yorab

Okay, keep in mind that I have an '86 GL 5spd with dual range 4wd. The part numbers, price and quantities that I needed: 633124170-4 pcs-$3.80 each 633124180-4 pcs-$6.82 each 633011330-2 pcs-$4.77 each There are actually a few more bushings in there if your 4wd linkage is loose, but mine wasn't. I returned two other bushings and that saved me $12. Just using these 10 pcs made one heck of a difference. The Haynes manual actually has a very good exploded view of the linkages.

Okay, I was hoping to hear that somebody has had success with installing a used compressor. With the money back warranty, I can't see how it would hurt to try it out, since I'll have a bit of time next weekend.

So my compressor is toast (see another thread). I have an '86 GL with Hitachi compressor. My local parts yard has used compressors for sale with a 60 day money-back guarantee. The price is great compared to reman. Are used compressors any good?

I must say though, it made a world of difference.

So here it is, $65 worth of 25 cent plastic and rubber.

I looked under the shift boot and noticed that I had a bolt inserted backwards. The bolt head had a low profile but the threaded end and nut were much too long to allow the 4wd linkage to move. I posted pics on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmm741/sets/72157622733373513/. Thanks to all for the advice. Rust in Peace is indeed a great album but I'm not sure if it is the best ever. It would be in my top 10 though. I always put Metal Church-Metal Church in the top three. Relatively unkown but awesome.

Cool. It was an easy fix. I like that! There was a clearance issue between two moving parts of the linkage. I'll post back with more explanation once I get some pics uploaded to Flickr.

Yeah, it's stuck in the up position. I had to put the lever in that position to get the console pieces and rubber boots out of the way so that I could get the the linkage bushings.

5 spd manual, dual range lever actuated. Rust in Peace-how appropriate for a subie junkie!

Thanks zagarus. I'll look at that tomorrow, though I doubt that's it because I wasn't near that area. But again, I'll look. I was thinking that something may have become disconnected near where the linkage enters the transfer case.

So I replaced all the bushings in my shift linkage and in the 4wd linkage today. What a difference that makes. I used to have to throw the stick all the way over to the passenger side to catch a higher gear. Now it's nice and tight. However, I took it for a spin and I can't get it out of 4wd. I ran out of time today, but I'll do an inspection tomorrow to try to figure out what's up. Does anybody have a good idea of what my be going on? Just to be clear, I completely disconnected the shift and 4wd linkages in order to replace the bushings. I'm not exactly sure how the linkage connection to the transfer case works, so I'm hoping that this may have happened to somebody before. Thanks.

So the compressor will not turn with the clutch engaged. I used a strap wrench on the pulley. The pulley turned (barely), but the compressor would not. I have one last idea. I see that I can get a pipe wrench onto the clutch plate on the front of the compressor without damaging the sensor tangs. I tried with my 14 inch wrench, but it was slightly too small. Once I get a bigger wrench, I'll try to force it to turn. I can only hope that rocking it back and forth will free it up and allow the refrigerant/oil to circulate again and coat the internal bearings of the compressor.

I have the same problem with my 86 GL 5spd d/r. Crawled underneath and saw the the bushing are basically gone, allowing all of the slop in the linkage. It annoyed the hell out of me for years because the stick shift would knock the plastic console sideways everytime I shifted. I went to the dealer and ordered parts on Friday last week. It takes at least 12 bushings for a total of about $65. You have to order one bushing for each side of the connecting bolt instead of one set that includes both. That is why you need so many. I can give you the part numbers if you have the same model.

Yeah, the sytem sat uncharged and not under vacuum. I realize that the compressor might be toast, but I'm hoping not. Oh well, at least somebody else might read this thread and avoid the mistakes that I made. I'll update after I get out there to work on it tomorrow.

BTW, where exactly do I use the strap wrench? At the very front part of the compressor pulley where the tangs are located? (The tangs that the sensor detects).

Thanks, scoobywagon. I'll try that tomorrow. Should I just use battery voltage at the compressor? It sat empty for many months. I know that's not good, but circumstances forced my to forget about it for a while.

So I added refrigerant to the low side today. Reading 45psi-right at the maximum allowed pressure according to the gauge. When I pushed the Max AC button, sure enough, the compressor was not turning, the belt was heating up and there was a hell of a squeal. Because this is happening, it sounds as though the low pressure switch is satisfied since the clutch is trying to engage. Is this correct? If so, then the compressor must be locked up. Is there anyway to manually free it up? Can I force it to turn over manually a few times to free it up? Again, the compressor worked fine before I had to replace the condensor. Thanks.

No, it hasn't been recharged yet.

1986 GL. Had to replace my AC condensor during the summer due to a fence poking through it (long story). The AC was original R12 and worked well. Of course, the system is now depressurized. I want to convert to 134a when I recharge. My girlfriend has tried to turn on the AC a few times and she says that there is a terrible squeal for about 3-5 seconds. I'm guessing that the compressor won't run due to lack of oil and refrigerant and that's causing the squeal. I definitely don't want to run it dry as she did a couple of times, but I need to know if the compressor will run before I recharge so that I don't waste a recharge kit. Any ideas of how to test the compressor before I recharge? Again, it worked fine before I changed the condensor. Thanks.

Thanks, txakura

yeah, tried that but I got a bit confused. Maybe I'm just looking into this too much (which happens a lot with me). According to Gabriel.com, the part I need is g51173, again for my GL 4WD sedan. I happened to notice that this part is also for a Loyale FrWD coupe. That's why I was trying to get some knowledge about the differences in struts between 4WD and FrWD struts and the differences between struts on wagons, sedans and coupes. I'm thinking that there is a possibility that the listed part number is wrong, however unlikely.

Does anybody know the Gabriel part number for a rear strut on a 1986 GL 4WD sedan? The strut part number on there now is KYB VL23 21007GA431. Also, what is the difference between the struts on 2WD vs. 4WD? The difference between sedan, wagon and coupe?

I think that you can view the pics of the brackets at this url: http://photos.yahoo.com/yorab Again, I think that the PS should be okay, but it wouldn't pass. You can see that the brackets are bolted in place. I wonder if it would pass if the brackets were welded.

Some of you are certainly giving me hope. I will call my buddy to see if he has time to help me out with a band aid. I wish I could post the pics of the brackets (one on each side) that somebody has already put in. It looks like the bracket on the PS might be enough to stiffen the frame because it extends from solid frame to solid frame past the small rust hole. But of course the inspection stations won't pass it. I agree with the conspiracy theory on this one. The bracket on the DS looks like it just needs to be extended a bit to get to solid frame. By the way, one post mentioned a little bit of flex. How safe will a band aid be? I'm okay with the band aid and a little bit of flex, but if this is extremely hazardous, I don't want anybody else with me.

I forgot to mention that I have a buddy who once ran his own shop. He now works on river dredging equipment, but he still works in his garage once in a blue moon. A few bucks and all the beer he can drink is now his fee for friends' vehicles. I may be able to talk him into working on it if there isn't too much involved. Any ideas?