Hayne

Congrats....Within the next couple of days I'm going to recheck the replaced gear for premature wear. I'msure it will eventually show up. You just can't wear one out without damage to the other. Hopefully the replaceable cog is softer than the driver.

Mannnnn! I'm now in the position of forgetting more than most people know. Its been so long since I rebuilt an engine I'd forgotten about that stuff. I'd think it would work. Now just need the tollerance. Its not one of those things a HAYNE's Manual adresses since they tell you to keep your gurbby little hands out of the gutts of an automatic.

The driven gear is on the gov. The drive gear is in the tranny. If its your drive your pretty much screwed unless your a auto tran man. I think I know what you ment 'cause your not crying loud enough for me to hear ya in Shelby, NC Crankshaft clearance I can see. Its something you can get to. But the gov. cap is what actually holds the gov inplace. You put the cap over it you can't move it, see it or touch it. CATCH 22.

A friend of mine just down the road runs a transmission shop. He got them for me from his supplier. Don't know who that may be. Sorry

I replaced the driven gear. It was gone. The drive gear felt OK. Bought two replacements for about $50.00 most of that was airfreight. Fixed it with one and hope to beat "Murphy's Law" with the other. Check out my other post on this. Se if you have an answer for it. I could see where wear could set in due to the design. That's really quiet a bit of weight flopping around under that cover.

OK....I R&R'd the govenor's driven gear. And I felt inside the hole that the shaft fit in and the driving gear didn't feel concaved like the driven gear was. I'm going to take the cover back off in couple of days and check the driven gear once again to give me an idea if the gear will last any length of time. I also got another replacement gear to try and outrun "Murphy's Law." The govenor cover has a shim washer which I assume in part determines the end play of the govenor since nothing else actually holds it in place. The only other varying factor will be the sealing gasket between the cover and the tranny housing. My question is this. How is the tolerance determined since the cover is bolted down and you can't get to anything from that point? It just strikes ma as courious and food for thought.

OK...Got the Subie govenor fixed. At least temporarily. It killed the driven gear to the govenor. Feeling inside the input shaft hole the drive still felt intact. I got two more driven gears (one to fix it the other to try and beat Murphy's Law)and replaced the worn one. Works fine now. I'm going to put a couple hundred miles on it and check for undue wear again. That way I can at least keep track of how much life may be left. But ANYWAY in doing this operation I noticed the govenor's end play is dictated by by the cap over the govenor. There is a shim washer in this cap and the only other thing that would determine the clearence is the gasket between the cap and the tranny body. Now. My question is how do you determine the proper tolerence between the cap and the govenor top when the cap is bolted down over the govenor? I'm just courious about it.

Hi Guys, My son posted the thread for me while I was at work. Hence the lack of info. Yes its a 3spd 2WD tranny in a 1990 Loyale SW. There was no signs of trouble AT ALL. I was in the apex of a turn runnig about 55mph and she just quit pulling. I have 1st, 2nd and reverse but they have to be shifted manually. I put it in D3 and it refuses to shift. The trans fluid wasn't dark or burned. The differental grease was 1/3 quart low but I wouldn't think the final drive would factor in to this. Would it? The governor would sound plausable. Any other ideas?

I have a 1990 subaru loyale. Yesterday when i was driving home i lost third gear. There was no sign of slipping or anything else. From what i can tell the transmision shifts off a vacum line.... Does any one know how to adjust this or has this ever happened to you?

Thanks. I got to have one tomorrow. I found one about 30 miles up the road for $150.00. For the situation I'm in (wife's a Rural Mail Carrier) that seems like a reasonable price. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks. No one around here in the salvage yards could give any more info than "raised or not?" Knew I could ask here and it'd get answered pretty darn quick. Best automotive help board I've ever been to. Hope the Subby ain't hurt no more than superficially and ego. Wife got real lucky & did a slow, slide down 8' bank, on its side, against a tree. Real foggy & damp this AM less than 50' visability. Met a deer and a car at the same time in a turn. Other guy didn't stop. She got some bruses and is going to be sore a couple of days I'm sure. Thanks again for the info and quick reply.

That is the question I hope someone can answer real quick. I need a lift-gate for a '90 Loyale SW. Everyone wants to know is the roof raised or not? DO WHAT? No it didn't crush the roof just bent the lift-gate:rolleyes: So at any rate I found one that's not and I'm bettin it will work. But if someone could give me an idea as to the difference real quick I could approach this better informed. If this is the right one I need to get it today 'cause its the closest one in 60 miles. Any help appreciated.

I read through this thread, so I know this hasn't been asked. What everyone else has said is viable. OK. I'm not trying to be funny or assanine. Does this car have any type of spring held hub cap? The reason I ask is, they can make a noise similar to what you describe when a spring gets weak. It goes with the speed of the wheel and can be anything from a click to a squeek to a grate. It doesn't necessarily do it all the time and can change with the temperature. I know this sounds stupid but our '90 Loyale had the small center caps and made a racket. Our daughters had dish hubcaps and made the same...but different racket. If it does have caps it would be worth eliminating. Things are seldom that simple though.

My daughter's blew a head gasket and it wouldn't show up on my compression testor even though it pumped out steam on occasion. It is very likely it could have blown between the oil and water ports. Though you'd think the two would mix I've seen many a time when they didn't. Its weired. probably got something to do with the difference in viscosity of the two liquids. I'd give a 95% chance the head gasket's blown in at least one place. You need to R&R both sides when you go into it. Check both heads and mating surfaces for flatness. At the least lap the valves. The cracks between the intake and exhaust valves???? Don't worry about them. You may be able to go back to one of my first posts and see a pic of the cracks if they hold the pics on this forum. There is also some good info on that thread about your problem. Hey! a blown HG is alot better than a cracked block. Update: Yeah. The pics are still there as well as the blow in the HG into the compression chamber. Go to "Hayne" and then "All posts started by...." Its obvious where to go from there. Hope this helps.

It depends on where the gasket is leaking. If its between the cylinders or around the cylinders, you'll lose compression. Oil galley will leak oil. Water jacket will leak water. Either of them internally or externally. I would suspect a possible leak between the oil galley and water jacket not getting into the compression chamber therefore not effecting compression.....yet. That is what the head gasket does. It keeps compression, water and oil seperate. There may be other reasons on a pan motor that I'm not aware of so don't bet the farm on this info. This is just basic mecahnics speaking here. Have you detected any water in the oil? Any over heating as of yet? FYI It seems most of the 1800 heads develop cracks but oddly enough this has no effect on the running of the engine. Nor the durability of the head gaskets. Beats all I've ever seen.

DANG GUYS!!!! You gotta be impressed. Extra power, extra MPG. Considering what it is designed to do; it may even stop that bloody spark ping I can't adjust out. Its something to look into. You'd think since lack of one causes the engine to dump a smoke screen into the air that would rival that laid by destroyers during WWII; the EPA would have made Subby recall the offenders. Thanks again all, for the advice.

I'd just about discount the TOB from what you last said. But I would suspect a half shaft bearing either inner or outter since you said it seems to click with wheel rotation. Also you won't want to hear this but it could be an input bearing in the tranny. I'm not a gambling man but I'd just about lay money on a bearing. Didn't realize it was 4WD. You do have matched tires on the car don't you? For test purposes you can remove the fuse on the 4WD and eliminate it. We had a 4WD Turbo before this one we now have. Too many un-needed moving parts for me. Turbo and 4WD. I suppose this will be the last Subby we own 'cause they are all 4WD or All Wheel Drive now. We just don't need a 4WD in Piedmont NC. Its a shame cause the Loyale design is one of the most outstadingly thought out engine compartments I've ever set a wrench into. One other thing...My wife runs our Subby on her Mail route. From time to time we get clicks in the front brakes. That of course wouldn't have anything to do with it shutting up when the clutch is disengaged. Just thought I'd throw that in to be complete and add to the confusion Would like to know the results....

Is there noise while car is sitting still in netural with the clutch pedal out? If so I'm voting for TOB chatter. This sound could minimize if car is at idle. Hence the stethascope trick.

Being a manual tranny I'm not sure of the throw-out-bearing configuration. But in other cars with a roller type TOB I've heard the clicking sound coming from it. If its doing it while stopped and the engine running that would be a suspect. You can isolate it if its stopped by taking a piece of tube and use it as a stethascope. Wonder around the bellhousing and see if the sound increases. Of course this technique works for hunting any elusive noise that you can get to when the cars not rolling down the road.

Yeah. That's kind of what I was invisioning. I'd think it would also have to be cleaned out or replaced on occasion.

Hummm....Ain't no rumor. I recall somthing the coursness of a scouring pad being used in older cars. Good idea.

I never cease to be amazed at the input from this board. Thanks for the part # and other info. At least I know its a common problem. I'll follow up with our local "Subby" dealer. Armed with the number maybe they won't try to side step me. Thanks again, Hayne

Here's one that makes me go Hummmmm...... 1990 Subaru Loyal, SW, 1800cc, automatic, 2wd, non-turbo, 135,000 miles. Every so often, on sweeping left turns at speeds of around 55-65 mph (ie acceleration ramps onto interstates) a large puff of blue smoke will emit from the exhaust. This is bad enough to obstruct rear vision. This causes the car to bogg momentarily. Once turn is complete smoke subsides engine smooths out and runs like nothing happened. Smoke has more of a kordite smell than oil. Of course this is rediculous. It must either be oil or drive fluid. I've only noticed this on left handers but most entrances on clover leafs etc are left hand turns. I can only assume that this is due to centrifical force moving the fluid to right side. I do have a leak on a valve cover on the right side; but a major leak onto the exhaust would not explain the engine bogg. This is obviously entering the cumbustion chamber some way. The car has always run well and cool with no missing what so ever until the big blue cloud engulfs everyone behind me. The only oil consumption that I can ascertain is coming from leaks around the valve covers. Anybody got any suggestions as to what is causing the big blue puff??? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks a bunch for the diagram. With my daughters acting up pretty consistant and ours starting to give problems it does seem to be pretty common. I have an old 80 Corolla SW that does the same thing. It was suggested by someone years ago. It seemed to help changing the battery cables on it. But I figured they really took a beating considering the genius that designed it put the starter right under the exhaust down pipe. Great place for a major electrical component. Makes you wonder why a relay wasn't incorporated in the first place.Thanks again.

I've also heard of this solution. Thanks, Hayne