StallonePanerai

If I can get to the lifters is it a good idea to replace them? They are cheap from Rockauto. I wasn’t sure if I can replace them and leave the existing cam alone. I don’t want to damage a cam lobe or something.

Thanks Dave. I didn’t think there was a easy way. I’m probably over complicating things. I’ll inspect the push rods to make sure they are clean and good. I didn’t really see a lot of oil when I removed the valve covers. I thought it would pour out since the engine is flat.

I just purchased the switch from rock auto! Thank you for your time.

For some reason I couldn’t just add to my original post on lifter and valve noise. My car is at a mechanic who is also a relative of mine. 1984 brat 1.8 ea81. We adjusted the valves intake .010 and exhaust .014. Also set the timing to 8 which was at 4. Since the car is there and I have access to a lift I want to inspect the push rods and lifters. Are the lifters easy to get to for inspection? I also want to purchase a oil sending unit since mine is leaking. I called Napa and they didn’t have one. Should that be a easy part to source? Sorry for so many questions I’m just trying to learn as I go. I’m familiar with cars but this 1.8 is out of my norm...

Hey guys...I would like to install a aftermarket oil pressure gauge so I can always be certain of the correct pressure and have piece of mind. Does anyone recommend a gauge that will be a direct fit? I have been searching forums but are old without pics, I would like to see how to connect the new gauge to the oil pump Can someone provide a pic and the procedure. Also living in the northeast with cold winters is it normal when I start the car the RPM’s will get higher and higher as it warms up? I need to tap my foot on the pedal after a few mins to lower the RPM’s. Is this normal for the oil to flow at the correct rate? Should the car warm up with low RPM or higher RPM? Thanks in advance!

Ok thank you! I will read up on this! Today I drained the 20-50 engine oil. Used 3qts of 10-40 and 1qt of ATF and went on a 25 drive. Drained it and looked pretty clean. Installed 10-40 and a new filter. Seems like the tapping is not as loud. I’m still going to check the valve clearances

Hi Everyone! Before I start...I know, I know.... there are a ton of threads about this. I’m a little confused so I thought I would post here for forum member help. My car is a 84 brat, manual trans, EA81 motor. Not sure if it is the original motor but the block says EA81. I’m hearing the annoying valve tap. It gets worse as the RPM’s increase. I have only had this car about 6 months. The odometer says 105k but I don’t know if that’s true. I changed the oil with 20/50 Castro’s GTX. I’m thinking it’s to heavy and will change to 10/30 next time. Where is the best place for a tutorial on how to adjust the valves? From what I read it seems pretty easy and common. I’m thinking of doing it myself since I have all the tools, but I need a step by step tutorial. Or should I pay the dealer or a reputable mechanic? I get nervous because these cars are not like the newer cars today. Old school mechanics are hard to find nowadays Also how can I tell what EA81 motor I have for sure? I don’t see the gold sticker on the valve cover but after 35 years it probably fell off. The car is in excellent shape. Clean and rust free. It appears to be well taken care of. Runs strong and no signs of any other problems besides the engine tapping. Thank you in advance! Corey

Excellent news! I needed to make a quick decision buying it and took a gamble. I know they are hard to find. Glad I took a leap of faith! Thank you to everyone here, couldn’t do it without you!

I just purchased the pump. I’ll have to wait and see if it matches up to the pump I have on the car now. If it is the wrong one how will I know? Will it fit and bolt on the engine block either way?

Sorry to be a pain but time is running out. Can someone please chime in to confirm this will fit my 84 EA81? Thank you in advance!

Thank you for the reply. The oil pump I found is for a 1.6 and 1.8 OHV. I will buy it in hopes that it is compatible with my 84 EA81 brat. Here are some pics. Any thoughts

I figured I would start a new thread in hopes to learn more about what motor I have in my 1984 brat. I know it’s a EA81 motor. Not sure if it’s the original motor though. How can I tell if it’s a OHV or a OHC motor? Is there anyway from engine block markings to see if the motor is original for my car?

I found someone selling a oil pump for a 1.6 and 1.8 OHV. Is a 1984 brat EA81 engine a OHV or a overhead cam engine? How can I tell what my car is just to make sure that’s the engine that’s in the car now?

I found a Melling M-100 oil pump. Some websites say it will fit the EA81 1.8 but others only say it will fit the 1.4 and 1.6. Any thoughts?

I do not have a replacement pump. I called Napa today and they don’t have a source for them. I didn’t see any on EBay either. Can someone let me know where I can purchase one?

I just bought the car so I don’t really know the history. I have been reading up on these and people are saying they don’t last much past 100k. I was only doing it as a precaution. The pump is not leaking. I just figured replace it. But it seems it could be a real PITA getting out. Maybe I should just leave it?????

I’m about to tackle replacing my oil pump with a new unit as a precaution on my 84 brat. I have been reading horror stories of the pumps breaking off leaving parts in the block. I have been searching for videos and pics of how to do it but I cannot find any anywhere. Can anyone help? Should I use an aftermarket pump or does the dealer still sell them?

No I didn’t get it fixed. I really haven’t messed with it. It doesn’t do it all the time only once in a while. I was just hoping it was a clutch pedal adjustment and not a major tranny issue

I will check the bushings. Is it easier to check from underneath the car? I will also change the trans lubricant. Who knows how old it is.

Sometimes when I drive my 84 brat it gets stuck in 4th gear. It takes a lot of strength to pop it out. Sometimes 2 hands. This only happens in 4th gear and not all the time. Seems the longer it’s in 4th gear is when it happens. I just bought the car so I don’t know if this was happening for awhile. I did adjust the clutch so it grabs a little higher. When I bought it the clutch would grab instantly, so I made it higher. The throw out bearing is not riding on the pressure plate, only makes contact when the clutch pedal is pressed. Could it be my pedal needs to be adjusted or something in the trans?

Im Sure That’s my normal range than. The fan switch will do its job. Thank you!

Please see the attached picture. As you can see the needle is slightly above the line. Right where the needle is in this picture is when the cooling fans come on. And they will shut off when the needle is on the line right below. Is this normal? I thought the fans should come on a little earlier.... this is with the new radiator. I thought anything over the 2nd line is running hot?

Found the problem today after doing tons of trial and error. All my wires, fuses, fan switch are all good. My brand new radiator even has clean ground contacts with an extra ground wire. The problem is the threaded busing that is soldered to the radiator where the fan switch screws into doesn’t allow enough ground because of the solder for the fan switch to be grounded. I’m even using a copper washer not the rubber o-ring. I’m also not using any sealant or Teflon tape. So it’s a clean mating surface.This is crazy. The radiator I am using is a Spectra. I’m changing to a APDI brand if that has the same issue I guess I will need to buy a OEM from the dealer..... any thoughts or modifications?

The switch has 1 terminal on it. I do have a multimeter. Does the positive go on the plug terminal and the negative on the outside case? Should I check ohms when heating up with a torch? Can someone explain this procedure in depth? I watch a few YouTube videos but still a little confused. Thanks

Hey everyone Today I replaced the radiator and thermostat in my 84 brat. I re-used the original fan switch. When I put everything back together the cooling fan won’t come on. To be honest I’m not sure if it came on before I put the new radiator in. I just got the car. I did some testing. I unplugged the fan and jumped the wires and the fan came on. Then I unplugged the single yellow connector on the radiator fan switch. I jumped that to ground and the fans came right on. So I thought my radiator might not be grounded enough. I unbolted it and scuffed the paint off the mounting locations. I even took a 1/8” narrow wire brush and cleaned the inside threads of the bolt holes. I also cleaned the little battery ground cable from body to radiator. Than I added a secondary ground strap directly from the radiator to the negative battery cable. Than I removed the fan switch from the radiator and cleaned it up on the wire wheel. I also cleaned the copper gasket. I assembled everything let the car warm up and the cooling fan won’t come on. I am not using and Teflon tape or anything on the fan switch, just the copper gasket. So it should be grounded ok. If I switch the climate selector on the dash to A/C or Defrost the other fan works fine. Since my grounding points are all clean tight and good, and I have power to the fan when jumped can the culprit be the fan switch? That’s the last thing left since everything I mentioned above checked out right? I boiled the fan switch pulled it out of the water and hold it to my ear and when it cools down I hear it click inside. But maybe the clicking doesn’t mean it’s working. I went to Napa for a new switch but won’t be in until Tuesday. Any thoughts????