Raynman1989
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Posts posted by Raynman1989
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I "think" my tailshaft needs replacing, u-joints feel quite rough when moved by hand, centre bearing rubber housing seems okay (no cracks) besides it sagging but I do get a "vibration" under hard acceleration that feels exactly like a center bearing housing failure.
Maybe the vibration is something else?
Apparently these tailshafts can't be rebuilt and with the car being an uncommon import I'm having a hard time finding what tailshafts are compatible.
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33 minutes ago, nvu said:
When the tail end of the transmission jumps up and down, it tilts the engine back and forth. If your rear transmission mount is the oem open style, change it to the solid group n style. If the prev owner already installed it, the pitch stop is sort of redundant.
These are probably not the exact ones for your car, they're even different. but you get the idea, look at the rear trans mount and see if they're already solid.
Thanks I'll make sure to get one of those if I don't already have one.
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1 hour ago, lmdew said:
How much of it is there?
Pretty much just there for an accident, so not a big deal if it's not there.
Not much you can do without pulling the dash. Weld, not with all the wire and insulation on the inside. Bracket and rivets, limited strength.
As far as I can tell most of the bracket is still in place but all that's holding it there is some glue/silicone. Guess I'll leave it as is.
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A previous owner of my legacy gt has cut off part of the pitch stop mount so it is no longer welded to the firewall.
What are some suggestions?
Just leave it off? And maybe upgrade the engine mounts to something stiffer?
Weld it without removing anything in the engine bay?
Making a homemade bracket and using some big rivets?
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21 hours ago, el_freddo said:
They don’t look very lowered judging by the control arm in the pic you provided - assuming this is sitting on the ground and not jacked up in the air. If that is a pic of it jacked up with the wheel in the air can you post a pic of the car sitting on the ground the way it usually would?
What model Subaru are we talking here and what springs are fitted?
Cheers
Bennie
That's with it sitting on the ground. It's got kings lowered springs and it's 1996 liberty wagon.
It doesn't look lowered because of the angle I took the pic on.
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4 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Or that sway bar is designed for a Subaru that’s been lowered.
She's got lowered springs fitted.
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1 hour ago, ronemus said:
You'd do better with links using pillow balls, for example Whiteline's.
It would seem so but these should work since whiteline make this bar and links for this car. Seems they've got their measurements wrong?
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17 hours ago, lmdew said:
Bushings look like they are shot as well.
They're brand new
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On 1/4/2024 at 3:11 PM, nvu said:
Angle looks bad. Get some more washers on the upper bolt to space it back in line. you might need a longer upper bolt. I did something like this when I still had the narrow wagon swaybar with the wider sedan control arms.
Yeah I was thinking of doing that but it wouldn't totally fix the issue
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I just fitted a 22mm whiteline front Sway bar and endlinks and to my untrained eye the different angle between the link and bar looks terrible (it's the same on both sides). The car also has lowering springs which of course make the angle worse. Is it going to be an issue? Surely it will wear the bushes out considerably faster at the very least?
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On 2/27/2022 at 9:04 PM, el_freddo said:
Do you know the history of the engine? If not it certainly points to a head gasket issue. Why was the original engine swapped out?
Cheers
Bennie
The motors done 220,000ks and had a full service history (headgaskets hadn't been replaced in that time) up until about 20,000ks before I got hold of it. I took the previous engine out due to headgasket issues. Guess I may as well do the headgaskets with the symptoms it's got and considering I've got headgaskets for it and need to replace the clutch while it's out.
On 2/28/2022 at 4:17 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:GD's toothcount suggestion is dead on. Search online for t'count for that engine. You guys are in the middle of summer....but still doubt a tooth off is gonna cause overheating...
make sure it has an OEM style thermostat with the large wax capsule, make sure there's no debris build-up between the radiator and the a/c condenser, 'burp' the cooling system well, etc.
Tbh I've never really spent too much time trying to "burp the coolant system besides running the engine with the cap off, will air in the system stop circulation?
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1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Count the number of teeth between the marks and compare to the specification in the manual.
You can only be a WHOLE tooth off, not a partial. Remember that. Ask yourself if moving it would make it closer or farther off?
In any case it sounds like it's very close. This would not cause overheating. Don't overlook a possible head gasket failure in progress. Happens all the time.
GD
Yeah I mean distance it's only about half a tooth away from the mark (the mark lands between 2 teeth). Moving it would make it an equal distance past the tooth.
Man I've really been hoping it's not a headgasket. Only just put this engine in and done under 10,000ks on it but everything seems to be pointing at a headgasket failure
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I've been having some issues with my ej, overheating and high fuel usage. I ook the timing cover off to check the water pump and noticed the timing seems to be off by about 1 tooth.
If I line up one cam and the crank with their marks then the remaining cam doesn't line up but moving the cam 1 tooth causes it to move past the mark and still not line up.
The timing belt shouldn't be stretched (if they even stretch) since it's only done about 10,000ks. Should I just move the belt that one extra tooth and see if it changes anything?
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On 10/21/2021 at 7:36 PM, el_freddo said:
Leaky head gaskets would be suspect number 1 I think.
EJs can pop the head gasket that only leaks a tiny bit or only leaks under certain conditions.
If you don’t know the history of the HGs I’d suggest it’s tie for replacement.
Cheers
Bennie
Man I sure hope it's not the headgasket as the motor only just went in to replace a motor with leaky headgaskets
but I haven't been contemplating taking the motor out to replace the clutch so that will be a good time to do the headgaskets. Will a compressions test pick up on a leaky headgasket?
On 10/21/2021 at 11:05 PM, DaveT said:Any air in the cooling system is bad. It doesn't take much to collect in the water pump and stop the circulation of the coolant. This is bad for head gaskets. My experience with older engine models you don't get away with this condition not leading to a headgasket up reseal.
Surely by now all the air would be out of the cooling system? Or can air work it's way in at any time?
On 10/22/2021 at 1:57 AM, Numbchux said:What EJ22?
What indications that it's overheating? Factory gauge? Aftermarket gauge? Infrared thermometer? Does the heat work when it happens?
Use a radiator test kit to pressurize the system and look for your leak. Could easily be introducing air into the system, which is causing your problems.
Phase 1 (1989) ej22e? Well tbh I've only had a block temp gauge to go off but I can certainly tell when an engine is running hotter besides the block temp reading considerable higher, a large amount of coolant overflowing from the radiator and the smell of a cooking motor
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Having trouble keeping my ej22 cool in my l series. I've fitted an aluminium (cheap ebay one) ej radiator and have both thermo fans hooked up together.
It runs fine on the highway and in cooler weather but when the ambient temperature starts getting over 20⁰C the temperature will start climbing, especially on the beach and in stop start traffic.
There is a slight coolant leak that I can't find, used maybe 1 litre on a recent 700km trip. Could that cause overheating?
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Just curious If there were different driveshafts for the l series?
The reason I ask is I bought some kelpro cv boots for a set of repco front driveshafts I purchased not too long ago and the boots are about 10mm too small in diameter on the large end for the cv cups. This caused me to check the diameter of the old driveshafts I've had laying around and they are smaller (the correct size for the kelpro boots I bought). I thought maybe repco just decided to make them bigger but I went back instore and the shafts they have are of the smaller size.
So was there a particular model that for some reason had heavier duty driveshafts and I've somehow ended up with them? I'd like to find out so I can try and possibly get some kelpro boots to suit instead of the crappy universal ones I'll have to use for now.
The car is a 5spd 89 touring wagon.
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55 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Nah not your fault I was being to lazy to take notes form multiple replies. Lol.
So when it’s “not working”, it always clicks but doesn’t spin?
If you think the battery, terminals and wiring are grand...which the other starter does imply....then
Replace the brushes and clean the starter motor internals (not the solenoid, the actual starter motor).
Nah i definitely made it more complicated than need be haha. Yeah when it'd "not working" in the car it clicking ever time throwing the gear out but only spins maybe every 10 key turn.
I have taken the whole thing apart and cleaned everything including the brushes and armature and whatever else is in there but maybe the brushes do need replacing, they look fine although obviously worn.
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Sorry if I didn't explain it very clearly, I'll break it down as best I can.
Starter was working intermittently, most of the time it was just clicking. Tested it out if the car and it was the same. Took the whole starter motor apart, cleaned every contact surface and replaced the solenoid plunger and contacts with new ones. Still doesn't work when fitted to the car but now works fine when tested on the bench (gear is thrown out and motor spins). Test fitted a totally different starter motor from a newer vehicle and it works 100%.
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On 10/21/2020 at 11:33 PM, idosubaru said:
I'd guess it has an aftermarket starter from years ago (maybe before you owned it?).
If it's a Subaru unit I'd get another used Subaru starter and swap the new contacts/plunger into it.
Or take it apart and start tracing power through it to look for a problem area if you're interested in trying to repair it. I've never gotten beyond contacts/brushes for electric motors and starters so I'm not sure what that means but I assume you can apply power as needed, and work your way from the terminals inward, one step at a time looking for continuity and power loss each step of the way. Outer terminal to inside of the terminal - does it have continuity/power? Then move on to the next shortest distance....etc. And ask around for how to test windings.
It's not the original unit but it is a "fuji heavy industries" unit. Weirdly enough I've got the starter to work 100% while out of the car but when I fit it to the car it still does the same thing, just clicks. The other starter motor i have that fits but isn't the right one for the car works fine though! I'm confused even more now. Could it be the ignition relay isn't supplying enough amps and the newer starter requires less therefore it works?
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Alright so I just fitted new contacts and a new plunger and also took the motor apart and gave all the contact points a good sand/clean and it's still got the same issue
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Well I narrowed it down to the starter being the issue, fitted a starter from a liberty and it works 100% besides the grinding if you don't let go of the key quick enough haha. Managed to get my hands on some contacts and a plunger so I'll replace those and see if it fixes the problem.
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So I've recently been having trouble with my starter motor. Sometimes (not often) it will start right up and other times it try for about 1 minute and it will eventually start. Now I am hearing a "clicking" like the solenoid is working but the starter doesn't turn. I took it apart and clean/adjusted the solenoid contacts but it made no difference. I pulled the gear out by hand and it seemed smooth also the plunger seems in good condition and moves easily. Will/can an auto electrician rebuild it? Id attempt to rebuild it myself but I plan on using the car soon and I can't get parts quickly. Should I just buy a new one? Id prefer not to since it's a genuine on.
Cheers
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How would an ej22 manual with low range l series compare to a h6 outback auto without low range? I've currently got a lifted ej22 l series and I'm thinking of upgrading to a 2005ish h6 outback auto. I would eventually lift the outback 2-4 inches when funds allow it.
I'm leaning towards the outback as it's newer, more powerful, safer, better on road, better parts availability. I don't do any extreme off roading but I do a lot of sand driving and occasionally go to the local 4x4 parks.
Basically it comes down to will the outback without low range still be just as capable in the sand and occasionally doing some medium difficulty 4wd "only" tracks?
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16 hours ago, el_freddo said:
There’s a set of test connectors, black from memory that you click together, then turn the ignition to the ON position without starting the engine.
The check engine light will flash codes that you need to record. Long flash = 10, short flash = 1. Then reference any codes you have as to what they are.
The ECU will list in order of where to start first, and it will loop until the ignition is off. You’ll also hear the fuel pump pulsating - on for several seconds, off for the same and so on.
If there are no codes you’ll get a consistent single flash sequence that tells you the market designation of that ECU.
Cheers
Bennie
I found the connectors I believe they consist of 2 green and 2 black according to someone else. Only problem is the guy who did the ej22 swap seems to have cut of one of the black connector. Any idea what colour the wire should be so i can try and find it?
1994 Legacy GT tailshaft compatibility
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I'm after a new tailshaft for my legacy. I know that subaru tailshafts aren't technically rebuildable and that they can actually be rebuilt but I can't find anyone locally to do it so im wondering what my options are?
Is the gt tailshaft the same as the none gt lagacy? Someone has stated that newer gen driveshafts are compatible, is this true and if so which ones?