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laegion
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Posts posted by laegion
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14 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Unfortunately there is no updated gasket for the EJ222. Unlike the 2.5 where you can just buy the turbo gasket. For the EJ222 you have to buy like a cometic gasket, etc.
As I said I really don't like that engine - seen way too many of them with bad rings. The piston re-design is to blame. And not being able to get a Subaru turbo MLS gasket for it..... it's an avoid for me.
GD
Strange, when I look the head gasket up on parts.subaru.com for the phase II EJ22 it shows this gasket:
but the ones I used in my phase I looked like this:
Maybe I have bad info; but I believed the issue was mainly due to using a composite gasket that deteriorated when coolant and oil sat on the gasket, and that an mls gasket like the one shown above was the fix for that issue?
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:
1. Repeat this to yourself - those maintenance packages are sales and marketing tools, not maintenance tools. You should never choose any of those.
Look through the owners manual and pick out the items that need done.
You need spark plugs, brake fluid, and air fitler. That's it. Pay for that and nothing else.
Yes have an independent shop do it - perferably subaru specialists or familiar. Use stock plugs and filter only. Aftermarket are lower grade.
The "inspection" stuff is 100% bogus - they're "inspecting" any car that comes to the shop.. It takes 8 seconds to scan 100+ different items while you're loosening the oil pan bolt. It's routine, never paid for - they're trying to find something to sell you and to make sure it's not goig to surprise you (it's a bad look if they change the oil and a day later you've got an issue they didn't tell you about).
You don't need to change the brake fluid. 60k is very short. If you're on an extended warranty do it. If you're willing to skip - do it at 100,000 miles. It's a closed system and a 2013 daily driver Subaru will never experience any performance enhancement by changing the brake fluid. You won't even noticed any difference at 100k but that's a wise place to change it before it does get noticeably old.
*technically* the brake fluid can be tested but very few places actually do that. But you'd pass the test unless this is some rebuilt, auction car, theft deal, sat outside in the weather with the hood up for 5 years....or lid off forever...which is highly unlikely.
So you don't recommend CVT service? or just not at 60k?
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:
No I didn't say that. The gasket matches the bore of the cylinder. Don't take what I said as a design engineering 101 class for Subarus. That wasn't the point.
I assume you're saying that the Ej22 phase II head is similar to the EJ251 then since they are both sohc? I thought the issue with the ej251 head gaskets was the head gasket design/material?
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I want to preface this by saying that I have never had dealer service done and very little done at shops in any capacity; so this is just a comment, not advice
However to me this seems really high for what you're getting. The lower packages don't even include CVT service and none of them include a coolant flush. I don't know if that's because it was in the last periodic service or what, but if it isn't than it should be by 60k...
Hopefully someone who's more knowledgeable about dealer and mechanic service fees can illuminate the situation better.
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On 3/15/2022 at 9:53 AM, idosubaru said:
Not the case. There are two distinctive EJ22's for this discussion. The 99-01 EJ22's are not the same as the earlier subaru fan favorites of 1990-1998 EJ22's which were one of the best engines Subaru ever made. So that's why there's incorrect, or conflicting, statements.
The 99-01 EJ22 heads are essentially Phase II EJ25 heads - the valves and springs are identical and even have the same Subaru part number, and the heads themselves are identical except for the exhaust ports. It's not like earlier Ej22's where the heads were completely different designs from the EJ25 and shared no parts. These are, by design, the same head molds, just tweaked for different exhaust ports.
I'd still recommend getting it if it passes other assessment/requirements, but be aware of a few things when you look at it or in the future as an active owner of that vehicle.
If they have the original manufacturer installed headgaskets from the factory they are prone to external leaks. Usually oil and it usually gets worse very slowly over a long period of time. You can wait and plan a repair for 10's of thousands of miles or just ignore it if you're not worried about drips here and there. The good news is this is of zero consequence for reliability. The bad news is it could have leaked/be leaking or have been repaired.
1. I'd be looking for signs of repair and who did it or if a Subaru gasket was used.
So you're saying the phase II EJ22 uses the same head gaskets as the EJ251? or the EJ25D?
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Head gaskets where never more of an issue on the EJ22 than any other aluminum engine in any other brand. The headgaskets typically are good unless it's been overheated. With good maintenance they'll go 300k+ so if it's in good shape it will be as reliable as any other 23 year old car.
The main question I would have about a car this old with so few miles is if it sat for long periods of time without being run which could cause gasket or other issues.
Any engine that gets driven like a race car when it's not designed for it is going to have a shorter life.
My first questions would be how many owners it's had. What was the maintenance like.
at 115k it should have already had a timing belt, water pump, and idlers done. When was it done and by whom. etc.
Also check the coolant overflow (at idle while running) after driving around for a bit and getting it warmed up to make sure there are no bubbles going into the overflow from the radiator. That's typically what you'll see with an EJ22 with a bad head gasket, also could be coolant in oil or oil in coolant; but from what I understand that is a rare issue with the EJ22.
However, it's best to have a Subaru or import mechanic look it over for you.
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I really wanted to get the newest Geolandar on my '03 Outback H6; but with all the projects I've got, my finances are going to limit me to what I can get at Les Schwab...so the closest thing I've seen from them is the Pinza AT (I'm going to go with a 215/70r16 or about 28" diameter).
They look to be a very new tire but the tests I've managed to find, Tire Rack, and Motor Trend seem to rate them very highly; but they only test them on trucks and the Maverick (I'm not sure it really counts as a truck) so not in a similar size to what a Subaru would run.So I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and how they feel they are on and off road compared to more conventional all seasons and snow tires? or compared to those new Geolandars that come on the Wilderness editions?
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6 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Another question which is a better fit is: "Are there any oil induced failures or issues that oil choice could mitigate?" There are none. Most oil decisions/questions try to solve an issue that doesn't exist. With a 20 year old model, there's many thousands of examples with a total of billions of miles of opportunity for the greater Subaru community to see any issues, timing tensioner, or otherwise. The good news in all this - is it truly doesn't matter at all. So you'll be right whatever you choose. Enjoy the JDM i've installed JDM EZ30's as well.
I hope to enjoy it for quite a few years. It's a very nice engine. I love my EJ22...but 6cyl just have such smooth power delivery and this one has such a flat torque curve. It's going to be a great roadtrip and light overlanding vehicle.
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8 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
Can you really trust a partially rubber line that's been in a junkyard for who knows how long?
Just the store bought cans. A/C Pro Synthetic Refrigerant w/ oil to be exact. If the system isn't cooling as desired, I can always take it to a shop and have them vac it down. It's still cheaper than paying them for refrigerant.
You mentioned adding 4oz, are you weighing the can before and after adding? I've only ever done A/C service myself with a machine during a very brief stint as a mechanic. It seems to me that manufacturers rate their systems by volume and not pressure...and the only way to be sure of volume is to evacuate the system and create as much vacuum as possible before filling. I'm no expert however, as they basically only showed me how to operate the machine, not what was actually going on and since then I've just had a shop deal with the A/C stuff. I had the A/C in my '95 serviced last year and they added about a pound of refrigerant and it only cost me $130 total. I dunno what it costs where you're at; but that cost was worth it to me rather than waste time messing with non-professional kits.
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11 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
In my personal opinion, ASE papers don't mean squat. In over a decade of being the face of my business - the guy you see at the counter and the guy that answers the phone - I have been asked a grand total of THREE times if I have ASE certifications, etc. In each case I explained what that really means and the customer brought me their car anyway. It's a waste of time and effort - much like college. I can get the same or better education for $12 in late fees at the public library and as regards "auto mechanics" - which isn't really a term I like - I prefer "machinist" - as in someone that is involved in building, understanding, and repairing machines in general - I don't really limit myself to automotive......
Oil viscosity and additive package is chosen by the manufacturer based on emissions, fuel economy, emissions, bearing loads, emissions, longevity, emissions, maintenance cost and interval, emissions...... oh and did I mention emissions?
If you want the best protection then you really only need to consider the load on the engine. Higher viscosity resists being squeezed out of the bearings. That's why the higher power engines (turbo and H6) specified 5w30 rather than the 5w20 used in the newer NA engines. The construction of the engine internally - oil pump sizing, bearing clearances, etc - is no different between engines that "recommend" different viscosities. In general the manufacturer chooses the thinnest oil they can "get away with" that has the lowest additive package they can "get away with" and thus have the lowest emissions and least damage to emissions equipment (which has a federally mandated extended warranty). If you look at many of the high powered factory cars.... BMW for example ran 10w60 on many of their high powered turbo engines from the factory.
We use exclusively 5w40 and higher viscosity in all our oil changes unless there is specific concern about voiding a warranty, etc. Anything above about 400 HP we use 5w50. I have been using this policy on EVERY car we service - probably about 1000 oil changes a year - for about 8 years at this point. We are an Amsoil dealer and our go-to oil is the 5w40 Euro Full SAPS formula (black lid). The high power cars get the 5w50 Signature Series. We use WIX filters. We set all the oil change intervals for 6,000 miles and we always remind people to check their oil level regularly.
I have lots of customers making 500+ WHP on Amsoil and I have torn down a LOT of engines - I have never seen a single failure of one of our engine builds that could be logically linked to a failure of the oil to prevent metal-to-metal contact.
And for that matter - 99.999% of every engine failure I have seen has been related to the engine running low on oil, or being starved of oil. The type of oil matters very little when it's littered with debris from bearings that are starved of oil every time you take a hard corner (low oil level) and from people starting and driving with the engine cold and the bearing clearances half what they are at operating temp and the oil filter in bypass just shoving all that oil and debris through the bearings like a lapping compound.
You want the engine to last? Run a high quality synthetic and a filter with an up-front bypass design. Don't drive it hard when it's cold - you'll just put the filter in bypass and main bearing clearances are tight when cold. Keep it topped off. Change it on a regular schedule.
The Brand of the oil is pretty much irrelevant. Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Lubri-Moly, Motul, etc..... it's pretty much all just marketing. They will all do the same job if you keep it full and clean. Do this and the engine will live plenty long enough to leak from everywhere and lose the HG's and end up being junk since it's cheaper to just get a JDM replacement. Timing components aren't a concern and none of them can read the label on the bottle of oil you pour in.
GD
Well then, 5w40 it will be. I was using the subaru synthetic and the subaru filters but I've heard the filters they sell in the American market are not very good so back to Napa Gold/wix.
I should say, I don't trust my friend because he's ASE certified. I trust him because we started working on cars together doing engine swaps on 80's Camaro's, and aircooled VW's etc over 20 years ago and now he's one of the best diagnostic techs around.
I like your philosophy about being a "machinist" rather than a mechanic...it makes perfect sense. I've worked on a lot of machines: like a huge pitney bowes sorter/inserter, and RC cars and designed/built FPV quads and the skills are all related. My friend is the same way.
I appreciate the detailed info. I just didn't want to go from the OEM on this motor without more info since it's a low mikeage JDM motor Injust spent a bundle installing, and it's different than what I'm used to. I haven't had a motor with chain driven cams probably since I sold my 76 Datsun 620.
and yes...driving cold vehicles is one thing that irritates the hell out of me. I'm sure everyone I know is sick of me telling them it's bad for their car. I'm the kind of driver if I have to drive it cold I basically coast it with minimal load till it's warm. No need to destroy my bearings or break piston skirts.
Is there a specific filter from wix you'd recommend for the EZ30D specifically or just the same as the EJ series? That's what napa sold me when I went to get a filter for this thing.
Thanks again; this info puts my mind at ease.
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What kind of machine are you using to charge your system?
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From your description there is no guarantee that a swaybar will fix your issue. It may improve it...but there may be more wrong than that. If your tires are rubbing from body roll then a swaybar may do it. If it's from heavy loads in the rear or a combination of weight, tired springs, and tired struts it won't cure your issue. However, it's probably a good idea to get one under there anyway; it'll handle better in hard cornering. I'd bet you can pick one up with brackets from a parts yard for a reasonable price...or at least the brackets.
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15 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Owners manual is a good source for viscosity. When searching here - search his user name and "Amsoil", his most detailed responses involve that. Google search might work better but it should be readily available here too. And you might try searching his posts for EZ30 in case he's ever pointed it out.
Oil opinions are 99% of the time not given by someone acutely aware of failure modes, causes, metallurgical deterioration, interplay of lubricity degradation and heat escalation, oil degradation, or any kind of engineering/large scale data analysis, when it comes to oil induced issues. This isn't a big deal except when we consider how obsessed people are with oil choices. Except maybe GD. Hours and hours of internet reading/watching is just a bunch of half-baked (at best) opinions and picking whatever sounds good, there's nothing scientific, engineering related, or data driven about that.
But here's the thing - it doesn't matter. Run synthetic, never let it get low, and change it on time and you'll never have an oil induced issue. Outside of "don't be dumb", follow the owner manual, there's no chance of viscosity giving any meaningful benefit (ignoring fuel mileage) for an average daily driver. Change two different EZ30's from new with 5w30 and 10w30 for 200k and if it's never run low or past interval there will be no difference.
EZ-30 guts/materials/clearances are commensurate with all modern subaru engines. There's nothing special regarding the EZ30 related to oil viscosity. There's not much information or consensus because it doesn't matter. That engine runs 250,000 miles all day long on the cheapest on sale oil you can find if it never gets low, and is changed frequently. Technically even conventional oil is fine if you change it a lot, but synth is so good and forgiving of potential running hot, or low oil, or other compromising events, and longer change intervals, it's silly not to run it.
There are two minor oil related considerations on the EZ:
1. the timing chain tensioner supplies2. the EZ30 has 6 cylinders - so failure or incidence rates of unforgiving circumstances will be 50% higher when speaking about the combustion chamber just mathematically speaking.
Keeping the oil clean, full, and changed regularly is key to those two points far more than viscosity...again, follow the owners manual.
I agree, that's why I typically only take advice from ASE certified techs when it comes to this sort of thing, which is why I listen to my friends advice on oil, he's been an ASE certified diagnostic pro for over a decade; but he's not a subaru tech specifically so his knowledge in this area isn't as thorough as the techs prowling this board. It's why I'm here and not on some FB group where every "know it all" gives a useless opinion.
I only run synthetic in both of my Subies, and have for years. I can get amsoil, and certain formulations of the Liqui Moly locally. I'm mostly only interested in the liqui moly because my friend says he's had really good results with it in several vehicles. Better than some of the more expensive brands as it's formulated for high end European engines, (not the lowest bidder an OEM could contract). I'm skeptical of course so that's why I'm asking about direct experience with Liqui Moly or different viscosities in the ez30.
I know all the differences between synthetic and organic oil. I know in the majority of engines viscosity isn't as important as it's made out to be. I've actually owned over 30 cars in the 20 years I've been driving and worked on almost all of them. I've already done an engine swap on both my Subies...so I'm not a newbie; I know the basics.I'm really only posting about this because I am curious about the effect of viscosity on the timing chain tensioners of the EZ30D Phase I specifically.
I've tried multiple searches using the forum search feature with no luck. I'll try using Google as you suggest.
Thanks for the info. -
On 1/25/2022 at 4:22 PM, mickytrus said:
Please tell me it wasn't $999 when you bought one??
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5 hours ago, mickytrus said:
Thanks!...
It went ok.....
Just, Okay? That sounds ominous...I just bought a stock Denso radiator for my '03, not from the dealer though, on ebay. It cost me about what a generic brand costs at the big parts stores ~$120. Just did the same for my '95. They are typically the o.e.m. manufacturer for Japanese car brands. The trick is to be sure what you're buying is genuine. I typically only buy stuff like that from sellers with 99% or higher feedback just to be safe...and also make sure they specify the brand in the sale, so I can get my money back if they try to switch it on me.
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I appreciate the general info.
I'm really looking for specific info about the ez30d phase I. The reason is that I recall GD mentioning something about this in another post but I can't find it and I don't think he explained the reason for the specific viscosity.
I've read a lot about Subarus and watched hundreds of hours of videos, etc. The viscosity choice is by and large about fuel consumption from what I understand. However there are always exceptions to any rule.
Also, an '06 would have a phase II EZ motor so I'm not sure it would be the same, since it has VVT, a redesigned front cover and timing chain system from what I understand.
Sadly, two oil changes would only last me 3 months right now as I'm driving this car for work until I get my '95 back up and running. I've heard good things about amsoil...but I'm inclined to listen to my mechanic friend when it comes to fluid recommendations. Unfortunately he's not a Subaru specific tech so he's unfamiliar with any reason the ez30d might need a specific viscosity.
It's also possible I'm remembering it wrong; but I'd hoped one of the subaru techs on the board would know about this if it's common knowledge in the field. -
On 3/5/2022 at 3:46 PM, Daskuppler said:
Hello Everyone,
I have a 14 Forester and am looking to add some auxiliary lights to the vehicle. I do not have an aftermarket bumper or anything else to mount to that would not be present on a stock vehicle. What have you guys done? Light pods? Light bar?
Cheers
Interestingly I watched a mod list video on a crosstrek yesterday and they mounted some LED pod lights on a hood hinge bracket that placed them at the hood corners. They looked like an aluminum aftermarket pre-cut bracket. maybe they fit the outback also? or they make a version for your car?
I'm not endorsing this channel or mods. Just a random subie video that happened to come up in my feed.
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I've been using the subaru synthetic 5w30, a mechanic friend of mine recommended Liqui Moly and that I might try their 5w40. I seem to remember very specific recommendations about only using 5w30; but I can't find mention of it when searching. I'm wondering why a specific viscosity would be recommended for this engine? Also any recommendations on high quality synthetic that works well with this motor are appreciated. I'm hoping to find something available in local parts stores if possible. but at least something I don't have to order form a dealership as we don't have one in my town. If it's also better than the factory subaru oil that would be a bonus.
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18 hours ago, Sunnyside said:
Needs to fit a 95 Subaru Legacy
I just bought a new one without the fan cage and just swapped the fan cage over. It was less than $40 new, and it's common enough they had it in stock. New or Used, it shouldn't be a difficult part to find.
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Why not go to parts.subaru.com and find the parts that are specific to your vehicle, then look at what other vehicles share that part #? There is always a link to vehicles with the same part number right on the part page.
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3 hours ago, Sunnyside said:
No it does not work on high. You can hear a click behind the steering wheel in dash area when you turn blower from OFF to low setting.
I wish it worked on high!
You'll need to pull the glovebox out to get access to the blower motor. Disconnect the wires and test for power on all the settings as they mentioned above. If there's power then pull the motor and replace it. They aren't outrageously expensive and it's reasonably easy to do with basic tools.
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On 2/14/2022 at 11:18 AM, 2003outbaxhelp said:
I was curious if you'd still be willing to share the pictures.
Pictures showing the stock stereo pinout? All the pinouts are in the FSM.
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6 hours ago, bullseye451 said:
Hey guys, posting another topic here. I’ve had no success on my last two projects with my Subarus.
1. 2005 Subaru outback 2.5 non turbo timing belt and head gaskets: I started the car up after replacing them everything look good at idle it purrs like a kitten. But when you bring it up off idle 2000rpm + it vibrates heavy. I just tore the front end part and double check the timing belt and redid lining up the marks. That did not help I believe I was lined up to begin with. Any ideas?
2. 2007 Subaru outback with a 2.5 L non-turbo. The car was running decent and out of nowhere major hesitation check engine light comes on and flashes during hesitation. I replace the coil. Check for vacuum leaks. It showed a misfire on number two cylinder. So I replaced the injector and check the plug. It did nothing to help hesitation. Under slow acceleration it seems OK. But when I accelerate quickly it hesitates and seems to stumble until I mash the throttle down or bring it down to just above idle. It seems like more than just number two cylinder dropping out. If I mash the throttle down after hesitation it seems to clear itself out and take off of course I’ll be well over the speed limit. I’m ready to drive both of them off a cliff . Any ideas?
I know I’m vague on description and all the other trouble shooting I’ve done so far but I’m running out of ideas.My scanner tool is a laptop and a usb to OBD link SX adapter using obdwiz software so I’m limited with what I can pull up in diagnosing sensors
I'll be curious to hear what you find out with #2 as my '95 has a similar problem. I suspect either a bad connection to the fuel pump (The gas gage is also intermittent sometimes coinciding with the issue) mine drives fine in town though, it only has an issue when driving faster than 45mph or so, so maybe it's something entirely different...but I also have cylinder misfire codes, sometimes, one, two, three, or even all four. It'll die like yours, sometimes flooring the throttle seems to "clean it out" sometimes I have to turn off the ignition and restart the car while rolling and then sometimes it drives on the highway like nothing is wrong. Strangely, I can accelerate all the way to redline perfectly fine in first and second gear and it doesn't do it then...but cruising on the highway...
My other suspected cause is a burned valve or like GD said, a dropped valve guide; or maybe carbon buildup on the valves and seats from too much city driving (I used it for delivery). Maybe that's applicable to your situation...maybe not.
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10 hours ago, CodemanLivs said:
Ok , here is the latest.
I went to pull your pick and got the drive shaft assembly off an 04 Impreza Outback . Like new condition 74 bucks fit perfectly.
Made NO difference what so ever !!!
This car is on the way to the crusher !!! I am not one to throw in the towel EVER!!! Failure is not in my vocabulary!!
I Cannot figure this out !!
List of items changed since this Shutter (vibration) started.
Motor, transaxel, rear diff, drive shaft assembly, flywheel, clutch KIT, all new motor and trans mounts, wheel bearing hub assemblies , brake pads and shoes.
Ive even looked for a crack in the cross member the motor mounts sit on .. cause that's what it feels like , like something is broken structurally .
Please !! Anyone else have any suggestions, I'll try anything.
And I'm very certain , VERY VERY CERTAIN,. that every single nut and bolt were torqued to spec and thread lock applied as specified. Also , my clutch kit and flywheel are new and true .
This is not clutch chatter, i know exactly how that feels.
I have some video footage but it just doesn't convey the message
Even have footage from under the car.
The flywheel is new? Or you're still using the original resurfaced one? I still suggest getting a new or used resurfaced one; and checking out the transmission input shaft play when you do.
Hanging Idle Issue after warm
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by laegion
Have you checked the TPS under other throttle positions to see if it functions like it should "off-idle"? I assume you've checked the TPS voltage when the idle is normal vs. when the idle is high to compare?
I'm not sure about the phase II EJ22, but I know on mine the IAC is adjustable, is it possible yours needs adjusting? I'm no expert but those are the two things that I'd check first.
Maybe someone with more experience will have some more specific ideas.