dwalker

Thanks for the info about buying a vaccuum pump.. Have a compressor already.. Saving a lot then... Oil comsumpution is about .5 qt every 1500 miles... but as I said, no buring, no leaks, nothing in coolant... A Mystery. :-\ !! D-

Why is it that these J25 engines "eat" oil...???? sure seems odd to me and never figured it out... What about putting in a heaver oil? dan

Thank you .. looks like I'll need to get it vaccumed.... not cheap... dealer wants about $200 for the vaccum and recharge... guess better get it done right the first time.. Thanks alot..... On a side note after about 3000 miles on my rebuild all going good.... except the oil thing... No leaks, no buring oil, nothing in coolant... all good,, but after a 1500 miles or so It seem like I need to add oil.. Oh well. Life goes on Dan

Greeting to Everyone: During a rebuild of the J25 engine in my outback, I had to disconnect the A/C. Now no cold nothing... I have the gauges to charge it,, but the question is... Do I really need to "pull vaccum" on the system before re-charging?? Thanks for any comments Dan Chicago

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp Could try the site above, it's the Subaru Technical information site. You can download service manuals including wiring diagrams. Only thing, It's not free. You have to purchase subscriptions that last from 72 hours up to 1 year. The manuals are in pdf format and you can download up to 20 manuals per hour. I did this when I rebuilt my 96 OBW, it was worth the money spent. These are the actual manuals that the dealers use when servicing your car. You could get the schematics there. Then do a reverse engineering of the wires on the radio and use wire clips on the orginal harness so that you don't have to cut off the OEM plug.. Just a thought. Dan in Chicago

Hope everyone is well out there.. in Subaru Land...... It's been around 1200 miles since the engine rebuild.. All good.. we'll I think it is.. Only thing is that it's really hard to tell if the oil level is ok or not. Changed the oil after about 500 miles.. boy was it really dirty for a newly built engine... Maybe it's just all of the stuff inside getting worn in.. since most new parts internally. But sure seems that the oil leve is weird.. Ok then not... Not buring oil, not oil in coolant, no drips, no leaks, nothing !!! We'll just a note on the after math of the rebuild. So far the engine is making a lot of that "slapping" noise I've been reading about.. maybe it will come in abour 30K miles.. who knows.. Runs good for now.. Everyone take it easy out there. !!! Dan in Chicago

Engine Rebuild....... Have a 96 OB and the Head Gaskets had failed at 159,000 miles. I did all of the work myself. Pulled the engine and did a complete tear down, new main bearings, connecting arm bearings, oil pump, water pump, took the heads to a machine shop that builds race engines and had them machined. New rings, complete gasket set, new igniter, coil, cam and crankshaft sensors and timing belt. Pulled the engine out, wasn't that hard. Only real issue was a wiring issue at the very end.. crossed the camshaft sensor with the #2 injector wire. Not hard to do. Total rebuild cost was about $2000, which includes all OEM parts, fluids, engine hoist rentals (2) and few new tools. So.. It can be done... and a lot better if you have the patients.. Dan Chicago

Agree on the head gasket.. Have a 96 OBL and I did a complete engine rebuild. Pulled the motor and all.. Not too difficult to do, but I've learned a few things about the rebuild.. Worth the effort & time. Best way to properly repair it, in my opinion. Dan Chicago

Sorry Frag....... I guess my brain wasn't working on all cylinders during the last part of this rebuild. Update... The wire(s) that were also giving problems was one pin on the connector to the coil was loose, the plastic connector to the ignitor was also loose and finally one of the connectors from the engine wiring harness was loose. Once all pushed in and fixed, car runs well. Put on 100 miles and so far so good. But I'll feel much better after about 1000 miles or so. Seems ok though. I do greatly appreciate all of the advice from the members who responded and helped me out on this one. Thanks again... One thing for sure... I sure do know this subaru engine.. Next project .......... just some light maintenance on the rear drive axle... NO WIRES !!! Dan in Chicago .........

Update;; Glen; We'll you'll never guess what happened next? First off the reason for the P0340 camshaft sensor error.......... When I took it off I crossed the #2 Injector Connector with the Camshaft Sensor connector. That is why the pin numbers on the schematic didn't match up.. that's why the incorrect ohms readings and so forth. Next thing is that the harness that connects the engine wire harness to the rest of the car.. One of the connectors wasn't making good contact. Once these two things were figured out.... the Monster Lives !!!! I'll write more later... with more details.. but that is the quick and dirty version.. dan in chicago

Glen: Very nice to talk with you tonight.. You want some of my cold weather? We'll here is what I did: Disconnected the wiring harness from the ECM / ECU Tested both pins on the camshaft sensor to engine gnd. Nothing.... No reading at all... So what does this mean..? bad or good...?? Also attached one of the meter's lead (common) to the engine compartment and the other lead (read one or positive) and touched it to a few places inside the passenger cabin.. like the bolts holding the seats down, the ecm bolts.. got around 1.3 - 1.5 ohms resistance there.. So I guess that is good.. Dan

Glen; I could call you if you it's ok.. I'm in chicago time soo... Send me an email at muwew@hotmail.com if you want to discuss this.. thanks. Dan

Just another thought......... the computer is indicationg that the engine has 25 rpm's. Sure sounds like a short some where, why else would the computer read 25rpms......... ?

And the results are: PIN #70 With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 70 on the ECM Connector. .5 ohms [*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector: .2 ohms PIN #2 Pin # 2 with the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 2 on the ECM Connector. .4 ohms [*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector: .3 ohms Are these normal readings... ??? Dan:confused:

Cougar (glen) I'll try that later tonight.. Not too difficult to do... Q: You said if the harness is good I should see almost a "short" ? What would the meter read ? Thanks Dan