MilesTolle

Hi , i cleaned all the grounds i could find and tightened them down again, but did not help. its weird I can plug in the black connector that checks codes under drivers side dash and the seat belt light goes off then , but according to all I have read on it , it is not suppose to stay connected unless you are checking for trouble codes, It was not connected before the map sensor went bad I know that for sure. But even doing that the check engine still flashes, I can also plug up the green connector on the drivers side under dash that checks for problems when driving car , it makes the fan's and other things cycle. i plug it in with engine off... then i press the gas pedal to the floor, then half way out and then let it go, and i start the car and as long as you are just in park the check engine stays off, but as soon as you put it in drive and move a few inches the check engine comes back on and starts flashing... I no there is no trouble code because then it will stay on solid without flashing... cause i tested that to be sure. The Clifton manual.... says to start the car and then plug in the black connector and the green connector and it is suppose to clear the codes, that does not sound right to me though, besides there is no trouble codes in the computer. I am not stressed out though, what you said made since its just check engine lights, no use letting that get to me i always figure it out sooner or later...lol If you have any other advise on what i can do please let me know...... I still am thinking about rather to bake the computer as you said, at this point I may try that tomorrow... Thank you very much

Thank you all for responding i sure appreciate it... Tomorrow i will clean all the grounds i find for the car, at this point anything is worth a shot. I am not sure how to go about doing this, I have never done anything like this before. baking the ECM circuit board in the oven after replacing any obviously bad caps, etc. Reflow the solder like the original Xbox boards. I guess it is required to take the board out of the casing to do it? Maybe i can find a video on it in case i need to try that also... I wish i could fix this thing though it has stressed me out so bad that I just now got home from the ER , Not sure if stress, heat..etc.... caused me to break out in hives, and make my mouth swell and feel numb or not. But i had blood work done and they seem to think its just a reaction to something.. Anyways I will check that out tomorrow and get back to you all, Again thank you all for Responding it sure is much appreciated.

This might be a long post but so you will no what is going on, and what I have done, maybe that will be helpful to those who are kind enough to respond. I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2 Automatic. A few days back when i needed to go to the store, the car died on me server times but would start back up for a while then die again, but i made it hope with it running and dieing. I then did as I know how for these models... the check engine came on and stayed on, so i knew there was a problem and the Computer had picked up the trouble code for said problem. So when I got home I connected the black connector under the drivers dash, and got the code for the maf sensor which that was my guess trying to get home that day. I then bought a new Maf sensor from A 1 auto online, I put it on and car no longer stalled or stumbled.... All seemed to be well. I then as i had in the past with this car I left the black connector connected and car on run but not started. then I unhooked the battery cables, let it set for an hour, then when i went to check if engine light was off.... the code was gone for map sensor.. but the check engine and the seat belt warning light was flashing off and on. So then i got the book down and it said to hook both the black connectors and the green connectors together, then turn on car but not start it, then hold gas pedal to the floor then half way then let the gas pedal go. then start the car and drive it and engine light would be gone That did not work... So then i read where you are suppose to start the car with both unhooked and then while engine is running hook both up the green and the black connectors... that did NOT work I then let car set over night with battery disconnected.. That did not work I then took computer out of car , unhooked battery cables, took connectors off the computer and let set for another hour... That did not work so since this car cannot pick up trouble codes for ignition, I went today and bought a new ignition coil pack, plug wires, plugs..... That did NOT work 103.00 for nothing. I am at the end of my rope I have cleared this trouble code in the past and never had this happen before, and engine light went out after the computer was cleared of the trouble code But now I have as I said a check engine constantly flashing..... and a seat belt warning light constantly flashing both black and green connectors are suppose to remain unhooked unless testing it, so that is not what is causing it. Anyone no of what is causing this , and what i can try in fixing it I sure would appreciate help... Thank you

does the drum that the clutch plates come as one item to purchase? It seems to do ok with the FWD fuse placed in it, but will do some more testing to make sure and get back with you all... Thanks

I am late getting back to everyone, but been really busy, The torque binding still seems to be present in the rear it seems like the passenger side rear tire is like a stuck caliper when turning into a hard curve like a parking place are drive way when having to make that sharp cut into it. I have read where a Transmission Solenoid can cause this problem. It is suppose to be inside the casing behind the transmission pan at the rear of the transmission at the differential part of transmission. And could also be the clutch bands inside there as well I think you call them. Does anyone know for sure if a 1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2 sedan awd, automatic.. would have these in that casing before I go though all the trouble of trying to take that casing off, the job does not seem to hard to do, the pricing I am not sure yet.... The tires seems to be the same treading though, and same amount of air in each tire. So I am leaning in that direction once I find out for sure if this car has those in the casing part... thanks

Thanks I guess I will no more as i drive it and thanks for the information heartless cause I did not know to do that in case of a flat and having to use a donut tire. And I hope that is all it was is low air pressure in one tire, time will tell.

I drove it to a church parking lot and went around in circles both ways and stopped and turned into parking spots on each side to see if torque binding happened. I did notice before I tested it that one rear tire was low on air pressure it showed it only had 15 lbs of pressure in it, while the other three had 40 lbs of pressure, would that cause torque binding if a tire was that low of air?

I will put the fuse back and and test it for a while to see if it happens when switching it over to FWD... Then let you all know, here lately its been one thing after the other with this car.

I have noticed since I been driving my 1993 subaru legacy 2.2 automatic awd in the summer that when I turn sharply like into a parking space it feels like the back wheels are locked up it is fine in driving straight are backwards is this normal... I thought about putting in the fuse that turns it into a Front wheel drive for the summer time but not sure if that would cause problems if doing so... I have not tested it yet to see if it does it if putting in the fuse for front wheel drive are not though .... But anyways it is like wheels grab in the rear wheels when turning really sharp.... Thanks

My problem was that green box

is it normal for some air noise to come out of the dip stick after you have let the car run for a while? and check the oil when car is running? just to see if it makes that noise of course, cause i never check the oil level with car running, it is just to test to see if i hear air coming out of it

I guess it was the pcv valve, never had one to do that before, the old one after taking it off i could hear it rattle inside when shaking it that usually means its ok and not stuck, got me... but that seems to of helped it I am not hearing that noise now, but when i remove the oil dip stick when letting the car idle for around 5 minutes i can hear air coming out of it still yet maybe its suppose to be so much that goes into the engine I am not sure... But at least so far it is not such a large amount that its causing the air to have to come out of the rear main oil seal to make that noise...... This sure is a new one on me never seen that happen before.

I do remember that a while back I had replaced the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve.. so I had to take off the intake hose and some other hoses connected around the intake hose and along side the idle air control valve to replace them.. What you all are saying does make since and I am picking up another pcv tomorrow, and also going to check all hoses to make sure they are on correctly I will let you all know, thank you all so much

I use castrol synthetic have used it from day one of owning the car 10w-30 and I change oil twice a year and only drive the car to doctors and to get gas for mowing......... I will check the pcv and breather tomorrow..... I do thank you it was kind of you to respond.... I had a guy that came by today that works on cars, that said he believed it was the head gasket causing air to get into the engine like that , I have not heard of that before in a blown head gasket usually car overheats I thought, Never heard of tons of air getting into engine to make that noise, then when I pull the dip stick out air comes out of the dip stick holder and noise stops..... have you heard of a head gasket causing that sort of problem where air builds up in the engine and causes the rear main seal to squeak, then if you pull up the oil dip stick you can hear the air come out hard and the noise stops

well its not the torque converter after all, somewhere air is not getting out of the engine and its causing it to have to come though probable the rear main seal, air is building up inside the engine as you start the car and let it run for a few, then if you pull the oil dip stick a big sound of air comes out of the dip stick holder and the noise stops, then put back the dip stick when it builds up air again in the engine in like one minute the noise starts again till you pull up the oil dip stick again...........Anyone Know why air is building up inside the engine? When I drained the oil pan you should of seen it come out of it like a flood cause of the air inside the engine.

U think it could be the torque converter then?

Hi thank you for responding I checked them a couple days ago I think it was, and the bolts were tight I tried to tighten them a bit more though. I could not see nothing wrong as well as I turned the engine over to view the flex plate.

I am trying to figure out where this noise is coming from, I am leaning toward the torque converter being the problem, but not 100 present sure and it is a lot of work to remove the transmission just to be wrong once placing in a new torque converter, So would like to get everyone's thoughts and will add a video if after I am done writing this up it allow's me to. Here is some information on the car, as well what I have already tried and done. 1993 Subaru Legacy ls awd automatic transmission 2.2 engine... Here is things I thought it was.... replaced power steering belt, replaced power steering assembly... replaced rack and pinion... even took out the rack completely and took off belt to see if I still heard the noise and I did. The noise is coming if you are under the car really strong noise when it does it where the engine and transmission connect together..... Usually after starting up the car if i put the car in drive or reverse the noise starts without even moving forward or reverse just setting in place holding brake.... I can even sometimes get it to make the noise when pumping the brakes over and over and the noise will start. once it starts making that noise if you are in drive or reverse and then put back to neutral or park it will make the noise for a while then gradually stop after a while..... I seen a couple videos with the similar noise and they claimed they had to put grease on the real main oil seal and it fixed there problem... I was even going to try that but unlike there car I cannot get to my rear main oil seal by dropping the oil pan and seeing at least some of the seal.... so there is no way i can try that method by just taking off the oil pan to put some grease on oil seal I have never heard this type of noise before on a car so I am unsure of what the problem is and like I said its a big job now for me at the age of 55 to lay on hard ground in a carport to remove the transmission to replace the converter. So at least before I attempt to do that sort of work again I would like to be sure if possible that it is the converter making that noise..... So please if you have a thought on this please let me know Thank you.... 1_0.mp4