Bigsky
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Posts posted by Bigsky
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17 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
No special tools are needed, but a noob that’s never held a wrench before would certainty get frustrated.
remove radiator fans, but not the radiator. Radiator gives you more room and you’re already puking coolant. and less chance of damage if you’re a first timer or tend to go crazy. But it’s easy to do without pulling the radiator so I never do it.Loosening the crank bolt is one of the trickier parts. the engine turns over so you gotta stop it form turning. If it’s an automatic, Place a large screwdriver in the bellhops if access cover through one of the 4 rectangular holes in the flex plate. Hold that with one hand while loosening the 22mm crank bolt.
if it’s a manual - put it in gear, have someone smash the brake pedal and smack a long breaker bar fast with a hammer = ghetto impact wrench.
or place breaker against frame rail and crank engine for one second to use the starter to loosen the bolt. Be careful but it worms.
or if you can weld or can hack things - make your own pulley holder. Just need a king stout metal object with rods that insert into the empty holes in the crank pulley and leaves space for a socket wrench.
turn the cams with a 10mm 6 point socket.
paper water pump gaskets routinely leak - would be no surprise to see a paper aftermarket gasket in there. Get a Subaru OEM gasket and install it clean and dry. I have some extras I could mail you one for whatever Subaru charges.
if you’re trying to save a dime you could just try to replace the gasket and not the pump. But I’d be hesitant and worried that maybe it is the pump and you can’t tell if it’s coming from the weep hole or not. I’d replace the pump with Subaru OEM but I understand circumstances dictate otherwise sometimes. If it’s an OEM pump just leave it and replace the gasket. They fail but not often enough I’d be worried about it in a situation you’re describing.
Just for scope - ive changed those belts in 45 minutes before. They’re easy. You’ll take longer first time just like I take forever when I work on something non-Subaru. But it’s not bad. Pump is another hour to remove and mainly clean surfaces. Have good scrub pads ready for aggressive cleaning.
Holy cow thank you very much. Ill order the parts i need then
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Thank you both. I have replaced the thermostat already but the hoses and the actual pump have not been as of yet. This pic is what has me spooked, it seems to say alot without really saying anything at all
1 hour ago, lmdew said:Yep lots of info out there. Easy to do, just take your time. Check out you tube has many videos that show timing belt replacement.
Since you have to drain the coolant anyway, may as well pull the radiator and fans. More room to work.
1 hour ago, moosens said:And there is no way around removing the belt and thereby needing to reset the tensioner afterward. You’re in it good but don’t sweat it. Lots of us are NOT mechanics but do most of our own wrenching. Others did it , you can too.
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Thank you for the tips. In order to do the timing belt do i need a timing light or whatever? And some said i need a special tool to hold the cam shaft in place and such as well
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So the gasket around the water pump seems to of gone out. At first it was a slight leak. Then last night it gave up the ghost and is now leaking even when the car is cooled, i poured some coolant in and it started dripping out. The pump is working fine but the gasket seems to be gone in it. So time to replace both. My usdm impreza booklet as well as the chilton seem to be giving me different info. Its a cheap car so i cant afford paying a shop to do it for me.
Prior to this i tried adding Gasp... K seal to it, the next day it started over heating quicker then without the k seal. So i flushed the system and it was good another few days. Until like i said last night when it pissed all over my driveway.
What is the easiest way to get to this damn pump? Most places say i gotta remove the fans , radiator, timing belt, then some say the tensioner, cam shaft angle sensor left side camshaft pully and left side rear timing belt..... holy hell is there not an easier way?
Is there a better way to use the stop leak without it gunking up the system? At my wits end with this car. And at most i only drive it 4 miles or 10 at the most if its grocery day. Can i just dump water in it before driving to hold me over a bit longer?
Any and all help is appreciated. As most of my friends dont know anything about subarus. Thank you
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I fixed the windshield wipers using the part listed above. I followed instructions in a service manual for my car, but not the air bag light is on, and remains on... how do i fix this? Does it mean my airbag will not work in a crash? Or is it a ticking time bomb and poses a safety risk? ... thank you all so much for the adcive so far, yall have saved me tons of money and always point me in the right direction
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The leak is on the back side between the hose and the bolt you can see a bit that pools on the bracket then drips on the manifold. Probably the o ring i hope. Im searching how to remove the reservoir so i can change it. Ive done lucas stop leak but its not workin. But to be fair ive only been able to put a minimal amount in there. I have a big syringe that ill suck some of the old fluid out with, and ill check the link for the o ring i may need.
Unless it seems like there is another direction i need to start at
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33 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Need to check the wiring back to the ECU.
Thanks man, im trying to find a competent guide. This chilton is bullshit. Lol glad i didnt buy it. Ill take a picture of my old knock sensor and maybe yall can tell what was wrong with it. I didnt see any cracks. A bit of corrosion. And ill take a pic of the installed knock sensor tomorrow to double check i installed it correctly. I just did what the prior one was. But maybe that one was installed wrong...?
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10 hours ago, idosubaru said:
It doesn’t have two knock sensors.
it’s really easy. One 12mm bolt and done. 10 minutes if concurrently sipping a beer.
find the FSM from Subaru online and use the chiltons for kindling. They’re free and easy to find. Or get more picture grabs online, it’s really easy and will give you the torque value and orientation and location.
FSM: ideally you get a 1996 Impreza FSM but any 95-98 legacy or Impreza 2.2 will suffice for the knock sensor job.
So i replaced it , cleared the code and .... the code came back. Wtf? Same exact code. So i take it there is another problem?
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I think i found a prior post abot where the sensor is, my chilton sucks and doesnt give good descriptions on the location i am hoping this will fix it. I will wrench on it this weekend. According to my manual i have 2 sensors possibly?
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13 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
No - never buy that Chinese junk from autozone. Here's a smokin deal on an OEM JECS sensor:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNISIA-JECS-KNOCK-SENSOR-P-N-22060-AA031/332812539727
GD
Holy crow. Thanks dude it will be here the 16th. Went ahead and ordered that bad boy. Thank you so much for lookin out
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32 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Yes it will make it work a LOT better. Without it you are in limp mode for ignition timing.
The knock sensor protects the engine from poor quality gasoline or other causes of detonation.
GD
https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/knock-sensor/duralast-knock-sensor/268129_0_0
Stupid question but is this the part i need?
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2 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Buy a new sensor. Cleaning it is not likely to work.
GD
Thanks bud. Its only a 40 dollar part so ill order it this friday. Im not even sure what a knock sensor does to be honest. But hopefully it will make the car work better? Lol
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Uploaded is a picture. Is it an easy fix? I saw a youtube video that said they just cleaned theirs real good and it worked fine, i bought a cheap obd 2 sensor and i have a list of other things it tested for
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4 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
so many folks have fixed whining or notchy-feeling power steering with just an o-ring
I have read of people modifying Jeep or Chrysler wiper bushings - or the replacement bushing kit parts, and epoxying them into their wiper linkages.
Or, they get a new wiper linkage.
My power steering res. Is leaking on the bottom so it drips on my manifold and smokes when the engine heats up. I thought of running a toggle switch to my wiper motor but the part is only like 80 bucks. And i found shocks and springs for like 200
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On 9/26/2018 at 4:25 PM, brus brother said:
Thank you for this. , alternator is fixed. And lights are not pulsing anymore. Check engine light is off. Now just shocks, power steering pump, and the windshield wiper lever. And i should have a great car.
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21 minutes ago, heartless said:
changing an alternator is not difficult.
a basic metric socket set is really all you need, tool wise.
Exactly how it is done will depend on which style accessory system you have.. a single serpentine belt to run all accessories (newer style), or two separate belts (old style)
would help if we knew what year & model Subaru we are discussing.
Its a 96 impreza lx 2.2 L
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Ok alternator output is bad. I dont have the code yet, but ill try and get a new alternator this payday.
My next step will be how much of a bitch will it be to change? My mechanic is out of state so ill have to do it hans solo.
I do have the chilton manual and ill try to rally some friends to help, but most likely ill be alone doing it
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2 hours ago, brus brother said:
I'm not sure if Dude's suggestion will fix your problem.
Instead of throwing parts at the car (knock sensor, new tires, window tint) might be better off having a FREE alternator test done at your local Autozone parts store in Missoula.
Speak with Ashley. She opens tomorrow and will gladly test your alternator. They can also check to see if you have any stored or pending codes.
The next question is year of your car and how to proceed if alternator is crapping out. Some say stay away from aftermarket ones and go for a rebuilt original.
Are you local? Do i have to take the alternator off to test it? Thats the only reason i havent yet. I will be getting the codes checked soon so i know a bit better of a direction to go.
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6 hours ago, heartless said:
while you are there, have them read the codes for that check engine light.
Dude i bought it from says its the knock sensor. Would that cause the light problem? It still may be a faulty alternator. But ill replace the knock sensor this coming payday
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Here is video of the problem. I am hoping one of you can steer me in the right direction. My mechanic is less then helpful so far. And now is out of state.
I have checked the battery with a volt meter, it reads 12.4 .
When the car is on it goes up to 13.8, when i turn ac and lights on it fluctuates between 13.6 and 13.8.
I have replaced the plugs and wires so far. But not sure where to head next.
Ill get a video of it in the day time. But hopefully you can hear the issue. There is a sliht whine and the weirs pulsing sound.
The idle doesnt go up or down, like most peoples issues on the web that ive found.
It mainly does it when starting until it warms up , but it does it slightly when turning on the blinker i notice the check engine light dim in rhythm .
Help?
Thanks to the advice i found it was a faulty alternator, and i found how to fix it myself
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1 hour ago, heartless said:
Feberg is the manufacturer - they are an aftermarket replacement.
But i cant seem to find any info on them. Ive searched all over google and on other forums. Other then in passing on posts where people say its an aftermarket replacement lol
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Drivers side fine... passenger side , no clue wtf is goin on there.
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(The dude before me installed new headlight assemblies on my 96 subaru impreza lx. I have searched all over but cant find anything about them . On the lenses they say sae hr06 dot 13v h4 vor FeBerg srip95.0 on the cover.
I am trying to adjust the passenger side headlight as its too high up. But i cant find info so im not sure excatly what to do. There is a bolt on the back (upper inside) and one on the lower back (towards outside) i have turned both but neither seem to move my beam. Ill go take a picture of the front and inside in hopes someone can tell me what im doing wrong.
I feel stupid asking but am at my wits end. Maybe its broke? Pictures to come
96 impreza 2.2 water pump replacement help
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Do i need one of the kits that have all the extra stuff included or could i just get a water pump / gasket and a new timing belt? Im trying to find one that is rated well and has the parts i need. My old camaro i could of did this no problem or my old chevy truck lol, but these subarus have me not knowing whether to scratch my watch or wind my butt. (Or whatever my wife says when shits confusing lol)