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Phoenixilva

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    Denver, CO
  • Vehicles
    1998 Subaru Legacy Outback w/1996 EJ22/5MT

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  1. Hey all, I have a 1998 Subaru Outback Limited with a 1996 EJ22 and 5MT (based on the serial from the 5MT, I'm assuming the engine came with the trans). I noticed an issue with the coolant level in the overflow and rest of the system after I did the timing belt last summer, but this issue may have existed before hand. I used an Aisin kit, with Aisin waterpump and Six Star thermostat, the t-stat looked identical to the one from Subaru, had the jiggle pin, and similar dimensions. When I have the climate control switch pushed over to heat, I notice that there will be a lot of coolant in the overflow after driving and that more often than not it will not return back into the radiator. After the car warms up or right after I've driven it, I've notice air bubbles in the overflow, usually a few small ones every so often. I replace the radiator cap with a new one from Subaru, and the problem has not really changed, although the level stayed closer to where it should be for a week or so after I replaced the cap, before continuing to do the same thing as before. Recently I've switched the climate control back over to cold and I've noticed the past few days that the coolant level in the overflow is where it should be after its cooled down. I have not noticed any leaking from the heater core, nor any of the heater hoses on the top of the engine in the engine bay. I have not noticed any leaking coolant externally at all. Coolant doesn't smell of exhaust either, and the car consiently gets 22-25mpg mixed in mountainous, high elevation Denver, CO. Closer to 22 in the winter, and 25 in the summer. Never once has it even considered overheating, even at high RPMs up hills, or at idle. Always sits consistently in the middle of the gauge once warmed up. Sometimes might actually cool off if idling for a bit if it's cooler out. Anyone have any ideas as to what to check? Upper and lower rad hoses are new, though I did not replace the bypass hose off the water pump when I did timing, but it looked serviceable and have not noticed leaks. Thanks in advance!
  2. Rockauto has Denso radiators for ~$75. They're an OE radiator manufacturer for many carmakers, might even be OE for Suabru. Should last a while.
  3. It's pretty well black, looks a tinge of amber here and there. I check all fluids about every couple of weeks and power steering fluid has been pretty steady since I added the Lucas stuff, so over 5 months.
  4. The switch was leaking before. I cleaned up most of the oil from that, but would that get oil on the driver's side of the block too? The oil is still wet looking, so something is still leaking oil all over the top of the block. I'm just wondering if most of my oil consumption (1 qt / 600 miles) is from a major gasket leak, like head gaskets. I doubt it's burning all of it, I would think I would see smoke, and oil residue on the hatch.
  5. I replaced that with a new Subaru switch a few months ago, used threebond on the threads. It's still dry in that area. Can oil leak from the short hose coming from the block to the PCV system? Valve in the intake is new and so is the hose from the valve to the tee (but not any of the other hoses). That would only account for oil on that side though, unless it travels to the drivers side of the block.
  6. Power steering pump seems likely, I added some of that Lucas ps conditioner stuff to it and it hasn't had a change in fluid level for months now. Though it does look like it was previously leaking. Eventually I will rebuild or replace the pump and reservoir o-ring and flush the system, as it appears Subaru uses ATF in their system (completely opposite of Honda's mineral oil on the Accord I owned previously). Valve covers appear to be leaking for sure on both sides, though more evident on the bottom of the driver side than the top. But it doesn't seem like a oil leak from there would find it's way under the intake. AFAIK the oil isn't under pressure at those gaskets. There is oil on the back and bottom of the oil pan. I did timing on it, so cam, crank seals and the o ring for the drivers cam support were replaced with Subaru seals, as well as resealing the oil pump and new subaru o-ring. It does look like the rear cam plug and support are leaking, not sure if the sep. plate is plastic as the engine was swapped in during someone elses ownership. Looks professional and carfax shows a local Subaru shop had the car after it didn't pass emissions several years ago. Doesn't leak on to the exhaust and the crossmember is fairly dry too. Do EJ22 headgaskets fail in that manner, external oil leaks? I remember reading the EJ22s have an oil passage on the top of the block to heads. I'm just wondering if there is somewhere else oil can leak from up there. Most EJ22 pictures I see are much cleaner on the top of the engine than mine.
  7. I have a '96 EJ22 and since I have owned it (March of this year) I have noticed that it has oil all over the top of the engine. Under the intake and on the driver side top as well. I have replaced the oil pressure sensor, about 1000 miles ago, however I still have wet, oil looking residue all over the top of the engine. There is also black stuff partially coating the lower bit of the intake runners on the passenger side and the oil residue is the worst on the passenger side. Is this indicative of headgasket failure on a EJ22? I was under the impression that they did not have that issue compared to the EJ25. Could it be something else leaking oil, PCV valve and hose was replaced, but the small bit of hose from the block to the tee was not, this couldn't be entirely responsible for the mess though? Engine loses a quart of oil ~600 miles but gets 26 mpg in a 98 Outback Limited running at 70 mph on the highway, about 50/50 mix hwy and city, with AC use. I have not noticed it burning oil, there is no oil residue in the exhaust pipe nor soot or residue on the bumper or tailgate. Anyone have any insight? Thanks in advance.
  8. The driver's mirror broke off on my 1998 Legacy Outback Limited, it took the two top screws attached to the black plastic piece with the mirror. The screw in the recessed hole is wanting to just strip and is apparently torqued a lot. I was curious if I could just remove the whole triangle piece the mirror attaches to and just have a recycler send me the replacement mirror with that triangle piece. Thanks in advance.
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