yorab

You may want to check the fuel pump relay. The relay on my '86 GL 4wd is up under the dash near the steering column.

I went online and ordered two new relays. From what I gather (I could be wrong), the four relays in that aree are the same 12v 22A relays. If any of the others go bad I will have a spare. I found that my '86 EA82 uses the same part number relay as the earlier EA81 models (both 12v 22A), but the EA81 relays cost 10 bucks while the EA82 relays cost 15 bucks. Both have the same shape so they will tuck away under the dash nicely. I bought the cheaper relays figuring that as long as the specs are the same and the part numbers are the same, both will work.

I found the relay under the steering column behind the dash. It was sticking. Had to tap it with a screwdriver to get it to work.

the local Autozone had a resistor pack for 41 bucks. It's on order. How exactly does one go about testing a relay to determine if it is ok? I'll try to get back when I get the resistor in and the relays checked.

I may try to solder the coil back together, but I think the solder won't stick to the brittle coils. They broke in a couple of places. Where exactly do I find these relays for the blower?

Before I had a chance to check the relay, I bumped the resistor pack coils and one broke. They are very brittle. Does anybody know where to find another pack?

By the way, it's a 1986 GL manual 4wd.

My heater blower has been acting kinda strange since last winter. I've finally gotten a chance to do some work on it. Here's the lowdown: if the engine is cold, the blower will COME ON and STAY ON indefinitely as long as I don't turn off the ignition. Works fine at all blower speeds. If, for instance, I stop by a gas station and turn the ignition off with the engine warmed up, the blower will not come on after I restart the car. I have tried to jump voltage to the blower while the engine is warm and the blower will run fine. I removed the resistor pack but I don't know how to test them. My resistor pack consists of three open coils, not the glass tube kind that I have read about in other posts. Any ideas?

I have an '86 GL sedan. Love the car. I bought it at 186,000 miles from a guy who didn't want to pay to have his broken T-belts replaced. While I did the T-belts, I went ahead and did the head gaskets as a cylinder had low compression. I had to replace the fuel pump last week (though I hear this is very rare). Pull your vac lines while engine is running and check for vac. Mine had a couple of clogged lines. If you need to replace lines, remember that many have accurate orifices in them. I don't know where to find the orifices. This thing runs like a champ and almost every component and system works fine

Just rebuilt my carb on a 1986 Subaru GL EA82 4wd sedan. I was wondering about the operation of the fast idle cam. I understand the process to work in this way. The choke spring closes the choke fully when the throttle is opened. The choke arm pushes the fast idle cam CCW. As the throttle is let off, the fast idle arm comes to rest on the first step of the fast idle cam. As the choke heater warms the bi-metal spring, the choke arm pulls back CW. Here's where I have a question. Should the fast idle cam have enough spring force to turn CW with the motion of the choke arm, thereby dropping the fast idle arm to the 2nd step, 3rd step, etc? Or, do you have to punch the throttle after the choke heats up to allow the fast idle arm to drop off of the fast idle cam? I have always been led to believe that as the choke heats, the fast idle slowly returns to curb idle speed automatically via the fast idle cam steps. I have a scanned pic of the cam and arms but I don't know how to include it.

Hey Sweet, I will try to jump power to the motor next time the motor doesn't work. Very good idea.

It just seems odd that the blower motor will work fine for hours at a time at any and all speeds as long as I don't turn the engine off. I'm afraid a JY motor may do the same thing. I'll try NAPA or some other auto parts.

Hellol First time post. I've got a few problems to work out. I'll start with only one. I have a 1986 Subaru GL carbed, EA82. Love this car. My heater blower works fine when the engine is cold. If I leave the car running the heater blower will run forever whether the engine is hot or cold. If I turn the car off when the engine is warm, the heater blower will not turn on again after I start the car up again. At first I thought that the problem was intermittent, but after a few hundred episodes of this, I am almost certain that the problem is related to the temperature of the engine. Any help would be appreciated.