Rampage
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Posts posted by Rampage
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3 hours ago, jonathan909 said:
Well, let's not be silly. Not always a bad idea either. At 12V, in relatively low-current and low-impedance circuits like this one, you're at no risk of either shock or affecting the readings. In 12V circuits at high current, there's a burn risk. But here it's not going to matter.
When using a volt meter to test one end of a wire that is open, or has a very high resistance at the other end, touching the probe with your finger will cause voltage from your body to show on the meter. How much voltage depends on how much static your body has built up and how sensitive the meter is.
Also, extra long leads on the meter can pick up stray RF signals from numerous sources and display voltage that is not really there.
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I have no experience with API parts. Moog had good parts in the past, but now I don't know.
Look up the struts HERE and compare prices. They list them with springs and top mount and without.
The only Gabriel I have used are Hijacker Air Shocks on the rear of my pickups, 75 Lincoln Mark IV and 70 Matador.
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For struts I only use KYB.
Short story on cheap struts. About 5 years ago, the coil spring on the left front strut broke on our second 95 RHD Legacy Wagon. I pulled the strut from our 93 parts wagon and put it on the 95. Both front struts on the 93 had been replaced by the PO with cheap aftermarket ones. They were not very old, I could still read the part numbers on them. About 2 weeks later, when my wife got home from the mail route she said the steering wheel was pulling real hard to the left. I found that the perch on the strut that the coil spring sits on had bent down and was rubbing on the tire. It had worn through the steel cords on the fairly new tire. I am really glad she made it home.
I swapped the spring to the original strut and put in back on the 95.
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8 hours ago, bratlife said:
its pretty good and worth the money?
Yes.
Alternators are rebuilt because of bad bearings, brushes, regulators or diodes.
If the one at the dealer only had the brushes, bearings and or diodes replaced and still has the OE regulator, it will be a good one.
If the regulator was replaced with an aftermarket one, then it is questionable of longevity of the proper charge voltage.
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Hook the volt meter to the Pos. 12 volt side of the coil. When you ground the Neg. terminal of the coil, does the 12 volts stay or drop?
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Our 95 had a broken carbon brush that rides on the slip rings. It would charge fine at an idle, but would quit charging at higher RPMs. I think that was due to vibrations.
Check the voltage at an idle and at higher RPMs. It should stay at 13.8 volts with headlights on or off.
The alternator has a built in voltage regulator that can also cause the non charging problem. And it, or leaky diodes can also drain the battery.
I have seen several aftermarket reman alternators output over 20 volts and that causes a lot of problems and repairs.
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Excellent info above.
A Gates timing belt broke in 2 months.
A reman water pump leaked out the weep hole 2 days after I installed it. I put the old one back in.
I have seen the ball bearings fall out of the cheaper idler pulleys.
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11 hours ago, jonathan909 said:
with each of the block bolts I removed there was a little hiss
If you are hearing the hiss when you first loosen the bolt (when the bolt head breaks its seal to the head), I would say your assumption is correct. There is a volume of air between the shank of the bolt and the the bolt hole in the head.
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Probably vacuum. I have heard it too when removing bolts that still had oil on the threads.
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9 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
I build/restore arcades, collect/build/restore retro computers
I used to repair pinball machines and jukeboxes.
My first computer was a Timex Sinclair T1000. Google it. I gave it to one of my nephews when I got an 8086.
I still have a 5X86 that will boot Windows 3.11 (16 bit) or 95 second edition (32 bit). I also have on old Xerox pc that uses 8 inch floppy disks with a dot matrix printer. My 8086 and 8088's are gone. If the disks are still readable, I have IBM DOS and OS/2 on floppy disks. I also have Microsoft DOS and Windows 2, 3 and 3.11 install disks and a copy of 1.
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I have actually found toast and toys in VHS and 8-track players. They go in a ziplock bag and returned to the customer.
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On 3/20/2021 at 10:37 AM, nipper said:
Ive already laughed at the febreeze ones.
Febreze makes my eyes water and makes me sneeze. I'd pass on them too.
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Spock is #1 with Logic.
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On 3/10/2021 at 3:22 PM, lmdew said:
Random dies from what she has told me.
If the engine dies while driving and no codes, knock sensor. But, it usually starts right up.
Fuel filter?
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1 hour ago, brus brother said:
Seems like there should be a software upgrade but according to the Grand Wizard of Volt (member Rampage) the circuitry is fairly complicated.
I'm not quite that good, but thanks.
When I have time I will look into the rear hatch/battery drain thing. The easiest thing so far, is the lock trick.
Right now, for some reason, I am real busy with computers for business and police.
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Try HERE Summit Racing shows the Centric brand rebuild kit for the rear.
Today is 3/5/2021 and the estimated shipping date is 3/29/2021.
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On 3/1/2021 at 2:16 AM, dirty_mech said:
Makes me wonder what other relays I should replace.
I had to replace the Main Relay in our 97. It is a dual contact relay. (2 in one) It was mounted on the bracket beside the fuel pump relay.
Our 95 has over 473 thousand miles on it and still has the original fuel pump relay and main relay.
Don't know if this is what you are hearing, but the air intake system can sometimes make a humming sound. Our 97 was terrible, so I replaced it with a 95 system (from the air filter box to the throttle body) and it was much quieter.
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1 hour ago, HRBrat said:
I was able to find a rebuild kit for sale from SummitRacing.
It looks like that kit will take a month for delivery.
There are some master cylinders listed here.
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5 hours ago, bratboy1 said:
Do these numbers seem okay? I wasn't sure if that gradual drop on the intake side should be immediate or not.
I also haven't changed any of the parts like I said before hand yet just for studious purposes.
The running pressure is right. The bleed down is to fast.
The fuel pump should have a check valve to hold pressure, and the Fuel Pressure Regulator is rated 36 psi, so the pressure should stay at 36 for a very long time.
Change the FPR and monitor the inlet pressure with the gauge.
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I would check the alternator output, to play it safe.
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I have towed our 95 4EAT with a tow dolly 20+ miles with no problems.
Then I learned about the FWD Fuse. I put the fuse in, turn the key on and have towed the 95 and 97 both 4EAT's several times with no problems. When I purchased the 97 I used the tow dolly and towed it with the FWD Fuse in and the key on from the Maryland border to central Pa. with no problem except for the battery being almost dead when I got home.
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4 cylinder 2.5 or 6 cylinder 3.0?
The Fog light wiring is different between them, mainly through the SMJ and the relay holder.
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Right, technophobics.
That system should have been designed to work the same with the hatch open or closed not just when closed.
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Yep, a lot of people want that push button.
That is a simple, cute trick to make the control unit think the hatch is closed and turn off the power.
I looked at one wiring diagram and the Power Rear Gate uses 5 pages and involves 21 connectors. A lot of communication between different modules.
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2000 Legacy Difficulty Starting - Fuel Pump?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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If you have clothes and shoes on you are not grounded to the vehicle.
Basically, AC voltage is a combination of increasing and decreasing, plus and minus DC voltages at a certain frequency. So is RF, but at a higher frequency.