dwalker
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Posts posted by dwalker
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Why is it that these J25 engines "eat" oil...????
sure seems odd to me and never figured it out... What about putting in a heaver oil?dan
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Thank you .. looks like I'll need to get it vaccumed.... not cheap... dealer wants about $200 for the vaccum and recharge... guess better get it done right the first time.. Thanks alot..... On a side note after about 3000 miles on my rebuild all going good.... except the oil thing... No leaks, no buring oil, nothing in coolant... all good,, but after a 1500 miles or so It seem like I need to add oil.. Oh well. Life goes on
Dan
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Greeting to Everyone:
During a rebuild of the J25 engine in my outback, I had to disconnect the A/C. Now no cold
nothing... I have the gauges to charge it,, but the question is... Do I really need to "pull vaccum" on the system before re-charging?? Thanks for any comments
Dan
Chicago
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http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp
Could try the site above, it's the Subaru Technical information site. You can download service manuals including wiring diagrams. Only thing, It's not free. You have to purchase subscriptions that last from 72 hours up to 1 year. The manuals are in pdf format and you can download up to 20 manuals per hour. I did this when I rebuilt my 96 OBW, it was worth the money spent. These are the actual manuals that the dealers use when servicing your car. You could get the schematics there. Then do a reverse engineering of the wires on the radio and use wire clips on the orginal harness so that you don't have to cut off the OEM plug..
Just a thought.
Dan in Chicago
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Hope everyone is well out there.. in Subaru Land......
It's been around 1200 miles since the engine rebuild.. All good.. we'll I think it is.. Only thing is that it's really hard to tell if the oil level is ok or not. Changed the oil after about 500 miles.. boy was it really dirty for a newly built engine... Maybe it's just all of the stuff inside getting worn in.. since most new parts internally. But sure seems that the oil leve is weird.. Ok then not... Not buring oil, not oil in coolant, no drips, no leaks, nothing !!! We'll just a note on the after math of the rebuild. So far the engine is making a lot of that "slapping" noise I've been reading about.. maybe it will come in abour 30K miles.. who knows.. Runs good for now..
Everyone take it easy out there. !!!
Dan in Chicago
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Engine Rebuild....... Have a 96 OB and the Head Gaskets had failed at 159,000 miles. I did all of the work myself. Pulled the engine and did a complete tear down, new main bearings, connecting arm bearings, oil pump, water pump, took the heads to a machine shop that builds race engines and had them machined. New rings, complete gasket set, new igniter, coil, cam and crankshaft sensors and timing belt. Pulled the engine out, wasn't that hard. Only real issue was a wiring issue at the very end.. crossed the camshaft sensor with the #2 injector wire. Not hard to do. Total rebuild cost was about $2000, which includes all OEM parts, fluids, engine hoist rentals (2) and few new tools.
So.. It can be done... and a lot better if you have the patients..
Dan
Chicago
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Agree on the head gasket.. Have a 96 OBL and I did a complete engine rebuild. Pulled the motor and all.. Not too difficult to do, but I've learned a few things about the rebuild.. Worth the effort & time. Best way to properly repair it, in my opinion.
Dan
Chicago
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Sorry Frag....... I guess my brain wasn't working on all cylinders during the last part of this rebuild. Update... The wire(s) that were also giving problems was one pin on the connector to the coil was loose, the plastic connector to the ignitor was also loose and finally one of the connectors from the engine wiring harness was loose. Once all pushed in and fixed, car runs well. Put on 100 miles and so far so good. But I'll feel much better after about 1000 miles or so. Seems ok though.
I do greatly appreciate all of the advice from the members who responded and helped me out on this one. Thanks again...
One thing for sure... I sure do know this subaru engine.. Next project .......... just some light maintenance on the rear drive axle... NO WIRES !!!
Dan in Chicago .........
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Update;;
Glen;
We'll you'll never guess what happened next?
First off the reason for the P0340 camshaft sensor error.......... When I took it off I crossed the #2 Injector Connector with the Camshaft Sensor connector. That is why the pin numbers on the schematic didn't match up.. that's why the incorrect ohms readings and so forth. Next thing is that the harness that connects the engine wire harness to the rest of the car.. One of the connectors wasn't making good contact. Once these two things were figured out.... the Monster Lives !!!! I'll write more later... with more details.. but that is the quick and dirty version..
dan in chicago
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Glen:
Very nice to talk with you tonight.. You want some of my cold weather?
We'll here is what I did:
Disconnected the wiring harness from the ECM / ECU
Tested both pins on the camshaft sensor to engine gnd. Nothing.... No reading at all... So what does this mean..? bad or good...??
Also attached one of the meter's lead (common) to the engine compartment and the other lead (read one or positive) and touched it to a few places inside the passenger cabin.. like the bolts holding the seats down, the ecm bolts.. got around 1.3 - 1.5 ohms resistance there.. So I guess that is good..
Dan
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Glen;
I could call you if you it's ok.. I'm in chicago time soo... Send me an email at muwew@hotmail.com if you want to discuss this.. thanks.
Dan
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Just another thought......... the computer is indicationg that the engine has 25 rpm's. Sure sounds like a short some where, why else would the computer read 25rpms......... ?
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And the results are:
PIN #70
- With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 70 on the ECM Connector.
- .5 ohms
[*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector:
- .2 ohms
- .5 ohms
PIN #2
- Pin # 2 with the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 2 on the ECM Connector.
- .4 ohms
[*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector:
- .3 ohms
- .4 ohms
Are these normal readings... ???
Dan:confused:
- With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 70 on the ECM Connector.
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Cougar (glen)
I'll try that later tonight.. Not too difficult to do... Q: You said if the harness is good I should see almost a "short" ? What would the meter read ?
Thanks Dan
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Yet another cold update here in Chicago.........
Did yet another ohms resistance check on the Camshaft postion sensor wiring harness. I got this test from a tech who works at yet another car dealer. In turn he got it from a website that the dealer uses for trouble shooting problems. So anyhow... details on test I did...............
The test title was
10AA1 - " CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND ECM CONNECTOR"
- Turn ignition switch to OFF
- Disconnect connector from camsaft position sensor
- measure resitance of harness between camshaft position sensor connector and engine ground.
- Connector & Terminal
- (E15) No 1. to Engine Ground: Is the resitance more than 100 K ohms ? If Yes Repair Harness & connector...
The answer here is Yes.. measure at 200.6 K Ohms.. so I guess this finally means that the wiring harness under the intake manifold is bad.. I guess I'll buy this and try it and see what happens...
Any thoughts from anyone on this idea?
Still Perplexed..
In Chicago Dan
- Turn ignition switch to OFF
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Cougar;
I have a RMS meter than can read in Hz.. So in therory ... if I put the meter on Hz reading and then what? put the leads on connector that connects to the Camshaft sensor... and then try to crank it and see what happens..? But do not have the sensor connected... Correct ??
Dan
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This is really getting confusing.. When I intially took the engine out of the car for the overahaul procedure... I did not do anything with the wiring inside the care or to the connector to the ECM. So I really don't know how the connections would have changed. When connecting the wiring harness that is under the intake manifold to the connectors that connect to the main wiring harness is sorta dummy proof .. Different sizes for each one. So I didn't cross any of the wires... Since my last report I discussed the issue with yet another dealership and they still point to some timing issue indiciating that when you put the timing belt back on, the marks have to be 100% on.. No deviation. So it's still possible that I still don't have the timing on right. So I'll go back to that one. and I still haven't done the test from sensor connector to engine ground with the ECM disconnected. Tomorrow for that test and then again for resetting the timing again.. I'll try but it's better If I have a special tool to hold those two timing sprockets on the left side exactly lined up. Because when putting the timing belt on the sprockets on the left side are under load. Not easy... Geezh.... never had this much problem with changing a few parts out... I'll keep this up to date and posted..
Dan :-\
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So.. what would be next? How to see if the signal pluses as the intake cam sprocket goes by the camshaft sensor? I'll look at the timing belt again... and try it again to see If I can get it perfect. Something for the next few days.
this whole thing is really perplexing... sure seems like the wiring is ok.. so again.. Is it the timing.? Is this motor so sensitive that if it's off that little it won't fire? The hunt goes on..
Dan
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Got the heater out... Here's the results. Between Pin#2 and Pin#70 I got
1.914 K Ohms Resistance. Don't know if that is right, but sounds right because if you ohms test just the camshaft sensor you get close to that resistance value. Also, I thought I would see if there is voltage to the sensor when the key is turned. Yes there is 12.+ volts. Is that to be there? I also got resistance from pin#2 to pin #16, #44 & #96. Have no idea why.... but at this point I am getting rally confused.. So there you have it.. Next step is to have it towed.. but I also have a neighbor who works for Chrysler and it still could be a timing issue. If the timing is off just a little, then it's possible that it is the timing still.. I'll try the timing again tomorrow..
Dan :-\
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Glen if you want I can send you a document I put together during the rebuild of this engine.. A word document..
Dan
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Sounds good, I'll put the ole heater on tomorrow and see what I can see.. I'll keep you posted.. and thank you very much for your time in responding...
Dan
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Glen;;
Maybe this........ Keep the camshaft sensor connected... disconnect the ecm harness and measure the resistance between the two wires from the ECM connector.. In other words ... put one probe on #2 pin and second probe on #7 and measure the restance there.. am I correct ??
Dan:confused:
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Glen; Guess I'm confused & dazed at this point. I disconnected the connector on the ECM and ran an ohms test from the connector of the camshaft sensor to the proper ping on the ECM Connector. That is were I got the .2 ohms resistance. So when you mean test the resistance "across" the sensor.. What would be the procedure? I know I must disconnect the ecm.. then what? jump the two connectors on the sensor end then test the resistance between the two on the ecm connector ??
I'll have to buy more propane for my garage heater... Thanks again... Let me know the right process for this test.. ok ?
Thanks Alot
Dan in :-\
chicago..
email address: muwew@hotmail.com
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Q: I was doing reading on ohms resistance and just wondering,, if the resistance of a circuit / wiring is very low.. ie .2 ohms.. Doesn't that mean that there is no resistance in the wire itself? I took abouut a 3' foot section of wire and ohms resistance tested it.. go .1 ohms. No short or anything a brand new wire.. So... if the resistance in the connection from the camshaft sensor connection to the ECM connector is only .2 ... would that not indicate that it is a good connection and not a shorted out connection? Just really curious about this.. Really cold here in chicago today ... so I was not able to perform the bypass "surgury" test... But will do so over the next few days and report the findings..
Dan
A/C Charging
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks for the info about buying a vaccuum pump.. Have a compressor already.. Saving a lot then...
Oil comsumpution is about .5 qt every 1500 miles... but as I said, no buring, no leaks, nothing in coolant... A Mystery. :-\ !!
D-