95LEGOBW

Time for new pads on the front of my 95 Legacy Outback Wagon. What upgraded pads should I get for better braking? The car only goes 500 miles/month, so I can handle something that wear's calipers more than OEM pads. I'm in a cool, damp, but salt free climate, so the pads have to work as soon as I hit the peddle, without any warmup time. Appreciate your thoughts, gang.

63112A &B look like the part (assembly) I'm looking for. Can someone confirm that these attach to the car, not the hatch?

Thanks for the emailed part numbers, nipper, that's almost what I need. I'm actually looking for the parts that attach to the car on either side of the hatch. Suggestions?

My 95 Legacy OB Wagon has the typical rust on the little spring contraptions on both sides of the rear hatch opening. I'd like to buy new ones at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com, but I can't figure out what part to order. Anyone know?

Update: The new mats came in about a week. These were OEM rubber mats for 2000+ Legacys. I was curious to see how they fit in my 95. Well, they are actually slightly smaller than the 95 OEM mats. They offer adequate coverage, and did not require any cutting to fit in. They fit as well or better than generic mats from the local parts store. They appear to be very heavy duty, and I got all four for about $40, on clearance at the link provided above.

Thanks for the advice. Ordered tonight. They had no grey ones in the specials, so went with the rubber ones.

OEM Floor Mats - Where to get 'em for 95 Leg?

The seats in my 95 Leg OB Wagon are totally bagged out. The material's fine, but the cushions are sagging. What are the better OEM seats from Subaru? I don't need leather, but do would like good lumbar and calf support. Suggestions?

Thanks for all the input. It was the oil level - I hadn't filled it fully after the oil change. All is well.

Changed the oil on my 95 Leg (2.2). After refilling the oil and starting the engine I get a ticking that sounds like a lifter. This was not present before the oil change. After idling for several minutes the ticking is still there. Oil pressure light goes off as soon as the car starts, just like it's supposed to. Any suggestions? Did a hydraulic lifter leak down and not re-pressurize?

Suggestion: check for dragging brakes, especially from the rear E brake. Drive for a while, pull over, then feel the wheel near the center. If it's rubbing, it will be hot. Feel all four and note differences. Just one of my rears was hanging, just some of the time, so it took awhile to find it, but once fixed it added 3 mpg.

Thanks all for the advice. I was going to try tightening it, but it broke w/in a few blocks of home last night. Installed a new belt, which took me about 30 minutes, and all is well. I'm keeping some tools in the car, in case it needs another adjustment. Thanks all for your help.

I had to put it back together last night, so I tightened it so it deflected about 3/4". It occasionally had a light squeel, so I tightened it a tiny bit more. Squeel gone. Thanks for the input.

End of story: with the return of cold weather here, the left rear started squeeling again. MPG dropped to under 20 around town. Off to the brake shop, where they said the caliper was sticking, NOT the E-brake. The shop replaced BOTH rear calipers for free, even though it was out of warranty and I was not the owner when the original work was done. MPG is back up to the low 20s around town. Still feels like there's too much rolling resistance, but hey, it only drives 5K miles/year, so I'll live with it.

How do I know how much tension to put on my new alternator belt? (95 Legacy OBW) It would be way easy to overtighten it.

My new to me 95 Legacy OBW began acting up recently. It's getting a pretty loud squeel from under the hood when I first fire it up. It's getting worst. At first the squeel went away in a few seconds. Now, it stays on for half a block. If I have the headlights on, turning them off makes the noise go away immediately. Then, I can start the noise again by hitting the fan and the rear defroster. If I let it squeel for another 100' or so of driving, it will suddenly just stop squeeling, and the engine suddenly feels like it has more power available. It's as if the parking brake was suddenly released. My uneducated GUESS is that there is an alternator problem, making it very hard to spin the alternator, and thus putting a large load on the engine. Under some conditions, such as when it is cold out (below 40 F), and just after starting when the battery has been drawn down, the extra load makes it hard to turn the alternator, which is resulting in belt squeel. No idiot lightls are coming on, and the car does start right away. Headlights are not dimming. So, I think there's enough power being generated most of the time. THOUGHTS anyone?

I need one as well - I'm in PDX area. Let me know if you find an extra!

Thanks for all the interesting replies to my original post! I had asked who, besides the dealer & Jiffy Lube, I should trust to flush the auto trans on my 95 Legacy OBW. Here's the tally on replies so far: 4 for "Don't flush, it's bad for your trans. Do several drains instead." 1 for "I tried flushing once and had no problems." 1 for "I'll help you drain it for a micro-brew" (thanks!) 3 helpful replies on an unrelated topic. And, answers to the original question: zip! Thanks for all the interesting replies! My next question, if anyone's still following this thread: If a flush will loosen gunk in my system, but not get it all out, and thus damage the transmission, why doesn't that happen with the "drain several times" process? Also, if the "drain several times" process doesn't loosen gunk, what good is it?

My favorite local shop (in Portland, OR) doesn't have the machine to fully flush the automatic transmission fluid on my 95 Outback, so I need to find another shop. I cringe at letting Jiffy Lube touch a Subaru, but I'm sure the dealer wants big bucks. Suggestions?

I'll buy your leather seats, when the time comes.

Will '03 Forrester XT Front Seats bolt into my 95 Legacy? A local person upgraded her Forester to leather, so has some decent cloth seats to sell. My 95 Legacy OBW front seats are bagged out. Will these Forester seats bolt right in? Anyone actually done this?

In addition to stickers and emblems that say Outback, don't forget the groovy fake hood scoop.

Also, note that some Outbacks are Imprezza's not Legacy's.

My 95 OBW with AT, AWD, 2.2L Gets just 20 mpg around town. I'm wondering how well others do with their 2.2 AT/AWD.

R & R'd the starter on my 95 Legacy a couple weeks ago. I struggled with the bottom bolt, too. Yes, it is a nut, as a previous post says. I got to it from the TOP with a short curved wrench. It was very hard to get to with a socket, but a curved wrench from Sears did the trick. If you have large arms, it might be easier from the bottom, but it actually wasn't bad from the top once the wrench was on the nut.