scoobydube

You may be able to buy the 88 wiring with the used 88 distributor from the source that I mentioned. One additional electrical issue that I have on my 86, is the hot wire from the alternator, gets hot, gets brittle and breaks within about 6 inches of the alternator or at the alternator. Then the engine runs on the battery until the battery is dead. Then is won't crank the engine over and everything is as dead as a door nail. Also, both distributor cap bolts need to be down tight. There are issues with the diaphragm not allowed the forward screw, not able to be fully tightened.

It would be the 85 to 94 EA 82 engine series. I am assuming that nothing improved with the loyales as I was working on an 86 turbo. An additional note, I squirted as much lithium grease in each end of the cable as I could get, before installation. After installation, I noticed considerably less resistance in the operation of the clutch.

CLUTCH CABLES last about the life of 1 1/2 clutches, or about 150,000 miles. I am leaving a few tips here for your future search when you can't find a mechanic who can figure this one out. I came up with two tricks to help considerably in this nightmare of a project. The first trick is to fashion your own spring compressor out of rebar tie wire, going from one side at one end, to the opposite side at the opposite end, with a circular loop, and then do the mirror image for the other side of the spring. Set the spring in a vice with a 10mm socket over the rod end, in order to compress the spring to be as short as possible. You will have to remove the spring from the clutch lever arm in order to do this, and then reinstall the spring with the compressor still attached, before attempting final reassembly. The second trick is to fashion two 6 mm x 35 mm bolts with a filed down point on the end, to replace the two 6 mm x 30 mm bolts in place. The lower one of those bolts should be inserted in it's proper hole in the loose base retainer for the spring, before the spring is reinstalled between your loose clutch lever are and your loose base retainer for the spring. The reason for the spring compressor is make it possible to slip both the brake lever arm and the holed end of the base retainer, over the main lateral pivot bolt for both the clutch and the brake. The reason for the pointed end bolts is that you won't likely be able to use the existing bolts and get them to find the hole to which they are anchored in the anchor plate. So to help with terminology. From left to right, at the front of the clutch assembly, you have the spring assembly, the base retainer for the spring, the actual clutch cable Tee end with two holes, and then the anchor plate. The clutch lever arm has three attachments. One to the main lateral pivot bolt, one to the back end of the compressor spring, and one to the back end of the clutch cable. Subaru no longer makes these cables and there is only one supplier. Those clutch cables are quite stiff due to sitting around for 10 years. Which makes them difficult to work with. Although the Subaru manual says to remove the entire brake and clutch assembly from the firewall, I removed all 4 of those bolts and it would not budge. Furthermore, you are not going to get it very far from the fire wall with that assembly because the right end of it extends over the top of the steering column to the accelerator.

The trip computer beep also comes on when your power steering fluid is very low.

Stuff all the synthetic grease into the old bearings that you can. You might use some 2000 grit sandpaper and see what you can take off on the CV axle.

Lower the lift. Problem solved.

Helicoils are a joke. The solid steel inserts, by whatever brand, and with thread lock on them are the only way to go. Don't over drill the hole and it is better to be too shallow and grind off the excess, than too deep and spring a leak.

Why not just get an 88 distributor from Johns Subaru in Gaston Oregon? The brains in them, burn out every 100k or so. In my 86 GL10, there are two relay switches beneath the dash, that can cause the engine to not fire. They don't last forever, and should be replaced when it is in your garage, instead of paying for a tow off of some mountain top. The black fusible link also allows the engine to run. Mine went out on some back road in BC. The condensor/thingamajig that runs from the coil to the engine ground, can blow and not allow the engine to run. Coils can blow and should produce 12 volts. A cracked distributor cap may also cause the engine to quit, like it did with mine on a snowy pass at 15deg F in Colorado. Corroded fuel injector connectors will cause problems, particularly with the #1 cylinder. The black box over your knees can go out. The engine to body ground can get overheated, brittle and lose it's ability to pass sufficient current to run the engine. That happens at the screw to the body. Just wait until your clutch cable goes out. You don't know what problems are until you have to replace a clutch cable.

If you are getting the "beep of imminent death" from your ECU, when driving around, or even on startup, then your timing has issues. Various issues include, 1. rotor screw dropped out, 2. timing belts have never been tightened which should be done every 5000 to 8000 miles, 3. one side has skipped a tooth due to loose timing belts. Other symptoms include, engine power fluctuating, idles at a lower rpm than usual, less than normal power, runs rough on startup, heavy valve lifter noise. All of these indicate a timing issue.

Johns Subaru Auto Body in Gaston Oregon has a whole box of subaru distributors, of which at least a half dozen would fit the 86. (503) 985-7110 In that distributor, you have swing weights in the bottom that can get worn, you have tiny ball bearings that can dig into two plates that makes your vacuum advance not work smoothly, you have the vacuum mechanism that can go out and cause it to run roughly or not start at all, and you have the black brains on the top. The black brains go out often.

When you buy the entire CV axial, the boots will last for a couple hundred thousand miles. What the subaru mechanics like to do it coat them with a fluid that causes them to disintegrate in about 3 weeks, so you will be back in 4 weeks to have even more work done. It is generally a waste of time to put new boots on a high mileage CV axial. Replace the entire assembly.

Although I recently had similar symptoms, I finally read the trouble code and got 14. Copilot told me that my #1 cylinder injector was malfunctioning. Upon inspection, there was lots of white corrosion inside of the connector. Scratching as much of that corrosion off, not only made the engine run normal again, but it meant that I did not have to go shopping for another car. Win-Win.

An EGR red light on your dash would indicate that either your EGR valve has issues or your EGR solenoid has issues. A faulty EGR setup can cause the problems that you describe, according to the Subaru manual and CoPilot.

Your descriptions sounds like a problem I had when the Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor in the exhaust needed replacing. $25 You also might want to change out all of the relay switches under the dash over your left knee cap. Make sure all the breather hoses are soft and get a good seal, as the rock hard breather hoses on top of the engine no longer seal. See my thread on Rock Hard Breather Hoses. Make sure that the timing advance vacuum on the distributor still holds a vacuum when you suck on the inlet. Take apart the distributor if it is not an electronic distributor, and make sure all of the swing weights are not worn on their pivot, have grease on them and they swing properly. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked. Verify that the engine problems do not occur only when you are running accessories. If accessories cause the engine problems then you need to change out your engine ground at it's left front connection to the frame, and also look for rock hard electrical wires running from your + positive battery terminal to the bottom side of the fusible link box as it loses it's ability to carry current.

The engine develops more power and responds quicker as a result of improving the suction in this breather system, for some odd reason.