uniberp1

Thanks. I assumed it was the basket that got grooved, and needed to be replaced, but I don't see many references to that. I suppose they could be filed out. The noise is a pretty loud bang right under the center when it hits.

It only bangs when it's slipping on ice, and there is no ice now. I'm pretty sure it's the clutch basket in the tailshaft. I'v pulled the tranny before to seal the separator plate, so I know it's doable. Yes, the bet on a used transmission is sketchy. A wreck is best, like you said. I think I can go up to 2003 without a TCU change.

I get a pretty loud bang from the center when hard accelerating on ice. I assume the basket in the tailshaft is worn. 4EAT 200k miles. Engine is a 50k rebuild by https://www.ssisubiespecialists.com/. It's been incredibly strong. There are plenty of transmissions at the local pick-apart. I want to pick up the lowest mileage one. I mean. it's pretty much the same job right? The biggest pain as I remember is the preliminary removal of the exhaust and driveshaft, with all those associated corroded parts. I could remove the rear cover on the new just to check. It's almost worth the $150 to try it. (+$30 for diveshaft) https://luckyselfserve.com/inventory/?make=subaru&model=forester&listing_order=year&listing_orderby=ASC

Rear flange is rusted. The only performance gain I would bother with is increased gas mileage.

I've heard CARB cats are actually more free flowing. They cost quite a bit more. Are they better quality or just stamped with a CARB number? 08 Forester N/A Auto.

PCV valve. Are you burning oil?

From the symptoms, absolutely. Easing the throttle allows the clutch plates to slip out of the grooves and engage. I'd really like to get under it and take out the tailhousing but it's subzero now.

What is this "Knowledge Base Troubleshooting system" you mention? The Internet?

Found the broken wire. it. Another thread elsewhere (https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2005-automatic-trans-issue-at-temp-flashing-awd-light-starts-flashing-solved.815228/) helped. Exact same thing here, as found and stripped back. Like I said, it's stupid.

Yep, the lights came back on. The procedures does not work. 2008 Forester is not CANbus. Started in 09. I'm betting on broke wire. Will check tomorrow.

I think maybe an offroad vehicle should not have a swaybar. Allows greater independent movement without.

Maybe it's the outside temperature. It was warmer today after a week in the 20s. 2.5 NA 2008 Forester 4EAT 155k. The AT Temp would start flashing and stay flashing until the car was restarted. Then a few days later the AWD light started flashing. No weird shifting, no torque bind, downshifting, upshifting, everything normal. Fluids clean and normal. Air filter clean. Charged the battery, just in case, no difference. The AT light would start flashing 1 block down the road, followed by the AWD light. Checked any grounds I could find. Unplugged and reseated TCM connectors. Disconnected the battery for 1 hour, and reconnected it. Lights gone and stayed off after 50 miles. Stupid lights.

I think the car rides more smoothly without them, since the shock is not transmitted to the other wheel. Thoughts on safety, alignment, tire wear. Not concerned with handling; I handle far more primitive vehicles. Thanks.

I just wanted to prove I would not be defeated by a rust frozen longbolt. I used a cutoff wheel to slice the bolt between the knuckle and the control arms, and pressed out the bushings with the stub intact, an pressed in new bushings using a bearing press. I bought the whole knuckle/bearing/hub/backerplate from RA . This sat in a corner for months, just annoying me. I tackled it today freehand using a benchtop drillpress and 1/8 and 3/8 bits. I won't do it again. This part of this generation of Subarus stinks.

They fail because users treat them like cast-iron V6's.