fogs off. Have replaced headlight bulbs a couple of times, but not enough to raise an alarm. Any body have any ideas what else I can check? Please let me know soon, the nights are getting longer and I refuse to blind oncoming traffic because of my incompetence. Thanks in advance:clap: Speed Safely! David

Don't be scared:grin: The timing belt was done at 60K, when they opened her up to replace both head gaskets on warranty along with the timing belt idler pulley. I paid for the new belt ($82 IIRC), but all else was covered. Kudos to the dealer for taking care of it (replacing the water pump at the same time, plus the oil and antifreeze change on their nickel). Could probably skip the belt this time, but might as well do it on the DREAM that this set of headgaskets will last more than 40K miles. Yes, I noticed the oil smell at 40K, antifreeze about 52K, not fault found at the dealer, had someone else do a pressure test and found the leak so the warratny repair occurred. Began smelling oil again at 95K, dealer said no faults found again:(

...i could be wrong on your specific vehicle, but i'd check before assuming it's easy And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I posted on this esteemed site:) Gary, thanks for the words of warnings. I grew up on a TR-3a, then small & big block Chryslers of the 60's, leaving major engine work to someone else after that. The pics do indicate the sump having a bit of plumbing, etc... Maybe I can get them to lighten up on the charges for replacing the pan at the dealer, but am also going to have a local shop quote me repairs. They recited hours of labor and the variance if other work happens at the same time. Never meant to say valve cover, although that is the type of leakage I am experiencing. No contaminated oil or antifreeze, just some dirt/goo buildup on the head where oil leaks. I will look into CCR as well, although someone still has to do the swap for me:( Tthanks everyone

Left side has a small leak to the outside, no decrease in oil level over 5K miles (my interval using Mobil 1). The first set had each side leaking to the earth, small leaks but fixed on warranty that time

All right, kids, you all seem to have lots of knowledge about realistic repair costs, needs, etc... and I am hoping to get a warmer feeling about a dealer recommendation. Brought my '01 OBW (2.5, 4EAT, 130K miles) in for annual inspection, they tell me it needs the oil pan replaced, transmission harness o-ring replaced, oil pump resealed from leaking wrist pin plug(s) and left side head gasket replaced (oil leak). While in there, they are going to replace the timing belt and water pump. The oil pan is corroding (soft and punky) where the dip stick hole pierces the pan, otherwise the entire pan does not even have scratched paint. The head gaskets (oil on left, water on right leaking), water pump and timing belt were replaced at 60K miles. They are telling me ~$2200 for the repairs in one smooth motion, not counting the oil pan which would be an additional $375. I can buy the pan for $65 all in, so will do that myself at the next oil change. Assuming nothing else is found when they pull it apart, is this a reasonable/realistic price? I have been running Mobil 1 since 8K miles and the car still runs strong and gets 26 MPG in winter with me driving a little more enthusiastically than many local Subie drivers:grin:. Your comments are appreciated. And, yes, I do intend to keep the car another ~2 years, and am the original owner.

I picked up a set of take-offs from a WRX for someone who needed a bit more BLING. $300 for four alloy wheels with RE-92 tires having ~4-5K miles on them:). That meant the Blizzaks went on the original Outback alloys, but that was OK. Depending on your area and school of thought, steel wheels for winter are a better choice (potholes, salt, etc...), but I could not pass up the deal. I found the set on one of the more WRX strong sites (www.NASIOC.com or www.I-Club.com) and found someone close enough I did not have to fool with shipping costs.BTW, the RE-92's are not all that wonderful, especially as the tread depth goes down. The OD of the tires is a little small, so the speedometer is reading almost exactly 10% low according to my GPS. The shorter sidewalls make a slightly firmer ride and less sidewall flex if you are practicing GP driving in an Outback:brow: . Hope this helps, Speed Safely, David

Ranger: Sir? Who you callin' Sir? I work for a living:D:D. Original owner (0.7 miles when I test drove, my neighbor was teh dealership finance guy and delivered my car to my house so I could ride my motorcycle:D:D, so only 2.1 drivers on the car, and I have done ~99% of the miles myself), 2 dino oil changes before 10K miles, then Mobil 1 every 3-4K miles since then. Every maintenance before due or completely worn out (although the brakes only had a few hundred miles left if I hammered them). I will agree (and was trying to take into account) that the website(s) can amplify problems, considering the same person may post in 3 or more places, but it is still one problem. Luckily, I only have one user name, so everyone knows it is the same whiner;). Hearing others tell that techs and service managers advise they are doing 2-3 per week tells me the gasket is a bit more pervasive than that, but this is also just heresy. My one argument against that is that Subaru is extending a warranty and correcting these issues, which goes against the grain of most car mfgrs I had experience with. Of course, I could also take that as a VERY positive note, that they are fixing things that are even borderline, and I hope to come around to that feeling.

Scoobaroo: I do not recall at the moment where I saw the various comments (and it is ALL really just one person's opinion, fact or fiction), but here are the sites I regularly watch: forums.nasioc.com/forums; http://www.i-club.com; http://www.subaruoutback.org; plus USMB, of course:D NASIOC has a Legacy, Baja and Outback forum, while I-Club just has a Legacy forum. It was on one of the Legacy or Outback forums on those two sites I saw the message about the redesigned head gasket and people that had 1-3 replacements until the latest design was installed. You may want to go and do a search for head gasket on one of them if you want to see more info. Wish I could be more specific, and/or find a single soid reference of info that is direct or nearly direct from Subaru. Most of the time, it is information passed along with the best of intents, but only repeating what a service writer or similar has told someone. When all is said and done, Speed Safely and Live in Moderation. It will all come out in the end, we only hope the end is a LOT farther away than we fear. And now back to our regularly scheduled program, "Working for a Living"

Scoobaroo: I have been surfing around (since before I bought the car and constantly since), and this head gasket issue on the Ph II engines seems to have become popular in the last 9-12 months. Some comments indicate the gasket WAS redesigned, and cars built after late 2001 are not impacted at all (that have been noted) and those that had gaskets replaced since 2002 have been OK also. So IF it happens w/in or near the warranty, it will get fixed and be ALL better:D

Dang, Stoneman, that is not a happy list. I am running neck-to-neck with you, and even live in NH! Bought the car based on everyone's love of it, longevity, etc... Owned since new end of 2001, cleared 64K miles this morning on the way in to work in Manchester. Replaced the brakes at all corners at 49K, rotors replaced up front. Manchester Subaru replaced the timing belt tensioner on warranty at ~53K miles (I had knocking that only got worse when cold, joked that it was a diesel but had me scared for $$), and paid for a new belt while it was pulled down. They then replaced both head gaskets at ~58K miles, and threw in the water pump and thermostat while they were there. I also was sold on the car, but I agree these are major items early in a vehicle's life, warranty or not. Hearing about more folks having head gasket problems (and now transmissions seem to be getting 'popular'), on a second/third generation engine is pretty sad. Can I recommend the car to another person, only with warnings about problems that I have had that seem to be COMMON. I still enjoy driving the car, feel that it was a fair price for what I got, but am getting a bit more concerned about the transmission now. We were planning on keeping the car to ~180K miles (another 2-3 years) Good Luck on whatever you do, and Speed Safely:D:D

I had the timing belt tensioner replaced (on warranty) at 53K miles, and paid for the belt just because. Having a 100K service interval on the belt, I was already past halfway there, and it only cost ~$83 (parts only, labor on warranty). The car went in and had both head gaskets replaced at ~58K, and the dealer included the water pump and thermostat as part of the warranty repair. He said when the major systems are pulled down like that, they just do these other items because it is the smart thing. Plus, I got free oil and antifreeze changes:D, and the dealer always washes the car when they do a service. Manchester Subaru in Manchester, NH, by the way. Speed Safely!!

Where's it go:( 46, 318 bytes on my puter, so it is under the maximum:cool:

Chris: I had shopped around a while for my roof box, but already favored Yakima because of previous/current bike rack ownership. I also have bike racks off my old VW Jetta Trek (basically European Thule knock-offs). I ended up putting the dual Thule style racks on the factory bars, then picked up Yakima towers and 58" crossbars, fitting a Thule Evolution 1800 box in between my Yakima 'Steelhead' bike racks (front wheel removed and mounted alongside the handlebars. You do not have to go to 58" crossbars with just the box. I put a set of pulleys and some clothline from my garage ceiling with a rope cleat on the wall and some old carpeting on the ceiling joists. Now I pull in, lower the box, bars and towers just off the roof, then lock down the towers to the factory rails. With the front tower as far forward as possible, the rear hatch with factory spoiler clears the box by about 3/4". It is about 15-20 minutes by myself to get this maneuver done, on or off, but I have been getting practice:) I probably lose 3-5 mpg with the box on, and the cruise control struggles a bit with maintaining 75 MPH, where it struggles with ~85-90 when nothing is on the roof. I picked the Evolution box because it seemed a bit more aerodynamic, plus it opens from either side, making loading and unloading easier. I picked Yakima towers because I already had bike racks for it, but I definitely wanted locking towers just to secure stuff. Never heard of anyone stealing a roof box, but I would probably be the first:D This setup is costlier than the Sears units, but I like it. I am attaching the only photo showing any part of it, but you can see the forward tower location and one of the front bike rack mounts. Hope this helps!

I usually try to not be a Sh**house lawyer, but with SO many instances of failed head gaskets (mine among them), I would really see if they'll fix it under warranty. Mine had both gaskets replaced at ~58K miles, and they replaced the waterpump and thermostat at the same time, no cost to me:) Maybe I have an exemplary dealer, but I would think SOA wants to keep you as a customer. I am STILL having second thoughts about another Sube, this is my first and I really enjoy, but new head gaskets seem a bit ridiculous so young, especially when the last generation also has a history of failures. Good Luck whichever way you go! Speed safely, David

Just to chime in, had posted this note (I thought) a month or so ago. Of course, now I am starting to smell oil AGAIN , with 3K miles on the new head gaskets. I am holding out til after XMas, but am watching fluid levels. Since the warranty is only to 60K miles, I am afraid I'll be fighting a little, but the head gaskets are only ~2 months old. - Loud clattering at startup, initially when very cold (25-30K miles) finally started even on warm/hot days. I initially thought it was piston slap, but at 54K miles took it in with an oil burning smell and the clatter. They could find no leaks, but replaced the timing belt tensioner on warranty. I bought a new timing belt for $89 just to be safe. - 2 weeks later at ~58K miles, I started smelling anti-freeze, and within 2-3 days noticed the level going down. Dealer replaced both head gaskets (oil on the right, coolant on the left, thank you), along with a new thermostat and water pump because it is good practice. The car has always run great, and I love it, but this much work this young makes me worry a bit. Speed Safely! David

Oppie: I like my Blizzaks, but I have to agree the tread life could be better, and I'll probably try something different for the next set. I had worn out the stock tires on my factory alloys, so threw the Blizzaks on. Picked up a slightly used set of WRX takeoffs (~1000 miles on the tires) and have been running those all summer. On an OBW, the shorter sidewall looks a little silly (big fender clearance), but the handling is a bit tighter. I had intended to buy steels for the winter tires, assuming I might clip a curb or something, but the takeoffs were only $300, so I had to do it. Best of luck in your choice, be happy there are some good choices out there and excellent advice here:grin: Speed Safely! David

I went to pick up my loaner, and my car was DONE!! They did both sides, left gasket leaking oil (I reported that weeks ago, the tech thought it was dirt burning? ?), AND replaced the thermostat and waterpump, along with all gaskets and fresh anti-freeze, oil & filter. I am kind of amazed at the amount they replaced, and will visually check tomorrow in daylight, but all bad smells are gone. All on warranty, I glanced at the worksheet and it looked like ~$780 in parts & labor. Of course, this many challenges at 58K makes me wonder about long term. Been running synthetic oil since 6K miles, pay attention to all fluid levels, never overheating or other challenges, and average 97 miles per day driving so everything gets good and warmed up:grin: Brakes at all four corners at ~45K, but engine challenges so early are a bit worrisome. Should I expect the second set of head gaskets to live longer? TIA, David

My 01 OBW-LTD cleared 58K miles last week, and started to have a smell of antifreeze after driving or idling for a while. Couldn't spot any leaks, and no visible loss of liquid from the plastic overflow/holding tank. Finally saw liquid loss after 2-3 days, took it out for a system pressure check and found it has a blown head gasket on the left side. Dealer is warranty-ing the repair and will give me a loaner, should I be concerned about the right side also? I know many have pointed out the Gen I's had challenges, and now a smattering of Gen II's are popping up. Got the timing belt tensioner replaced 2-3 weeks ago on warranty, and now I see a few others posting issues. Just thought y'all might be keeping score. Speed Safely, David

I have the 'factory' one in my '01 OBW LTD, and the top is a little different. The lower corners rest on the plastic window trim a little behind and just above the mounting bars for the privacy cover. The upper slightly curved pieces catch the upper plastic window trim just behind the seatbelts. On one side, the top of the frame has a bigger distance away from the top mount to clear the center seatbelt shoulder strap. I did have to cut a single piece of 'wire' out to clear the upper safety belt for my baby car seat, but otherwise it fits pretty well. I think the whole thing shold be about 1/2" wider to beter fill the space, as it seems to be holding on to the edge of the plastic trim, but it does stay. Were I to do it again, I would buy the same one at the same price, if that is any help. Speed Safely! David

Mike: I hope you can get yours fixed as warranty. On mine, they 'adjusted' the timing belt tensioner (according to the paperwork) and the noise is gone, so that is a good thing. Over $300 worth of labor under warranty, just to adjust it:cornfuzz: . I did have them put in a new timing belt while she was opened up, only $67:drunk: , so I guess I can hang out until 150K miles to put another one in. As to the oil smell, the tech did not see any leaks but noticed dirt and mud on my exhaust and thought that may be causing the smell. Now I just need to look at where I've been driving, I'll be a REAL LIFE Jedd Clampett, striking oil on dirt roads:burnout: Speed Safely! David

The dealer said it is the timing belt tensioner, and it will be under warranty:banana:. I am getting them to install a new belt while they are at it, $70 for another 50K+ miles, works for me:drunk: An extra day at the dealer, but I should get a quiet car back, and odor free.

I just dropped my wagon off (2.5l) at the dealer for the recall paint on the rear crossmember, and asked about a loud ticking on startup that slowly goes away. It sounds worse when cold, and as loud as a diesel. Reading older threads, it seemed like it was probably piston slap, and I just hate leaving my car in someone else's hands. With the recall, I had an reason to go. I had also noticed a slight oil smell when sitting with windows closed at a light or sign, especially after a run down the highway. The service manager said it sounded like the timing belt idler was loose and they sometimes have a slight oil leak. Anybody else heard or experienced this? I was starting to worry about a head gasket with all the take about the earlier models, but the service manager answered pretty quick without any apparent surprise. BTW, 55K miles, Mobil 1 since 8000 miles, changed every 4-5K miles with fresh filter (Carquest/Wix filter), no other problems since new. Thanks in advance