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tjet

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Posts posted by tjet

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by tjet

    On 4/4/2020 at 9:16 AM, tjet said:

    I found a list of compatible injectors (I think - don't quote me until I confirm). They all have the same prefix # of 195500-xxxx, which is a Denso O-Ring top-feed. The part # is on the top side of the injector on the plastic part.

    They are in order of flow:

    Stock ER27: 195500-1330, 188cc @ 3 BAR, yellow top, 13.5 Ω (170 HP max). [=]

    -1900, 208cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω [=]

    -2190, 210cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω (=)

    -1480, 212cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω [=]

    -1970, 212cc @ 3 BAR, blue top, 13.8Ω (=)

    -1980, 214cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω (=)

    -1960, 226cc @ 3 BAR, pink top, 13.6Ω (200+HP) (=)

    I found a used set of the -1980 cheap out of a 1989-98 Madza MPV with a 3.0 L six cyl, 200 HP . I'm going to send these to the injector rebuilder and confirm if they are a direct swap and get them rebuilt and flowed. Per the info above, they flow slightly less than the 220 needed (214cc), but I'd rather error on the cautious side. The injector flow #'s jumped up after the -1960 @ 226 cc to up in the 240cc+ range. The Mazda injectors were also way cheaper than all of the other injectors.

     

     

    I need to make a correction to the above p/n's. Even though they are all Denso 0-ring top feed, the connector plug on the original fuel injector is square, and some of the ones I listed have the newer style oval connector. Duh.

    I'm going to put an [=] for the "EV1" square plugs, and a (=) for the "Denso" oval plugs. Of course I didnt notice that important detail until after I bought a set of used injectors - dam it

     

    Here is where I found the injector data

    https://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php

    Important note, the injectors listed above are known as Hi-Z or high impedance fuel injectors (around 13-14 Ohm). Do not install low impedance 1-4 Ohm old style injectors with a high impedance ECU. The factory manual will tell you what style injectors you have. Most newer cars run high impedance. What's better? I cant answer that.

     

     

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by tjet

    I found a list of compatible injectors (I think - don't quote me until I confirm). They all have the same prefix # of 195500-xxxx, which is a Denso O-Ring top-feed. The part # is on the top side of the injector on the plastic part.

    They are in order of flow:

    Stock ER27: 195500-1330, 188cc @ 3 BAR, yellow top, 13.5 Ω (170 HP max)

    -1900, 208cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω

    -2190, 210cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω

    -1480, 212cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω

    -1970, 212cc @ 3 BAR, blue top, 13.8Ω

    -1980, 214cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω

    -1960, 226cc @ 3 BAR, pink top, 13.6Ω (200+HP)

    I found a used set of the -1980 cheap out of a 1989-98 Madza MPV with a 3.0 L six cyl, 200 HP . I'm going to send these to the injector rebuilder and confirm if they are a direct swap and get them rebuilt and flowed. Per the info above, they flow slightly less than the 220 needed (214cc), but I'd rather error on the cautious side. The injector flow #'s jumped up after the -1960 @ 226 cc to up in the 240cc+ range. The Mazda injectors were also way cheaper than all of the other injectors.

     

     

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by tjet

    So I found out about the injectors. They will only support 170 HP max. They are 188cc/min. For my 200 horsepower estimate, I would need injectors that flow 220cc/min at 43.5 psi fuel pressure (non-turbo).

    I'm fairly certain that my HP estimations will be at least 200+ due to the new cam grind, compression & headwork. 

    I need to find a suitable set of injectors I can swap in that flow more.

    The stock injectors are a ND 195500-1330 "yellow" injector, which are O-ring top feed. 

    Thanks

     

     

     

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I reached out to Mr Injector. They are going to do what they can with the injectors and test each one. Once they get the data, they can determine if they wil flow enough to support a 200 HP engine. My heads are going to get worked on next week as well. As of now, the plan on the heads is to do a basic valve job & flat mill .014" off the surface. He will also take a look at the passages to see if there is any obvious airflow obstructions he can clean up. He isn't familiar with these unusual heads, so he wants to check them out before quoting me for porting.

    Question on the head bolts: Are they torque-to-yield? 

    I'm wondering if I should convert to head studs.

    Thanks

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by tjet

    Question on the original fuel injectors. Before I send them out to Mr. Injector to get rebuilt, I'm wondering if there is a better flowing injector I can install that's a direct fit. I plan on increasing the horsepower some with cams & higher compression & exhaust - say around 190 to 210 HP with a 7000 RPM redline. The EFI system will be SDS EM5-F. They will need to know what injectors I will be using before I order the kit.

    This links below looks interesting. Datsun 280z turbo fuel injectors as a direct swap? cool. The link also mentions Porsche 928 injectors as a direct swap option. Note, I'm assuming that an ER27 injector is similar to an EA82T.

    Thanks :) 

    https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113427-ea82t-injectors/

    https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24633-nissan-injectors/

     

     

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by tjet

    6 hours ago, Numbchux said:

    No easy answer to that without some serious thermodynamics engineering. And being that yours isn't going in a Subaru, airflow will be all different from most of the documentation. But the EA/ER engines have very weak cooling systems, heat will probably be your biggest challenge, depending how hard you try to push it. Err on the side of caution with radiator capacity, oil cooler (at least oil/coolant exchanger, oil/air can be hard to prevent overcooling) would likely be a good idea. A radiator that struggles to keep a 90hp EA82 cool can keep a 130hp EJ cool without any fans.

    Don't run a lower temp thermostat, though. Aluminum engines don't like being run cold, either. But if you've got adequate cooling capacity, you shouldn't go over "fully open" temp on the stat.

     

    Thanks for the info. I will make cooling a priority on the swap. The radiators on these old VW vans are very big - almost overkill. I added an old cooler with it's own fan a couple of years ago. I also removed the AC condenser in front of the radiator.

     

    ER27 durability + performance build

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Numbchux said:

     

    You speak the truth. One of the reasons the EA/ER engines have such a terrible cooling system. I've seen a couple big closed-deck EJ22t cars that required so much more cooling capacity than it seemed similar semi-closed blocks required.

    How much more cooling capacity does it need? This is a swap project, and I can install a large radiator and an oil cooler if needed.

    6 hours ago, jdmleggy97 said:

    Did a 3 angle valve job, cleaned up the ports on the intake/exhaust, and milled down the heads a bit on my ER in high school. The power was nice! Lost a few upper RPM in the rev range but I can’t say at all that the engine didn’t wake up lol 

    Didnt last very long though.  I used the wrong silicone for the cam carriers/housings (I just didn’t know. I was a kid) and it broke down into chunks and clogged up the oil pickup.

    What sealant do you need to use?

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