slideways

Some may remember me posting last week about my deer incident. Got it running and all that. Just wondering what it takes to get the airbag system back up to snuff. I can get a new steering wheel with the airbag for $65. Does anything else need to be replaced, like sensors or the control module? It's annoying taking sharp turns with open flaps in my steering wheel. Guess I could duct tape it Also, any good way to get rid of that nasty smell?

I'll check it out. Its a 93 legacy. When I hit bambi's mom, all of my front lights were smashed so it could have shorted for a brief moment. Thanks for the input.

It is most likely from the deer I hit a couple weeks ago, but I can't find any pinched wires. I've examined the harness all round the front end and I can;t seem to find anything that is stretched or pinched anywhere. If the blinker unit is bad, do they still illuminate? There is no klicking going on. What should I look for with a test of the turn signal unit with my multimeter? All the fuses are fine on the inside fuse panel.

My gremlin is eluding me. MY turnlamps turn on but do not blink. Can the relay that controls their blinking cause this? Can a short cause this? I'm just trying to narrow this down.

I reccommend using a high quality brake fluid like motul or super blue racing. It made a big difference for me in pedal feel. IMO, its $14 well spent.

Hey all, been a member for a long time but haven't been around due to school and summer work out of state. But anyways, here's the deal. A couple weeks ago I smoked a deer at a high rate of speed. That's a long story in itself so I won't go there. The damage was mediocre though. Airbag went off, radiator, condensor and fans got pushed into the engine a bit, and it busted up three of the five timing covers. The timing belt also gauged. Since then I've replaced the t-belt, covers, straightened out the lower radiator support(best I could), mounted used radiator and fans, different bummper assembly, headlights and turnlamps. I finally got it running today; its been tough with my schedule at school. The problem is, now my lights are acting all goofy. All the turn lamps light up, but they do not blink anymore. The taillights won't come on with the headlights but will when I hit the brakes. I've yet to really dive into it with my multimeter as I was outside in 34 degree weather all day and was sick of it. I'm just looking for a point in the right direction to try to save some time with this problem. I didn't see any obvious pinched wires with the turnlamps in front since I hit the deer perfecly square and most of the damage was in the center. Any ideas would be appreciated. Oh yeah, its a 93 legacy AWD 5MT

How about from an '02 WRX, cause I am pretty shure the radiator in my legacy can't handle forced induction.

They are faily simple to replace. A few bolts on the mounting points on the inside, and the toughest part is prying the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I used wd-40 and a six foot concrete bar when I first took them off. If they have been removed before, they should come easier. Now I can get them out with a breaker bar. But all in all, it should be faily simple if you've turned wrenches before.

I have a 93 legacy 5mt which needed a rebuild due to the shot 1-2 syncro. I pulled it myself and would have liked to rebuild it myself, but that presented several issues. First of all, the gears and syncros are press-fit on the main and drive pinion shafts. It takes a hydralic press to get them apart. I am not shure about your 91, but I would think its the same. It took the tranny shop, which has done subie's before, three hours to get it apart. Aside from that, there are clearances that must be measured and properly sized snap rings, shims and such must be fitted. I am pretty ballsy when it comes to taking my car apart, but I left that one to the proffessionals. Total cost for the rebiuld was $1182 which included a one year warranty. They did not replace any of the four big bearings since there was only ninety some thousand on the car at the time, and they cost $80-120 apeice, . I figure I saved $600-800 by taking it in and out myself, which included a new clutch, resurfaced flywheel, new aluminum plate on the back of the engine to replace the plastic one that leaked, and other gaskets and such. I looked into having someone do just the pressing for me, but I couldn't find anyone that knew how to do it and only perfom that part of the work. It mad me mad because I had the tranny apart and both the shafts sitting on my work bench. If you can find someone to do it, I say go for it, and I'd be jeleous:boohoo:

I've had great luck with an excide orbital battery. Same as the optima, just different company. Mine is still going after four years of running a two amplifier, 500 watt system in my car. I just routed a four gauge cable from the alternater to the battery, and the same to the chassis ground, which also helped with the dimming lights.

I guess I always think the worst in thses scenarios, since that is usually how my luck runs. The front c-v shafts were new last summer, but I'll check them out anyways. It did seems that the noise came from furthur back but we'll see. I appreciate the input.

I have to disagree. Those motor and tranny setups are regularly sold stock in Japan at about 280 hp, on the same turbo. Due to our emissions laws, especially in California, the WRX is fitted with three catalitic converters. The close-coupled cat on the up-pipe is of most concern since it robs the turbo of much needed energy, and could dissolve the turbo if a peice went into the turbo. If you want more power but do not want to get hog wild, I feel that Vishnu's Stage Zero is the best bet. It will give you about 40 hp at the wheels which is huge. The kit includes a piggy-back ecu chip (I believe it is a Unichip, but Vishnu tunes it), catless up-pipe, new crank pully, belts and plugs. At about $1200, or last I checked, that is a bargain. I also have to disagree about the transmission. Many people have no problems running 250 hp at the wheels with the transmission. It is all in how you drive it. Dropping the clutch at five grand at the drag strip is definatley misuse of the car. With the traction of four wheels, it is rediculous to expect any transmission to hold up to that abuse. Many people whine about it becasue that is what they are doing to their machines and breaking gears. This just is not an issue in two wheel drive cars. A dealor can only deny you warranty on the tranny if its failure is a direct result of your modifications or misuse. Otherwise it is unlawful for them to do so. Same goes for the rest of your modifications. About ten hp can be gained from the exhaust, depending if you want to go catless and how much noise you can stand. Sport Compact Car had just under 250 hp at the wheels with the stock intercooler. They upgraded to an APS TMIC and found little or no gains in real world testing. Just going off of what I read.

Bad things come to those who screw around. Anyways, two weeks ago I was at home and we got a nice half inch of wet snow. I thought it would be fun to go to the huge parking lot at the the local softball complex. So I was whipping around with power slides and doughnuts in my 93 legacy awd 5mt. I was spinning on axis to the right in first gear at about 5 grand, when all of a sudden, the car shuddered REALLY bad. I stopped for a few minutes and tried to move again, still turned to the right slightly. Loud knocks were felt, coming from the tranny area. So there I sat for about twenty minutes. I drove off without the car uttering a peep. A day or two later I was driving with the radio off and when I made sharp right turns and accelerated through the turns, I noticed a subtle turk, turk, turk (best way I can describe it:-\ ). It was more pronounced when the car was cold. So what happened? I am thinking either viscous coupling or front diff as the initial bucking seemed to come from the front, but I'm not totally shure. I'm shure with wet snow and a not completely frozen surface of the pavement, decent traction was to be had where the tires had already flung the snow away. This leads me to believe the viscous coupling was worked pretty badly. On the other hand the Redline 75w90ns oil in my tranny has seen roughly 36k miles, 24k of them being extremely rough ones, where it was primarily accelerating up to 40 to 50 and back down again in less than one mile to three miles, in and out of country driveways and such. My point is, could deteriorated oil have lead to front diff damage if the torque at the diff was routed through one wheel for an extended period of time? That wheel would have been spinning at 30 -40 mph. At this point, I would rather replace the viscous coupling since I could just take the transfer case off, and I don't really want to take my tranny back out. Any input would be appreciated. Alslo forgive any gramatical errors as I am slightly (maybe more than) drunk, since finals are over.

I know there is a company out there that performs manual transmission conversions on the svx. They said it felt like a different car. Much more fun to drive and felt lighter that it actually was. With the humongous power potential of the svx motor, it can be a killer combination. Since the eg33 is esentially an ej22 with two extra cyinders, forged pistons and rods are readily availible. Those coupled with some forced induction would produce massive horsepower (500 or better). An sti driveline is definately a go, and with that, you would have one killer sube. The only thing I would worry about is the gear ratios of the 6 speed not matching the engine. But I wouldn't know. Good luck.

I have used the XtraVisions; definately a good buy. I was told that they did something to improve the beam patterns or something to that effect. Anyways, they create more usable light with the same power usage.

My 93 legacy is cable operated, and I do not know if they have changed it on the newer models. Anyways, if it is cable operated, it comes out of the transmission on that side, just furthur back.

I do agree subaru needs to redesign the 5MT. The slow speed and cold/humid weather performance is sub-par. But when I drive my sister's saturn, which is a manual, I DO feel a bit better about what I have. I can't complain about shifting on the top end. When I am messing around at high revs, I have no problem shifting as fast as I can pull the shifter. Maybe newer syncros and redline oil have something to do with it. True, autos shift faster than manuals, usually, but one can't deny the ability to keep the engine on boil better with the MT. It is neat how the 4EAT stalls to about 2500 rpm when you stomp it. As far as lockup in the 4EAT, my '90 legacy locked up at 45 mph when I stopped accelerating. I do not know if they have changed that on the newer models. One cannot look solely at rpm when considering gas mileage since it is a function of rpm and throttle position. When at a given speed, higher rpm would mean more torque being produced and less throttle needed, as opposed to lower rpm, and vice versa. Just my $.02

Just going off what I read in SCC.

I used some large nuts behind the speakers in the front to make them clear the windows. There is plenty of room in front of the speakers. When I first got my legacy, the stock stereo went right out the window. Installed Pioneer head unit with cerwin vega, vega series 6.5's all around. Sounded much better. The largest improvement came when I installed an Alpine V12 four channel. Gave me chills when I first heard it, and it still does. A cd player cannot compare to the clean power of a four channel with high quality power and patch cables.

If you drop the clutch at anything over 3500 rpm's in an STI, you are spinning all four tires. Thats what I'm screamin. And thats only 300 hp. Imagine the white smoke with 468 hp APS has gotten out of the motor so far.

There definately is a speedo cable, disconnecting it was part of dropping my tranny. I am on my second subaru now (both 1G legacys)and they have both made loud noises and read way too fast when its real cold. You know somethings up when it reads 120 at 3K in 3rd. Anyways, all I do is blast the heater and it goes away when the cabin warms up. Seems to do no harm.

Remote starters that work with manual transmissions do exist, they are just tougher to find. Here is one company I found that produces models for manual trannys. http://www.designtech-intl.com:8080/merchant.ihtml?id=19&step=2

Well said. Like alias20035 said, bigger brakes are the only way to reduce possible warpage, but ultimately, its up to the driver. Perrin makes a really nice 4 piston front setup with wilwood calipers, slotted rotors, stainless brakelines, and good fluid for about $650. You can make those glow orange, won't fade or warp. They are for the hardcore though.

One thing I forgot. The silcone wiper blades stay more flexible in extreme cold. If all you are looking for is water to be repeled from your windsheild, go with rain-x. With the silicone wipers, your windsheild only repels water where they touch.

The blades are made of silcone. They deposit a very thin layer on the windsheild which repels water like Rain-X. The first company to come out with silicone blades was PIAA. I bought one for my drivers side to try it out. Worked well, but very pricey($25!!!) and not servicable. Triple-edge came out with silicone blades and they have replacable wiper elements. I bought the elements for $7, and they worked better and held up longer than the PIAA blade. With both, it does take a few wipes for them to "warm up" so to speak. I do like them and will buy them again.