Hayne

Thanks sregor13. I'll give this a try.

I have my doubts that these two problems are related. But they involve two different cars of the same type. My daughter has an '86 Loyal SW with an automatic. She is having intermitant starting problems involving the starter. It has been replaced but hasn't alieved the problem. My son-in-law replaced the cables to the battery and starter before I R&R'd the starter. His mechanical aptitude doesn't impress me that much. Our 1990 Loyale SW automatic is also starting to refuse to turn over. But hasn't gotten that bad as of yet. Would this be related to connectors or is there an inherant problem with the ignition switch or inhibitor switch? Also on our 1990. The key has a tendency to get hung up in the ignition switch. This seems to happen more when the car is turned hard; like when pulling into a parking space. I've used WD-40 on the switch and can't really tell much difference. Any input would be helpful

I'm going to make the drive to Gastonia and get the dealership to cut a key and see if that solves the problem. Thanks for the advice Hayne

FSM's are usually very expensive. I've used Haynes Manuals for over 30 years. (Not because of any similarities in name.) They have gone down hill over the last 5yrs or so but are still better than anything you can get off the shelf. They'll have pretty much everything you can get in a Chiltons.

The simpicity of the older Subarus is what I like. It a shame they're all "All Wheel Drives" now. That'll probably keep me from buying a newer one. Thanks All for the input

My concern is for the release button at the far throw of the auto-shifter. The one thing I've noticed is when the switch malfunctions the shift feels....different.....when put back into park. Sorry, "different" is the only way I can describe it. Is there something tying the shift linkage to the ignition switch?

This maybe more of a question for a locksmith than a mechanic. Our '90 Loyal has developed an annoying problem with the ignition key not coming out of the switch when turned off. Two keys behave the same way. It doesn't do this all of the time but does seem to be hanging more frequently. I've shot penetrating oil into the tumbler a number of times but I can't say it has helped or lessened the frequency. I've found no real pattern to this problem other than MAYBE it hangs more if I turn sharp into a parking space. But I can't be sure about this 'cause it doesn't do it consistantly. Is there any electrical system tied into this switch that could be causing this problem; or does it sound like the switch needs to be retired? If there IS a locksmith out there does it sound like a key needs to be made for the lock rather than shadowed from another key? ANY INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

I appreciate the information on the head cracking and such. Not meaning to speak prematurely but I finally got my daughter's 86 Subbie SW cranked today. After 30 miles it stayed cool as a cuecumber and no hemmorages. Hopefully it will stay that way. I'd been done much sooner if the weather had been better and I didn't have to do the whole thing twice. Did an Italian design the cooling system on that car? Where the shroud doesn't seperate on this model, its like you have to put the whole works: radiator, shroud, fan, clutch and pulley all down in that space at one time. Truly an Italian mentallity.

I'm amazed at a couple of things from this experience. A cracking problem first off. But a cracking problem that an engine can live with? Its a new one on me. The valve guides feel great so I can't say it has been detrimental so far. They all lapped in today and the head is true so I suppose I'm going to start buttoning her up tomorrow. You can tell by the pics that the gasket didn't drive far. In fact it never redgistered on my pressure guage. I consider the irregular belt wear to be my fault. If I hadn't put the cog on backwards I'd still be driving it. Negative learning is an excellent teacher....if you survive it. I've never considered running without a cover. Sure would make things a lot more accessable. Not that they aren't already. That is one thing I like so much about the car. It's like it was designed by a mechanic! I hate you can't get the 2WD version anymore. I really like the simplicity. Just don't get that anymore. This has really been a very helpful group of people. I certainly do appreciate it. Sincerely Hayne

This is embarrassing but I'll own up. The first timing belts I changed on one of these motors I put the two crank coggs with the lips to the back and front rather than both towards the engine. They ran like that for about 6,000 miles then wore each other out. My fear was valve clash. Then I got to thinking about how the timing belts were set up on installation. and that eased my mind. It was a heck of a mess behind the cover with all that rubber band debris but nothing else was any worse for the wear. Live and learn....And sometimes we dodge the bullet. Told my daughter this morning before she went on her mail route. I'm sure it gave her one less worry for the day. Thanks Hayne

Whewww!!!! You made my day. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to make my daughter's. My biggest concern was the possibility of loosing a valve seat and the piston chewing it up and digesting it into the bowels of the crankcase. NASTY!!! I am one of those who has to live by "Murphy's Laws." When staking the seat should I take the aluminum over the seat? Good or bad I'm going to button it back up and hope for the best. It's like I said, it was running fine before the gasket blew. Looking at the pics you can tell this isn't something that occured several miles ago. Thanks again, Hayne

I wouldn't even be asking this except for but two reasons. the first is obviously ignorance. The second is until the head gasket blew (and it was just a slight breach) the '86, 1800 Subaru GL was running pretty darn good. Plugs were clean, no skipping, no smoking or steam. Even when the gasket did blow the coolant pressure check didn't show any signs of leakage although she did start to steam intermitantly. After finally getting the engine out (thanks again for that help) and breaking down the heads; on clean-up I could see the cracks running between the exhaust and inlet valves. By the looks of both heads I figure this is something common. That pretty much lets getting one through a salvage yard out. Is this somethhing that could be lived with given the running order of the engine prior to dismantaling? Or is the only alternative replacement?

That's a good thing to know. We've got an '86 and '90 Loyal SW thought they don't seem to call the '86 a Loyal. I'm glad to have found this forum.

Hello Miles Thank you very much for your assistance. Your advice gave me the confidence to wedge the two apart. There is just something about sticking screwdrivers between two irreplacable parts and tapping on them with a mallet that fills me with anxiety. I'll keep this site on my favorites and hopefully one day I may be able to return the favor for someone.

Thanks Miles. I'd read your engine pull sequence but I just wanted to make sure. I just didn't want to damage the castings. They sounded a little fragile. I'll take the tranny all the way up and that should lessen the give from it. Hope it works. I'm tired of fooling with it. This is only the second "Soobie" engine I've pulled. The first one was a 1600 back in the '80's. Don't recall it being such a pain. Thanks again, Hayne

Hello all, I've run into a problem trying to seperate the engine from the auto transaxle in my daughters '86 1800 GL SW. Everything seems to be detached that is supposed to be. 4 torque converter bolts, 2 upper eng/trans bolts, 2 lower eng/trans nuts, stab bar, all ancilleries. I can raise the engine off the mounts. There is even a gap wide enough to place a thin screwdriver between the motor and tranny when I raise them up from the mounts. I does seem to close about the pins. But no matter how I pull I can't seem to get seperation. Is the aluminum engine just stuck on the lower steel studs? Or is there a hidden bolt that I've neglected? If stuck what is the best way to unstick it without damage? I've tried WD-40 on the studs. Is it possible to remove the studs? I really need to get this done so I can get on with my life. I also really don't want to have to pull the engine and tranny as a unit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Hayne