95LEGOBW

Source of slowness found: The car had thick rubber OEM floormats. The driver's side mat had slid forward under the gas pedal, restricting the pedal's movement. Fixed mat, and attached it to the seat posts to prevent further problems. Now, the gas pedal goes full travel, and the automatic transmission can be made to downshift when needed. Acceleration restored! It's still a slow car, but it's no longer unsafely slow. Just wanted to close this loop. Thanks for all the help, folks.

My mistake, it was correct in the title, but not in the text. It's the stock, original 2.2. Must have had displacment envy and typed 2.5 by mistake.

Sorry, engine was correct in title, incorrect in the message. It is the stock original 2.2 engine.

Tires are 205/55/16, It's a Plus 1 rim size, but tires are same diameter as stock. Plugs & wires have about 10K on them. Air filter is clean.

I was getting the infamous P0325 Knock Sensor code on my 95 2.2 (correction) Legacy Wagon with 199K miles on it. Thanks to FairTax's :banana:post, I decided to tackle this fix. I removed the old sensor, cleaned up the surfaces, then re-installed. Got the code again immediately. (I had disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, in order to clear old codes.) The old sensor had no cracks. I measured its resistance and got 550 ohms. Wiggling around the wire and connector, I found no loss of continuity. In my hands, it didn't seem to be a bad sensor. When installing it, I had even used a torque wrench to tighten it to the lower end of the torque range. Still, I was getting the code. So, I bought a new Knock Sensor online for $13, shipped. (A good price, by the way. NAPA wanted about $50, and Subaru wanted even more.) I measured the new sensor's resistance and got the same reading as the old sensor. I installed the new one, cleared the codes, then went for a long drive. No CEL! The car still seems underpowered, though. On freeway on-ramps, it must be floored to get up to speed in time, and it's best to turn off the AC. I was hoping the new knock sensor would give some power back, but no luck. This car is operating near sea-level -the car is so underpowered that it would be dangerous at higher elevations. I should have mentioned this, too: It's an automatic. Also, we have to run the 10% alchohol blend fuel here, so there's less energy/gallon than real gasoline, but that's all we've had here for years. I run "regular" octane in the Subie.

I cleaned the MAF sensor on my 95 LEGOBW with CRC MAF spray. The sensor looked fine before and after the cleaning. The car wasn't running poorly, but I had the spray, and it was easy to do. At the same time, I pulled off the PCV valve and cleaned it out. It appeared to be fine, clicking back and forth like it's supposed to. Lastly, I sprayed some of the CRC MAF sensor cleaner in the throttle body, while I had the air inlet pipe off. Buttoned it all back up and it ran fine. Next day, get a Check Engine Light (CEL) for a P0325 code, for the Knock Sensor. I had the code cleared, but it came back in about 20 miles of highway driving. The car runs fine, just slow, as usual. So, what should I check? I wasn't getting the P0325 code before I did the cleaning, so I don't think the Knock Sensor is bad. Thanks, y'all.

:headbang:Just wanted to let y'all know that the relays plus HD wiring kit I purchased from Daneil Stern Lighting is the Cat's Pajamas for improving front lighting on my 95 Leg OBW. They throw a lot more light than before the change. The stock headlight wires are tiny thin things, and lose a lot of voltage before getting to the bulbs. I think my lights are brighter now, with stock bulbs, than they were before, with "+50" bulbs. Of course, I keep the plastic lenses polished out, naturally. If you're disappointed in output from your stock Subie headlights, I recommend improving the wiring and adding appropriate relays. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to my fellow Subie-philes!

It was, indeed, there behind the seats. What was confusing were the tubes & wires accessible UNDER the seat, where there was no access panel. Thanks to you folks, we kept looking, and found it, right where you said.

The fuel pump on my 95 Outback Legacy Wagon has died. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank. There does not appear to be an access panel behind the back seat. Am I missing something? It sure would be great to not have to drain the tank and drop it. I've checked the online places that show pictures of an access panel under the carpet, but I don't see that on my car. Is that possible? Thanks.

A quick email to Daniel Stern solved it. I had misunderstood the polarity at the bulbs due the ground-switching nature of Subaru's headlight wiring.

Thanks for all the replies to my original post, folks. I know about buffing the haze off the headlights. That's good advice, but not what I am asking here. I am interested in getting full voltage to the headlights, and the stock skinny wiring and crappo connectors are the limiting factor. I am using a relay kit with ceramic connectors purchased from Daniel Stern Lighting, installed with heavy duty wiring. I have installed it as instructed, but not getting the results I expect. Low beams are dim, then when I switch to hi-beam, the lights won't go back to low beam. I am specifically interested in hearing from someone who has succesfully upgraded the headlight wiring, using relays, on a '95 or so Legacy. If you don't have specific knowledge on this, please hold off on your replies. I know some posters have done this wiring mod, so let me hear about how you wired your rig! Thanks, I'll really appreciate it.

I'm working on getting better output from my headlights on my 95 Legacy and the first step is to run some heavier wire to the headlights, and use relays to switch the power through the wires. I have it all wired up in what I think is the right way, but I'm getting some weird results. I have two specific questions: 1) Has Subaru done something weird with the factory wiring that would make a normal relay set up have problems? 2) Has anyone done this set up with a similar age Legacy, and how did you do it? Thanks in advance!

So, summarizing what I am reading here, if I get a 2.5, I should expect it to have HG problems eventually, and I should adjust my price accordingly. Also, an option is to look for one that has already had the HGs done. That raises a couple new questions: - How often is the HG a one-time fix? - If not a one-time fix, how long until it has to be done again?

Well, the time has come, and I need to add a car to the fleet so my wonderful teenage daughter has something to drive. I'd like to go with Subaru, since they're made so well, and I have had great luck with a 95 Outback I bought with 170K on it, several years ago. Here's the scoop. I need to spend less than <$5K. I would like something newer and more powerful than my '95 Outback (which has the 2.2). It seems like the models with the 2.5 engines are to be avoided. Is that correct, should I avoid all 2.5 models? Thanks for your advice!

Yes, I removed the two bolts, but the fixture would not come forward out of the bumper because the wire was too short. Also, there was not enough room around the fixture to allow me to reach in and unplug it. So, it came out the bottom, after remove a belly-pan thing.

I put a strap wrench on it, and it finally budged! Now to figure out what the replacement fulb is. The bulb inside is very small. It is the kind that has a wire lead attached. It says on it 64151 Osram Germany. On the other side it says 37R 00620 12V 55W. Then, at the very bottom near the bulb it has the magic words, "H3". So, it is probably an H3 bulb. My mission now is to find some H3's in AMBER, for conspicuity. Kind of a pain to get to this little bulb. Had to pull part of the protective panels on the chassis off to get to the lamp assembly. If subaru had just put a few more inches on the wire, it could have just come out the front of the bumper. Still, if I don't have to replace them for another 15 years, I should be happy.

lkj

Here's another view Looking at this, it seems like the back ought to turn off. I can turn it about 1/2 inch without much difficulty, but then it stops and won't budge. Packers are going to win, so turn off the TV and tell me how to open this puppy up!

Thanks for the reply, GeneralDisorder, sir! I have pulled the fog light assembly, and I'm stumped on how to open it. It looks like this. Anyone know how to open this up? There is a large finned cover on the back that looks like it ought to turn off, but I can only turn it about a half inch. I don't want to start prying at it, because I'm afraid I'll break it. I'm sure it hasn't been opened since it was assembled in Indiana 16 years ago.

I have a 95 Legacy Outback Wagon. This was the 1st year for the Outback, and it has small clear fog lights set into the lower bumper. (In 96 and later, Subaru used the large lights that everyone is used to seeing.) Can anyone tell me what bulb fits the 95 Outback foglight? I can find this unique foglight assembly on the Subaru parts fiche online, and I can see that Subaru wants $20 for the bulb, but I can't tell what bulb it is. Any suggestions? My owner's manual is for the generic Legacy, and so it doesn't have the bulb information for this Outback-specific feature. Thanks everyone!

Thanks 86Subaru, but I'm looking for carpeted mats. I have the all weather ones, and they're nice in the muddy season. I need some carpeted mats for the rest of the time.

Good recommendation, Porcupine73. Unfortunately that dealer wants $25 for freight on the $59 mats. I've got to find a dealer closer to WA/OR.

What's the best place to buy new custom-fit floor mats (carpet, not rubber) for a 95 Legacy wagon? And, how much should I pay? JC Whitney wants ~$60 for a front-only set.

Here's a question for those of you who have rebuilt an engine or had the oil pan off. How close to the bottom of the pan is the tip of the oil dipstick?

Has anyone here had any luck with the cv boot repair kits that use a seam? I need to fix one outside boot and need to do it myself - money is tight.