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I need to make a correction to the above p/n's. Even though they are all Denso 0-ring top feed, the connector plug on the original fuel injector is square, and some of the ones I listed have the newer style oval connector. Duh. I'm going to put an [=] for the "EV1" square plugs, and a (=) for the "Denso" oval plugs. Of course I didnt notice that important detail until after I bought a set of used injectors - dam it Here is where I found the injector data https://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php Important note, the injectors listed above are known as Hi-Z or high impedance fuel injectors (around 13-14 Ohm). Do not install low impedance 1-4 Ohm old style injectors with a high impedance ECU. The factory manual will tell you what style injectors you have. Most newer cars run high impedance. What's better? I cant answer that.

Yeah, you are correct. That Desktop dyno simulation is way off and is not a good way to determine HP of an engine. I was using it to see what mods would bring up the HP level from 150 to around 200. I saw that the HP & TQ didnt cross over where they should. Good catc

Thanks. I think I have some loctite 518 in the garage somewhere

Since I'm waiting on a few things (my heads are in the shop, my cams got reground, and my injectors are in-work), I'v been working on my EFI harness. I'm wrapping the hall sensor with a shielded mesh. I'm trying to EMP proof my van - lol

I found a list of compatible injectors (I think - don't quote me until I confirm). They all have the same prefix # of 195500-xxxx, which is a Denso O-Ring top-feed. The part # is on the top side of the injector on the plastic part. They are in order of flow: Stock ER27: 195500-1330, 188cc @ 3 BAR, yellow top, 13.5 Ω (170 HP max) -1900, 208cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω -2190, 210cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω -1480, 212cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω -1970, 212cc @ 3 BAR, blue top, 13.8Ω -1980, 214cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω -1960, 226cc @ 3 BAR, pink top, 13.6Ω (200+HP) I found a used set of the -1980 cheap out of a 1989-98 Madza MPV with a 3.0 L six cyl, 200 HP . I'm going to send these to the injector rebuilder and confirm if they are a direct swap and get them rebuilt and flowed. Per the info above, they flow slightly less than the 220 needed (214cc), but I'd rather error on the cautious side. The injector flow #'s jumped up after the -1960 @ 226 cc to up in the 240cc+ range. The Mazda injectors were also way cheaper than all of the other injectors.

Stock below.

So I found out about the injectors. They will only support 170 HP max. They are 188cc/min. For my 200 horsepower estimate, I would need injectors that flow 220cc/min at 43.5 psi fuel pressure (non-turbo). I'm fairly certain that my HP estimations will be at least 200+ due to the new cam grind, compression & headwork. I need to find a suitable set of injectors I can swap in that flow more. The stock injectors are a ND 195500-1330 "yellow" injector, which are O-ring top feed. Thanks

I have the factory xt manual. I think its vol 2. Thx for the info. I will reuse the headbolts

Do the fuel injectors lock in place on the fuel rail?

I noticed there are 2 lengths. I'm gonna take a look at the ARP catalog.

I reached out to Mr Injector. They are going to do what they can with the injectors and test each one. Once they get the data, they can determine if they wil flow enough to support a 200 HP engine. My heads are going to get worked on next week as well. As of now, the plan on the heads is to do a basic valve job & flat mill .014" off the surface. He will also take a look at the passages to see if there is any obvious airflow obstructions he can clean up. He isn't familiar with these unusual heads, so he wants to check them out before quoting me for porting. Question on the head bolts: Are they torque-to-yield? I'm wondering if I should convert to head studs. Thanks

Good idea about asking the rebuilding company. Maybe they can check the flow rate to see if it will be sufficient for the power increase.

Question on the original fuel injectors. Before I send them out to Mr. Injector to get rebuilt, I'm wondering if there is a better flowing injector I can install that's a direct fit. I plan on increasing the horsepower some with cams & higher compression & exhaust - say around 190 to 210 HP with a 7000 RPM redline. The EFI system will be SDS EM5-F. They will need to know what injectors I will be using before I order the kit. This links below looks interesting. Datsun 280z turbo fuel injectors as a direct swap? cool. The link also mentions Porsche 928 injectors as a direct swap option. Note, I'm assuming that an ER27 injector is similar to an EA82T. Thanks https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113427-ea82t-injectors/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24633-nissan-injectors/

Yeah these ER27 6 cyl engines have 2 cylinders on each side that share a exhaust port. 2 & 4 and 1 & 3 share the exhaust

Working on some exhaust ideas...

Now It's starting to move into the performance side Both cams & followers getting shipped out for 264 duration torque grind...

Thanks again for the info. Another question: What is this nipple on the back of the block (red arrow)? It's completely plugged.

Quick question: On this ER27, I've noticed various ports and nipples on the intake manifold, engine case, and valve covers. These are for water, vacuum, oil and breather. I would like to know what I can eliminate on this engine.

Thanks for the info. I will make cooling a priority on the swap. The radiators on these old VW vans are very big - almost overkill. I added an old cooler with it's own fan a couple of years ago. I also removed the AC condenser in front of the radiator.

How much more cooling capacity does it need? This is a swap project, and I can install a large radiator and an oil cooler if needed. What sealant do you need to use?

I wonder if they are factory installed gaskets (like if the heads were never removed) 2 cylinder share 1 exhaust, and 1 is separate.

It looks like the max bore limit is .020", So the factory bore is 3.620" + 020 = 3.640" ...Woohoo. I hope it will clean up.

Head gasket looks ok, too. The part # is 899235, and it was made by Nike

The head shows the same evidence

So it appears that the engine leaked water into the #5 cylinder during storage this rusted the lower section of the cyl wall. The good news is that this engine has 5 head bolts per cylinder and a closed deck. How cool is that? . I think an EZ30 only uses 4 head bolts per cylinder.