Raynman1989
-
Posts
42 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Raynman1989
-
-
4 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Or that sway bar is designed for a Subaru that’s been lowered.
She's got lowered springs fitted.
-
1 hour ago, ronemus said:
You'd do better with links using pillow balls, for example Whiteline's.
It would seem so but these should work since whiteline make this bar and links for this car. Seems they've got their measurements wrong?
-
17 hours ago, lmdew said:
Bushings look like they are shot as well.
They're brand new
-
On 1/4/2024 at 3:11 PM, nvu said:
Angle looks bad. Get some more washers on the upper bolt to space it back in line. you might need a longer upper bolt. I did something like this when I still had the narrow wagon swaybar with the wider sedan control arms.
Yeah I was thinking of doing that but it wouldn't totally fix the issue
-
I just fitted a 22mm whiteline front Sway bar and endlinks and to my untrained eye the different angle between the link and bar looks terrible (it's the same on both sides). The car also has lowering springs which of course make the angle worse. Is it going to be an issue? Surely it will wear the bushes out considerably faster at the very least?
-
On 2/27/2022 at 9:04 PM, el_freddo said:
Do you know the history of the engine? If not it certainly points to a head gasket issue. Why was the original engine swapped out?
Cheers
Bennie
The motors done 220,000ks and had a full service history (headgaskets hadn't been replaced in that time) up until about 20,000ks before I got hold of it. I took the previous engine out due to headgasket issues. Guess I may as well do the headgaskets with the symptoms it's got and considering I've got headgaskets for it and need to replace the clutch while it's out.
On 2/28/2022 at 4:17 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:GD's toothcount suggestion is dead on. Search online for t'count for that engine. You guys are in the middle of summer....but still doubt a tooth off is gonna cause overheating...
make sure it has an OEM style thermostat with the large wax capsule, make sure there's no debris build-up between the radiator and the a/c condenser, 'burp' the cooling system well, etc.
Tbh I've never really spent too much time trying to "burp the coolant system besides running the engine with the cap off, will air in the system stop circulation?
-
1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Count the number of teeth between the marks and compare to the specification in the manual.
You can only be a WHOLE tooth off, not a partial. Remember that. Ask yourself if moving it would make it closer or farther off?
In any case it sounds like it's very close. This would not cause overheating. Don't overlook a possible head gasket failure in progress. Happens all the time.
GD
Yeah I mean distance it's only about half a tooth away from the mark (the mark lands between 2 teeth). Moving it would make it an equal distance past the tooth.
Man I've really been hoping it's not a headgasket. Only just put this engine in and done under 10,000ks on it but everything seems to be pointing at a headgasket failure
-
I've been having some issues with my ej, overheating and high fuel usage. I ook the timing cover off to check the water pump and noticed the timing seems to be off by about 1 tooth.
If I line up one cam and the crank with their marks then the remaining cam doesn't line up but moving the cam 1 tooth causes it to move past the mark and still not line up.
The timing belt shouldn't be stretched (if they even stretch) since it's only done about 10,000ks. Should I just move the belt that one extra tooth and see if it changes anything?
-
On 10/21/2021 at 7:36 PM, el_freddo said:
Leaky head gaskets would be suspect number 1 I think.
EJs can pop the head gasket that only leaks a tiny bit or only leaks under certain conditions.
If you don’t know the history of the HGs I’d suggest it’s tie for replacement.
Cheers
Bennie
Man I sure hope it's not the headgasket as the motor only just went in to replace a motor with leaky headgaskets
but I haven't been contemplating taking the motor out to replace the clutch so that will be a good time to do the headgaskets. Will a compressions test pick up on a leaky headgasket?
On 10/21/2021 at 11:05 PM, DaveT said:Any air in the cooling system is bad. It doesn't take much to collect in the water pump and stop the circulation of the coolant. This is bad for head gaskets. My experience with older engine models you don't get away with this condition not leading to a headgasket up reseal.
Surely by now all the air would be out of the cooling system? Or can air work it's way in at any time?
On 10/22/2021 at 1:57 AM, Numbchux said:What EJ22?
What indications that it's overheating? Factory gauge? Aftermarket gauge? Infrared thermometer? Does the heat work when it happens?
Use a radiator test kit to pressurize the system and look for your leak. Could easily be introducing air into the system, which is causing your problems.
Phase 1 (1989) ej22e? Well tbh I've only had a block temp gauge to go off but I can certainly tell when an engine is running hotter besides the block temp reading considerable higher, a large amount of coolant overflowing from the radiator and the smell of a cooking motor
-
Having trouble keeping my ej22 cool in my l series. I've fitted an aluminium (cheap ebay one) ej radiator and have both thermo fans hooked up together.
It runs fine on the highway and in cooler weather but when the ambient temperature starts getting over 20⁰C the temperature will start climbing, especially on the beach and in stop start traffic.
There is a slight coolant leak that I can't find, used maybe 1 litre on a recent 700km trip. Could that cause overheating?
-
Just curious If there were different driveshafts for the l series?
The reason I ask is I bought some kelpro cv boots for a set of repco front driveshafts I purchased not too long ago and the boots are about 10mm too small in diameter on the large end for the cv cups. This caused me to check the diameter of the old driveshafts I've had laying around and they are smaller (the correct size for the kelpro boots I bought). I thought maybe repco just decided to make them bigger but I went back instore and the shafts they have are of the smaller size.
So was there a particular model that for some reason had heavier duty driveshafts and I've somehow ended up with them? I'd like to find out so I can try and possibly get some kelpro boots to suit instead of the crappy universal ones I'll have to use for now.
The car is a 5spd 89 touring wagon.
-
55 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Nah not your fault I was being to lazy to take notes form multiple replies. Lol.
So when it’s “not working”, it always clicks but doesn’t spin?
If you think the battery, terminals and wiring are grand...which the other starter does imply....then
Replace the brushes and clean the starter motor internals (not the solenoid, the actual starter motor).
Nah i definitely made it more complicated than need be haha. Yeah when it'd "not working" in the car it clicking ever time throwing the gear out but only spins maybe every 10 key turn.
I have taken the whole thing apart and cleaned everything including the brushes and armature and whatever else is in there but maybe the brushes do need replacing, they look fine although obviously worn.
-
Sorry if I didn't explain it very clearly, I'll break it down as best I can.
Starter was working intermittently, most of the time it was just clicking. Tested it out if the car and it was the same. Took the whole starter motor apart, cleaned every contact surface and replaced the solenoid plunger and contacts with new ones. Still doesn't work when fitted to the car but now works fine when tested on the bench (gear is thrown out and motor spins). Test fitted a totally different starter motor from a newer vehicle and it works 100%.
-
On 10/21/2020 at 11:33 PM, idosubaru said:
I'd guess it has an aftermarket starter from years ago (maybe before you owned it?).
If it's a Subaru unit I'd get another used Subaru starter and swap the new contacts/plunger into it.
Or take it apart and start tracing power through it to look for a problem area if you're interested in trying to repair it. I've never gotten beyond contacts/brushes for electric motors and starters so I'm not sure what that means but I assume you can apply power as needed, and work your way from the terminals inward, one step at a time looking for continuity and power loss each step of the way. Outer terminal to inside of the terminal - does it have continuity/power? Then move on to the next shortest distance....etc. And ask around for how to test windings.
It's not the original unit but it is a "fuji heavy industries" unit. Weirdly enough I've got the starter to work 100% while out of the car but when I fit it to the car it still does the same thing, just clicks. The other starter motor i have that fits but isn't the right one for the car works fine though! I'm confused even more now. Could it be the ignition relay isn't supplying enough amps and the newer starter requires less therefore it works?
-
Alright so I just fitted new contacts and a new plunger and also took the motor apart and gave all the contact points a good sand/clean and it's still got the same issue
-
Well I narrowed it down to the starter being the issue, fitted a starter from a liberty and it works 100% besides the grinding if you don't let go of the key quick enough haha. Managed to get my hands on some contacts and a plunger so I'll replace those and see if it fixes the problem.
-
So I've recently been having trouble with my starter motor. Sometimes (not often) it will start right up and other times it try for about 1 minute and it will eventually start. Now I am hearing a "clicking" like the solenoid is working but the starter doesn't turn. I took it apart and clean/adjusted the solenoid contacts but it made no difference. I pulled the gear out by hand and it seemed smooth also the plunger seems in good condition and moves easily. Will/can an auto electrician rebuild it? Id attempt to rebuild it myself but I plan on using the car soon and I can't get parts quickly. Should I just buy a new one? Id prefer not to since it's a genuine on.
Cheers
-
How would an ej22 manual with low range l series compare to a h6 outback auto without low range? I've currently got a lifted ej22 l series and I'm thinking of upgrading to a 2005ish h6 outback auto. I would eventually lift the outback 2-4 inches when funds allow it.
I'm leaning towards the outback as it's newer, more powerful, safer, better on road, better parts availability. I don't do any extreme off roading but I do a lot of sand driving and occasionally go to the local 4x4 parks.
Basically it comes down to will the outback without low range still be just as capable in the sand and occasionally doing some medium difficulty 4wd "only" tracks?
-
16 hours ago, el_freddo said:
There’s a set of test connectors, black from memory that you click together, then turn the ignition to the ON position without starting the engine.
The check engine light will flash codes that you need to record. Long flash = 10, short flash = 1. Then reference any codes you have as to what they are.
The ECU will list in order of where to start first, and it will loop until the ignition is off. You’ll also hear the fuel pump pulsating - on for several seconds, off for the same and so on.
If there are no codes you’ll get a consistent single flash sequence that tells you the market designation of that ECU.
Cheers
Bennie
I found the connectors I believe they consist of 2 green and 2 black according to someone else. Only problem is the guy who did the ej22 swap seems to have cut of one of the black connector. Any idea what colour the wire should be so i can try and find it?
-
On 6/25/2020 at 7:46 AM, Step-a-toe said:
Have you got all the engine management components from old EJ to swap back into new donk?
Doing one by one looking for lost power might reveal cause
I've still got all the parts from the old motor, which ones do you mean?
On 6/25/2020 at 8:05 AM, el_freddo said:What, no “how big is your tank” for accurate comparison.
@Raynman1989 you really need to accurately record the number of litres put into the fuel tank against the distance travelled. This will give you very accurate fuel usage records to compare.
The EJ22 - what did it come from, a Gen1 or Gen2, and what was your original EJ22 from?
The Gen2 EJ22 has a higher compression ratio to that of the Gen1, yet externally they both look the same.
It could be a difference of compression ratio, that or you’ve got a worn engine.
Also check for codes
Cheers
Bennie
I always reset my trip meter and check how many litres I put it out of habit.
The new motor is a phase 1, the old motor im not so sure as it looks quite different when you look closely. I don't think the new motor is that worn, it's done 220000km but was owned by an old lady till 200000km
7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:some folks have had knock sensors go bad with no code.
bad temp sensor maybe could cause rich running with no code?
maybe 'disturbed' exhaust system now has a little blockage somewhere?
I swapped in the temp sensor from the old motor so it "should" be fine since it worked before. Could be the exhaust as it was sitting arouns for years with open headers.
How do i check for codes?
-
recently replaced the ej22 in my l series and I get 350km maximum out of a tank, I was getting 450km+ with my previous ej22. I didn't change anything else when fitting the replacement engine. I've replaced all the fluids, spark plugs and air filter. On a side note it also seems to be slightly lacking in power compared to me previous motor but maybe like 5% difference. I did have to swap the intake manifold from the old motor to the new one but everything is connected correctly. Any ideas what could be causing the poor economy?
-
2 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:
Mine too
Get your vin out. It will tell if started life as an auto
If, I say if your model same as my 85 sedan from factory, the button on dash was for if engaged , to automatically engage the rear wheels whenever brakes applied ( using brake light switch as the sensor!) to assist with braking,
Or if the kickdown switch was activated to assist with best traction for acceleration ( not fastest)
Or if you turn wipers on, suggesting road surface could be wet, giving you four wheel sturdiness
Hell it was a fun option ( to take mind off it being only a three speed auto
Didn't think of that maybe it was an auto before! Just tried using 4wd while driving on bitumen and it created a HUGE amount of drag almost like i had the handbrake on
-
7 hours ago, DaveT said:
Starting moving going straight, ok. Not all the time on. When you mention auto - do you mean this is an automatic transmission?
it's a manual transmission. It has a button on the dash that says "auto 4wd"
-
8 hours ago, Mack Truck said:
you could use the 4wd when starting out from a stop, however any turning on pavement is really hard on ALL of the components of the drive train from the transfer case out. Tires, CV joints and differentials, drive line. etc. the other issue when doing this is the tire size and wear need to be even as with AWD cars. try it wen starting out in a straight line and see how it goes.
Turning from a stop is usually the worst for losing traction. Sounds like im better off just not using it
Sway bar links and sway bar don't line up
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by Raynman1989
That's with it sitting on the ground. It's got kings lowered springs and it's 1996 liberty wagon.
It doesn't look lowered because of the angle I took the pic on.