SubiKing907
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Posts posted by SubiKing907
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Im just a perfectionist. Yes it leaks oil on my driveway, but i mostly want to rebuild it because when I got it the cooling system was in shockingly terrible shape. Rad was beat, hole in two hoses. Oil was filthy and low.
Truth be told I could actually wait another 40k or 50k miles, but why wait?
@newmexguyhow much are you asking? I live in Eagle River, AK.
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Hi guys, I want to overhaul my ea82 Manuel.
What advice would you have for rebuild kits? Or maybe on where to source a block already overhauled?
Is there any other thoughts you guys might have for me in this endeavor?
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Can you describe the sound more precisely? When did it start? Mid-drive? On cold start? Does it go away or change when the engine reaches temperature? How does it change with RPM?
If possible take a video with the best possible audio you can. Post it here, or post it on YouTube and post tbe link for us. That will help us give you better answers.
How many miles?
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After reading your post, I played the video through my cars audio for a better listen. Hard to say, it sounds a lot like mine did and I drove it for years and over 80,000 fairly abusive miles that way. Lol.
Yours does seem a little harsher than mine, and I didn't have any forced induction. Maybe try for a better recording if possible? Some of these more guys here that are more experienced than myself could probably give you more info with that.
If I had to pick one, personally I'd say worn or insufficiently lubricated lifters.
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9 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
The belts going haywire can be the switch inside the door latch, or the wiring for it. Mine was wonky for a while, and I messed with the door switch on the pillar thinking that would fix it considering it dose the door open light on the dash and the dome light. Nope the seat belts have a separate switch in the door latch that has 3 wires. You can test this by opening the door, then pulling the door latch closed, the belts will move. Dirt and grease builds up and can mess with the switch contacts. I used some wd40 and rinsed it all out. Switch freed up and I give it just a dab of white lithium grease.
Good to know! That's a good tip. In my car the problem seemed to resolve itself. The belts work as they should and they haven't done anything funny for a few years. But should they start getting ideas again, now I know what to do!
I've put a LOT of love into my 92. But I've asked a lot of the car, and have put it through a lot. I've welded a snowmachine deck to the roof, and driven that car up mountains with said snowmachines, dirt bikes, etc on the roof, and that's just the beginning. It's even been featured in the local paper for my wild ideas and builds. Lol.
The Loyale is an excellent vehicle, if cared for they are borderline indestructible. I've asked way way more of my 92 than it was ever designed to do, and it's always given it to me. It's never said no. But I also have put the work, love, and money into it so it could handle those extremes and keep on running.
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Yes, I see that coolant line from the thermo and dissappearing under the intake behind the p/s pump. And there is coolant on the block. I bet that's the source, or that gasket under the throttle body. I will investigate when I get off work tonight and post my findings.
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GD, you legend you.
I mean, your subi might just be haunted. My 92 was that way for a while. You'd be on the highway and the automatic belts would randomly start rolling forward. And you'd be sitting there trying to drive with this belt in the way, thinking, "...seriously...?"
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Very interesting! I didn't even know recore-ing was a thing. But im no master mechanic and I'm not going to try to pretend lol.
I bet the radiator I have is the Subaru factory radiator. I did find a replacement online with aluminum cores, I'll find the link and post it. See what you think.
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1990 Loyale/Manuel
After running the engine for a little while, coolant steam seems to rise from the center of the engine, around the throttle body and under where the air intake clamps on. Any idea where this is coming from? I didn't think there was coolant connections right there.
It doesn't overheat. Or at least the gauge says it's not overheating and it has no symptoms of definite overheating. Although one time, after driving on the highway for about 15 minutes, I got out and saw some dried fluid on the side of the car, like it came from the overflow reservoir.
Any words of wisdom guys before I knuckle into this?
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Something happened between disassembly and reassembly. It's hard to say exactly what, but I would trace your turn signal connections and any thing else you think could be touching something it shouldn't. Check your grounds as well.
I assume this is a Loyale or GL you're working on. As for the fuel gauge, there is an access panel under the carpet in the back. There are two wires accessible without opening the access panel. Make sure they are clean, and have good contact. To check the voltage you'll need the key in the run position.
Under the access panel is the sender unit. I would personally not recommend opening it. Since it was working before, and you didn't open it, the fuel gauge problem shouldn't be there. It's sealed by some very sticky black glue, and if you open it you'd have to ensure it's sealed back up. Wouldn't want your ride to smell of gas, or worse, should the vehicle roll, start a fire.
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Thank you all for the info and the link! I appreciate it. Going to get a new rad and cap Monday.
On 3/24/2022 at 11:48 AM, subaru1988 said:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/osc-935/make/subaru/model/loyale/year/1990
^ That's the one I have, and for the money, I'm impressed with it. The hoses went right on with no issues, however, it is NOT an "exact fit". You have to persuade
the core support with some body tools (or hammer and pieces of metal/wood) to get it in there, but it's not a big deal. I find it hard to believe you can't get a radiator cap at your local parts store.
You are absolutely correct, I bet the cap and maybe even a rad could be found locally, but I really try to make every effort to get genuine Subaru parts whenever possible before going to discount auto part store. With some exceptions of course, you know what I mean.
I fixed the weak start/won't run problem. Seems it was a combination of a old fuel filter and a vacuum leak.
I also localized the localized the source coolant steam but have yet to pin point it. It seems to rise from the dead center of the engine, beneath from where the intake hose clamps on.
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Probably a complete overhaul of the cooling system with the new rad and cap.
Where can I get a new rad? It's a discontinued part as well a the cap for the 90 Loyale/Manuel trans.
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On 3/21/2022 at 5:30 AM, DaveT said:
F or the dissappearing coolant, it can be going into the intake at the manifold gaskets, or the throttle body seal. Or a failing headgasket. Any of these can start very slowly, leaving no evidence.
I mentioned previously I would get the milage when various components have been replaces. Here it is.
155,000 - Rear control arms, left rear wheel cylinder
157,913 - intake manifold
157, 950 - timing belts
195,700 - drive shaft
203,000 - front wheel bearings and seals
I think I need a new radiator and rad cap. I think I should do a bubble test to see if the hg are damaged.
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Yeah that makes sense. I will look. I would imagine i would have noticed something like that but anything is possible.
Just took the car on a good road test. Runs good, doesn't die. But now, after going home, 17mi down the highway, I noticed a good bit of smoke/steam from the hood. Smelled like coolant. This is new. I didn't investigate. I just went inside. It's dark and it's been a long day. I wonder what's wrong now. The temp gauge didn't get over 1/3 and had no other symptoms.
Guess I'll have to check it out tomorrow, but I'm supposed to work tomorrow.
If you guys have any thoughts on the matter please share.
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Interesting. I will check those, and probably get new ones anyways. When I was working on it, I did realize the fuel filter is a genuine Subaru filter... probably the factory filter. If it is, that's a 32 year old filter. Lol. Definitely replacing today.
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Hey guys.
So after some reading up on wiring and fuses and all your advice, followed by the appropriate disassembly and diagnostics... I found nothing as far as why it wont run. So I put it back together.
And now it runs. Just like it did before, maybe slightly better. So now I'm SUPER confused.
Why did it lose power on the highway like that? Why did it it die when I put the clutch to the floor and not fire back up? Biggest of all, why is it working now? I didn't do anything, maybe tightened the hose clamp around the intake.
Just drove it home without a problem. I'm happy, but confused. I don't like mysteries lol.
GeneralDisorder, I would post a video for you, but it decided it wants to be a car again I guess.
DaveT, I had the intake manifold done not too long ago, I'll get the milage for you. I hope the hg isn't goin out.
Subaru1988, you're right about my radiator. It's been on my list for a while. I don't know what happened to the car before I had it, but the rad is in fairly rough shape.
Come spring I intend to replace the radiator and the fan. I'd like to find a genuine Subaru fan, but I know thats a long long shot.. maybe I can rebuild the one I have..
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Also, I should add, this car ran a little warm. The gauge would sometimes rise just to about 3/4 of the way, never in the red, not one time. Highest it would get is slightly less then a pencil's width from the top, and the come back to the center or lower.
It's done this for a long time. The cooling fan doesn't work I don't think but literally all the driving the car gets is highway miles, so while I would like to fix it, since it almost always has 60mph air flowing and I have so far been unable to find a new unit, I haven't made it a critical priority.
Where is/are the coolant temp sending units on this thing? All the info I've found has been confusing... about where they are, if there's one or two, etc. Are you able to clarify this for me please? I've heard the cts can cause significant drivability problems.
It does eat coolant slowly.. but im not sure where it's going. It's not leaking. It's not blowing any white smoke or coolant s.elling eexhaust. I top it off from time to time but I'd love to figure out where it's going.
Finally, I'm not sure it's related, bu three weeks ago I heard loud BANG come from somewhere. Think of a big block of steel, falling flat on a bigger dense peice of metal. Like that.
Really freaked me out. I was hunting for like an hour and half what did that. No luck, no other associated symptoms to go with it, it didn't stall, shake, lurch, nothing. No clue on that one. Super weird.
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Hi GeneralDisorder,
Honestly I hoped you'd see this and respond. And you did! Much faster than I thought though! Thank you.
If the pump was bad, would it still start for a moment before dying, the way it is? How can I test it? I don't own the appropriate gauge.
Any other ideas if I eliminate the pump?
What do you think about timing?
Is Gloyale still around?
And MilesFox?
I really respect the three of you and admire and envy your Subaru knowledge.
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Hey guys, I'm back.
1990 Subaru Loyale w/ push button 4x4
205,000mi
After months problem free, the ol Loyale decided it was time to issue me a new headache. Lol
I was coming home on the highway, I went to accelerate to overtake a vehicle to make room for merging traffic when the car lost all its power. I could feel the engine skip slightly a few times, so I put the clutch to the floor, and the rpms dropped to zero. So I put it in 4th and popped the clutch, it started, but again had no torque. That's when I pulled over.
Fast forward to this morning. Went back to the car. It starts sometimes but dies quick. It has fuel. I asked a fellow church member to pull me to my another friend's shop. We took off the rubber air intake and poured a little fuel into the single port injection while I turned the key. It kept running. We took slightly off the hose on the downstream side of the fuel filter. It squirted fuel. Now what?
I appreciate any advice. Thank you guys, you've been absolutely amazing in the past.
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I know this thread is from years ago but I'm genuinely curious what ultimately got her goin' for you again. If you're still active I'd love to know!
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Any idea what the voltages should be? If I am getting proper power to the unit, then that proves a bad sending unit right?
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Hey guys.
I've got a 92 Loyale I've been rebuilding, and I think I've got everything squared away but one thing is still bothering me: the fuel gauge doesn't function. It always shows empty. I could track my mileage, and I've had to do that before in another vehicle, but I like everything to work.
I really don't know much about how to go about this. I know there's the access panel under the carpet in the back, but beyond that I'm not sure how to proceed in an efficient and logical way.
The two wires under the access panel are corroded as hell. So I'm going to clean that all up. I really hope it's not the sending unit, I really don't want to have to try a chase down a new or aftermarket one!
Any thoughts guys? Thanks
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Thanks guys.
Sorry I kinda dropped the thread, I've been in the hospital for about the last three weeks. I just got out a few days ago. Collapsed lung, they drained a liter and a half of blood from two chest tubes, not fun.
But the bucket of parts I had ready when I left was there when I got back. The bearings are in. Thank you everyone for your help and insight! Hopefully that's the last main issue I have to resolve before I have this Loyale rebuilt and distance worthy!
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'91 Loyale - Totaled, Parts anyone?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
How much for the engine in its entirety? Super interested!!