MilesTolle

Hope someone can help me... I need to change a TPMS sensor due to Walmart must of cracked the one that is on it because now the light flashes off and on at dash. The thing is on this car unlike videos I have watched to try and find out, My Subaru does not have the settings button on left side of steering wheel to get to the settings for the tire pressure on all four wheels.... Does anyone have a ideal of how you do this on this type of car? I do know that you have to use a TPMS relearn tool to take around to all four wheels but how can I put the car into test mode for them so that It will work ? vin: JF1GPAP68G8233944 2016 Subaru Impreza (2.0i Sport Premium PZEV) 2016 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Premium AWD

Thank you Numbchux ... and Imdew If you have one to sale do you use pay pal.. that is the only way I purchase online because it is safer to do so.... it is on the drivers side the small round hole is where it goes into....

I cannot find this at a local auto parts so I will have to purchase it from a Dealership. none of the People so far at a Dealership Online could tell me which part number was for the one I needed to purchase... I have a 1993 Subaru legacy 2.2 automatic, awd... VIN: JF1BC6532PH603118 I need to purchase the left side fuel sending unit , which is drivers side rear... and it is also the fuel sending unit that Does not have a Fuel Pump on it..... it is the round metal smaller one that is just a sending unit... Does anyone know what part number this would be from the Dealership so I can buy the right one... They already told me if I ordered one even if it did not fit i could not return it... So sure need to be sure i get the right one.. I found the one online it looks like but i cannot make out the part number: And i may even have a hard time finding it from a Dealership where Car is so old Thanks

I sure have had bad luck so far with this car. All i had planned on doing was taking the transfer case off and changing the clutch pack in it and solenoid.... when no one sold the clutch pack i just put in the new solenoid hoping that would help on sharp cuts with the rear end... The wire as i said came apart from the connector coming out of the transmission side, but I thought I had done a good job of solidering it back together, but now I wonder if the wire is getting contact with the solenoid or not...and there is no way to no for sure unless i take it all apart again.... surely the new solenoid i bought from a subaru dealer online is not bad. I wish now i had left it alone, it grabbed when i cut into a parking place, but now it screams and grabs, and the fuse does not help at all now to switch it into fwd and no fwd light showing up on the dash when using a fuse..... I will check out things you all told me on here as soon as i can. thanks +U would no

would you have a photo of where the wires is located at on the drivers side engine bay? and what they look like and also if the wire that connects to the solenoid came loose from the solenoid would that keep the fwd light from coming on and also make binding worse in deep cuts?

so i can slice into the wire for the solenoid without taking the transfer case off to get power to the solenoid? It has to be I would think the wire came loose when i reconnected it or the solenoid is bad and i bought the solenoid from subaru dealership.... Does the solenoid just make the fwd work with fuse? I thought it has someting to do with binding in sharp turns to?

after putting in a new Duty C solenoid the light on the dash does not come on when i put a fuse in for fwd like it did before. and when i test drive it , it was worse then ever doing sharp turns made a whinning noise in the rear end. before i change it when i did sharp turns it felt like binding, so i took the transfer case off and changed the duty C solenoid, I could not change the clutch pack they discontinued the one's that fit my 1993 Subaru Legacy Automatic 2.2 awd.... but they looked ok anyways nothing cracked or burnt.... So now i have to figure out why it is worse then ever after changing the solenoid and that wire that connected to it breaking upon pulling it apart.

Just to know for sure, is it correc that the Duty C solenoid is not working if when you put a fuse in to use fwd the light does not come on the dash for it? if so is there a way to test all is working fine before i go though all the trouble of bolting in the transfer case just to find out nothing is working right, this will make three times now that i have taken it back a part..... I bought a new Duty C solenoid, but i accidentlyi pulled the wire lose from the connector that comes out of the transmission, but i put it back in there and even solidered it in place and then turned key on to see if power came though to the connector and it did.. But either the wire came part when i put it back together again or the solenoid i bought is not working right? before i did all this the fwd would come on the dash when i put in a fuse for it... but now i test drove it and no fwd light on dash and makes a terrilbe noise doing donuts in parking lot if i were to fix the wiring if thats the problem can i put the transfer case close enough to transmission then connect the wire then turn on key to run to see if fwd light comes on are will that make the gears in it come out ?\ Please advise i sure could use some assistance to know for sure... Thanks

Here is a photo of the ones i want to change if i can find them is these the drive plates or driven plates? and if i can get them do i have to order them separately or can I get them as a complete set? thank you for helping me I cannot get the dealership to help me at all... called wallace subaru and the guy was so hateful to me. and said they were obsolete... the ones i hope to get is marked they are sort of a bronze color

oh thank you so much that helped a lot heartless... One more thing I reckon i found the transmission solenoid that will work with car finally but since i have it tore down I would like to change the clutch plates as a set also... but for the life of me when i look up 1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2 awd sedan automatic transmission.... I can only find them with four clutch plates as a set and mine has 5 plates in it. Would you no where i could find the set with 5 pieces instead of 4? so far in finding five it is from 2005 to 2011... I sure would appreciate it I have spent all day trying to find them .. thanks

the reason this is hard for me is cause i am just now getting over the virus that is going around. so i am still having a hard time concentrating on what to get... I just need to know for sure which of the category posted i am suppose to chose out of them all.. and where can i get the clutch pack as a set .. and where can i get the solenoid and anything else needed cause so far i have not been able to find it all..... thanks

what part do i sand down please? thank you

i never heard it called a basket before? is the the piece the clutch pack goes into? and I am having a heck of a time finding the clutch pack i thought you could purchase it as a kit but so far i found nothing.

I loaded image here... is the one i marked in red the piston and the one in blue the bearings? and the whole piece it is called a basket? I have done every type of job to a subaru that one can think but this, so this is new to me.. and based on that web site you gave me i need to make sure the o rings are ok, and there is no cracks in the splined shafts... or basket? would i need to change that piston? that is marked in red on the photo... and if so is there just one to change? and do you no what the name of it would be if i ordered it? And a base is a sedan? I am sorry i am so dumb i been sick and can still hardly think right... I also cannot find any place other then subaru websites that sale this stuff... If you no of a place and if they take paypal as a option of payment I sure would appreciate knowing where to go online to search for parts.... Thank you

I am sorry took me so long to get back, I have the transfer case apart... And so i am thinking of just going ahead and getting a new Duty-C and clutch packs... What do u mean by a clutch pack basket? I also thought if you put the fuse in and u know longer got binding it mean's that either the solenoid is bad or clutch packs.... Also i want to make sure since I have this off to change what is needed... So do you all suggest changing solenoid? clutch packs? and maybe what ever the basket is? On a video but it was for a newer car he also changed what he called two pistons, one he called a balance piston and I forgot what he called the other one, but mine of course is a older car so not sure if it has both in it are not? I would like to just make sure I change what could be the problem before i put it all together and it does not even help the car. Most things I am going to have to purchase off a Subaru website.. My car is a 1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2 awd. automatic transmission sedan it comes to a catagory that ask this question before you can move ahead to look for parts. Please excuse me for being stupid but I am not sure which one to pick, I think it is the 4.L Grade LS...... does anyone know for sure which one i should pick..lol 2. L GRADE : BASE 2. L GRADE : LS 2. L GRADE : TURBO 2. L LENGTH 2. L LIMITED SLIP DIFFERRENTIAL 4. L GRADE : L/RHD 4. L GRADE : LS 4. L GRADE : TURBO 4. L LENGTH 4. L LIMITED SLIP DIFFERRENTIAL

I am having to order some parts from a subaru dealer online but it ask me this 2. L GRADE : BASE 2. L GRADE : LS 2. L GRADE : TURBO 2. L LENGTH 2. L LIMITED SLIP DIFFERRENTIAL 4. L GRADE : L/RHD 4. L GRADE : LS 4. L GRADE : TURBO 4. L LENGTH 4. L LIMITED SLIP DIFFERRENTIAL I cannot think of which it could be it is in the selection you have to pick before you can order my vin number is JF1BC6532PH603118 could someone tell me which one i should pick from the list so that I can begin ordering the parts i need thank you

Well got one problem fixed on check engine light.. so now back with something else I been meaning to deal with for a while now.... And hopefully u all can give me your thoughts on this issue. 1993 subaru legacy awd 2.2 engine... automatic..... when i drive it the car is fine, but lets say i go into a parking lot and start to part into a parking space to where i have to cut wheel deep, either way i turn left or right, the rear wheels feel like they are locked down.... My thoughts is transmission control solenoid, clutch pack,.... Maybe not even both but just Solenoid. Any ideals of how i can determine for sure ?

Thank you all for the information i appreciate it.. will give all this a go

I think today I am going to try to bake it like you suggested doing... is there also anywhere i can find online that explains how to install a link like you mentioned as well? and if i have to replace some of the caps where do i purchase new ones at? Thank you

I no it has to do something with the ECU picking up codes... What i did was I wanted to see if i disconnected something like the throttle sensor if the engine light would come on with it unplugged... So i did that and then started the car in around two seconds the engine light did come on with that one unplugged, but then you can restart the car and the check engine like is no longer on. So that would mean the trouble code is still in the ECU for the sensor, but I would not no if there was a code if engine started again since engine light is now off... So what i did was then with engine off i plugged back in the black connector and the engine light was not on... so then i turned engine off and plugged in also the other black connector that is the one that makes the engine light blink to read codes... so turned engine to run and engine light started blinking.. read codes and it picked up the throttle sensor i had unplugged. so then cleared the trouble code from the ecu by disconnecting the negative cable for a while, then plugged back in , unplugged the one connector that is black that reads the codes, but left the other black one plugged in.... engine light on again and blinking over and over instead of staying off. So that one black one on the back side of the wiring is apparently the one that makes the engine light come on when it picks up something wrong with a sensor or something. and keeps it on till problem is fixed. Just thought someone might be interested in what that one is for if you want tomorrow i can take a photo of the two different ones and show you what i mean...

yep the green is on the left side of dash under steering wheel which is used to test the sensors when driving the car a short period of time to see if it picks up anything wrong... then unplug when done.... the set of black connectors on the right side under the dash that are visibly in front is used to test for codes when check engine light comes on and stays on.. then when reading codes unplug and leave unplugged...... What i found is another one identical in looks behind that black one.... and i unplugged it and the check engine light went off flashing.... but today i will see if it is for sending the signal of a bad sensor to the ECU and then check engine light comes on to let me know.... that is what i think its for and has to remain plugged up if so to be able to perform that duty, but today i will see when i unplug a sensor with it unplugged if it will still cause the check engine light to come on when unplugging a sensor to see..

I am not positive though that the way I had to do it is right, cause the two black connectors I unhooked is right behind the same identical black connectors that is used to connect when reading the code...... The two i unhooked to get the check engine light to go off has been plugged in since owning the car and had no problem like this ever happen before The Green connectors usually is what makes the check engine light keep flashing over and over.. but they are unplugged, and it kept flashing... the two black connectors used to connect together that reads the memory codes stored in the ECU when something goes wrong is also unplugged, and just plugged in when trying to see if it has a trouble code... but even it unhooked the engine light kept flashing... SO around the wearing on that side i just kept unconnecting things to see if check engine light would go off... and finally the one wired connector that looks again identical to the black connectors used to read code, I unplugged it and engine light stop blinking, but in doing so I am not sure I am going to test it to see for sure, but now I think if you get a problem with a sensor the check engine light will not come on to let you no the ECU stored a code to check to see what the problem is.. I do no when you turn car to run the engine light appears and then goes out when you start the car... But again going to unplug a sensor just to see if engine light will come on when it picks up something wrong.. If anything its a fix for now then in a couple weeks i will plug that one back in to see if the ECU reset itself to stop blinking the check engine light. as for the seat belt I still am just going to try another one of those selt belt warning monitors or what ever you call it... Right now if i plug in the black connectors that is used to read the codes the seat belt light stops blinking but if i unplug that one the seat belt light keeps flashing over and over... Its a headache but someone has to have the headache..lol

I bought it from A1 Auto parts online, and read the reviews from others who had bought the same one and they had all positive things to say about the part. And it fixed the car as far as running it now runs great, when the Maf sensor was bad it would drive a few feet then die.. And did that over and over. But now even in test driving it for two miles so far it runs like it did before which is great. Also this car is in great shape, I have maintained it from day one of owning it.. If drove no one would think it was that old.... Today i was checking out the connectors under the dash.... And found there is another black connector behind the black connector used to get trouble codes..... That one is suppose to stay plugged in the one behind but I unplugged it today to just see what would happen and when i did the check engine light went off and stopped flashing.... I think that one picks up sensors and other stuff and sends it to the ECU and then when it reaches the ECU it receives the problem and sets a trouble code in return causes the check engine light to come on and stay on until problem fixed. So for now i guess I will leave that one unplugged then in a couple weeks plug it back in to see if maybe the ECU reset itself to where it stops blinking. As for the seat belt warning light flashing, I reckon i am going to try another one of those seat belt relay things in the drivers side trunk , even though the belts still retract and so forth , maybe there is still something in it making the seat belt warning light flash, I no if i unplug that box the light stops flashing but of course the belts no longer automatically work.. when opening and closing door. So guess I will see how that goes.. Thanks

Thanks I checked for other codes by plugging in the black connector but when its constantly flashing then it will not work to pick up a trouble code.. .. So what i did was i unplugged a sensor then started car and when the ECU picked up that sensor the check engine then would remain on... SO then i cut car off plugged back in sensor, then plugged back in the black connector under dash that is used to read trouble codes, and then turn key on and it would flash codes to let me know it picked up that sensor.... So then once it did that I unplugged the black connector.... when car was not on and then unplugged battery for up to 30 min... Once connecting battery again i turned key to on, and once again check engine light flashing over and over, and no codes stored in it now cause check engine light was not remaining on, but flashing over and over instead. So it seems that when you clear the trouble codes from the ECU it causes the check engine light to flash over and over instead of remaining off...... And still even the seat belt warning light is flashing off and on to..... Hard to believe this happen just cause of having a Maf sensor go bad, then buy new one, clear the code the ECU picked up for it being bad, and then Now i have a check engine light laughing at me and a seat belt warning light laughing at me..lol

I no this is a old post but I seen that this person was having the same problem I am so not sure if 2.5GL is still a member of this forum, but heck worth a shot.... the connector told him to check it is not the black connector that you plug in to check trouble codes is it?