PictureChasers
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Posts posted by PictureChasers
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i know justy's are used in TSD... there was one at the novice event i was in... although it didn't compete...
but! at pacific forest rally there was a justy! yup... PFR is a stage rally...
this is the team profile... http://www.pacificforestrally.com/archives/2005/bio/bio_McLaren.htm
that was a fun event...
if you like i could maybe find a way to contact him and see if they have any worn out, yet still usable rally tires... for competition, they are to worn... but for the average Joe, still lots of life left in em...
You mean this little guy?
I talked with the co-driver of this car Richard Lynch this summer at the PNE in Vancouver. I can't recall the tire details, but they use a stock or very close sized tire. I was looking to fill the wheel wells for some extra offroad clearance.
For people looking for 15" and I think he had 14" contact Patrick at Rocket Rally Racing in Squamish BC. Patrick told me he has his back wall of garage covered in used rally tires, but no 13" of course. I am planning to go see their new AWD chassis dyno, they claim the best in Western Canada, eh?
I could not make it to photograph PFR. What happened to Partick Robert, PFR results say "retired"?
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Well not 100% on the earlier models but the later ones not avalible in the states deffinitly are rebadges. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1996-SUBARU-JUSTY-1-3GX-AWD-WHITE_W0QQitemZ4583931307QQcategoryZ18277QQcmdZViewItem
I'm 100% on the earliers. I have been doing almost nothing for the last week except for designing my PVC garage & doing Justy research. After realizing that I must become my own "expert" to keep 2 HIGH use cars running, I am trying to learn all that I can about Justy's, much of it deciphered from "folklore".
I'm not sure about 95's but believe they were never sold in Canada or USA. I am certain that the 88-94's had little or nothing in common with Suzuki's. The 96's forward even LOOK exactly like a Suzuki. They are most certainly rebadged Suzuki's.
I have no plans to adopt any Susuki parts, though I DO plan to select a car to adapt suspension parts from.
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You may also want to look at a Suzuki Swift GTi engine. I believe it may just bolt on, but I could be wrong, the Subaru Justy drivetrain is basicly a Suzuki Swift IIRC.
I dont think that will be a bolt on, and I have no desire to throw MORE weird stuff in here :-)
To my knowledge the 95's and up are made by Suzuki, but 94 and previous have nothing in common.
Thanks
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Tire size update for Justy's
After finding NO 13" used rally tires, and learning that size range around 165/65-13 is almost impossible to find a decent tire, we scored a deal on some spring closeout Firestone full winters from Kal-Tire in Lacombe Alberta. We bought 5 & studded them. They work so good we bought 7 more! Now I rotate 6 studs for winter, and have 6 fresh winters for summer fun!
My 91 Justy likes 175/75-13 with some very light trimming. Had to trim mostly in front of rear wheels. I notched out the bottom rib where the jack grabs, then cut off only a small but of rear quarter panel up to the wheel tub. They are tight but do not rub on INSIDE of wheel in front of real wheels. I know many use a BFH to fix this but I like my 4 wheel alignment the way it is. They rarely rub on plastic tubs in front wheel wells. Some say to remove them, some say no way to protect air intake. I am undecided...
My wife's 93 Justy GL doesnt like anything except stock 155/65-13 which usually suck, but not stick. That spot on inner rear wheel is tighter on her car, but could be small difference in rims or I guess just the way the 2 different tire brands actually sit on rim.
I LOVE my 175/75-13 Firestone studs. Staying with this size for a year or so until I get to a 2" (safe) complete body lift, and whatever I can manage to rework in suspension lift.
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Crankshaft source
http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/products.html
complete crank kits. Also ask them about connecting rods. Myabe give ccr a call too.
nipper
PS spoted this on the justy board as to mode of failure
http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=enginetech&action=display&thread=1076447357
Sent an email to Standard for price on crankshaft, thanks. CCR doesnt do Justy engines. I found a guy in Oregon today who rebuilds oil pumps to factory spec. That and a SW guage should prevent any oil issues.
I am seeking a dreveable beater in BC while I rebuild mine, found 2 but both knock, bummer!
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Can anyone provide a parts list for Justy engine, preferably with part numbers. Prefer 1990 fuel injected, 5 spd AWD.
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Interesting that all the sites quote the range rover as the first one through the Darien gap, but they had to call in an old beat up landrover to scout trails for them...
http://www.transafricana.com/index.php?option=displaypage&Itemid=169&op=page&SubMenu=
about halfway down the page
Sounds like a fun trip you have planned.
Actually I had thought they were both Landies, was surprised to realize it was a Rangie. I read a detailed account, they didn't really drive, more like hire 17 natives to muscle the car along. They talked about being left by one tribe, and the neighboring tribe would not help them, cause the tribes are hostile. The attempt previous went thru a large Columbian/Panama National park where a corrupt official tried to get a bribe, they said no. The official claimed their Range Rover as his own, and told them to walk out, or remain in the mud forever near the Rangie. One member was killed in an unrelated incident. This expedition avoided that park, making the trip much harder.
We have been planning this trip forever, practicing RV life, selecting the right vehicles. I am so glad we found the Justy's, when they run they are exactly what we want.
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I would go with subaru parts, and do a serch on the net. It wasnt the parts fault the engine failed, it was the Technician who assemebled it and didnt replace the connecting rods.
Also i think a short block would have been a wiser purchase .... hrmm .... let me look on the net tonight or tomrrow (im on pain meds and sometimes cant focus ...and im bored at home) and let me see what i can find. Can you email me privtaly the details on the car and the vin number.
Cranks shaft let the speed shop inspect it and see what they recomend. Very rare do you need to replace that even with a spun bearing.
nipper
No short blocks in North America nor crankshafts. Checking in Japan as we speak for both.
We had found 2 short blocks last spring, but we were already in the middle of rebuild. Our Canadian Subaru dealer had found none, but we later checked in the US. The short blocks and crankshafts we found last spring are now gone.
Crank was already .020" over last time, so I suspect it will be toast this time. I would prefer a new or beter condition crank this time.
I dont have VIN handy as car is still 500 miles away. It's a 90 Fun Justy, Fuel Injected 5 spd AWD.
General consensus is that it was the slightly bent & resized rod. Though there are MANY things I will do different this time. There is a guy named Ron in Oregon who rebuilds oil pumps and tests to exact OEM spec. You bet he's gonna see my oil pump!
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here is a good explination
http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-balancing.shtml
Im leary of engines that are "tighter then factory spec" . The trick is to get all the parts within spec, and as close to each other as possible. a too tight engine can be prone to oil failure, depending upon where hes tightening the specs.
Very cool article, of course RPM has no listings for a Justy...
OK balanced it is, and likely blueprinted. I am now leaning towards the rods as failure point myself after that article. Would like to say it's Subaru's fault as they should have recommend new rods, instead of resizing. Really though, I suppose it's MY fault for letting Subaru do it in the first place. I was afraid of this creepy little engine, I admit it. Now that the dealer rebuilt engine has spun bearing after only 5 months, I don't suppose I could do that much worse on my own.
So WHERE should I buy all these hard to find parts for complete rebuild? I think we will replace pistons, rods & all with NEW if we can find them. Seeking NEW crankshaft if I can find one. Anyone have a part number list for Justy engine? I am already on the phone this AM!
My head is likely perfect, but will remove and send back to machine shop. Will also send them block this time.
Have been waiting for perfect reason to buy a GOOD torque wrench. Any suggestions on best bang for buck between $50-$150USD in Canada or US?
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Since the bearing was spun, take the crank to the machine shop and let them inspect it. Also let them blue print it, and they will recomend what size bearings to get. WHne in doubt, leht the machine shop measure. And make sure you find a speed shop, not a regular machine shop if you can.
This place is a speed shop. Oroville & Omak have a big oval track community, and Paul's builds many of the race engines. There are only 3 crank grinders within 150 miles, these guys have the best crank grinder and most experience of the 3. I watched them work, and they are VERY good. They were concerned about balancing cause the rods are so skimpy already, I doubt they have ever done a Justy before. What is blue printing I forget, detailed balancing?
There was a guy on ebay claiming he makes his engines with tighter tolerances than recommended, and the only condition is stringent breakin procedure. He says motors normally are built loose so that they can be run by joe public right away. What about making clearances tighter, and breaking in properly? His engine was bored, deck & line honed, but it's apparently gone. Any thoughts?
One other thing is Subaru told me not to service the block cause it looked good, this time I think we will tank the block and have it checked. Our head looks spankin new as long as the glass beading has not left glass behind. My backyard Justy guy does not like the glass peened head, but it's milled, valves ground, new guides, and it's cleaner than new. Paul's does it for all their race engines, I think it's fine and am going to reuse head.
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there are so many things on tha list....
There is nothing worng with glass peening a cylinder head.
i think the root cause of the failure was a spun bearing pure and simple.
Pistons rarely get replaced unless the machineing marks are gone on the pistons. They are rarely replaced.
it is NEVER a waste to balance an engine, whoever said that should get a swift kick you know where. Balancing is done in fractions of an ounce to a few ounces. it makes for a smother running engine and better performance.
Oil pump should have been replaced (it could have eaten some parts from the original spun bearing). Right there is another failure on the dealers part, especially if the did not blueprint the pump.
Timing chain could have been stressed from the orignal spun bearing.
It doesnt take that long to assembly an engine once all the parts are preped and ordered.
I have never ever heard of destroking a connecting rod in my life. Thats a huge red flag right there.... do they mean oversized bearings on the crank?
Get a GOOD oil pressure and oil temperiture gauge. Bearings spin due to oil failure, or mis sizing on a new engine.
Anyone who rebuilds engines has plastigauge, and if they didnt use it should be shot.
This was a very penny wise and dollar foolish rebuild.
nipper
- 1 vote for glass peening, great
- machine marks were still on pistons and cylinder walls, compression rings perfect, oil rings shot
- I think I told dealer oil pump was new, had not considered at the time that the original spun bearing I know believe could kill the oil pump and the timing chain guide(is it plastic). I believe it was their duty to replace both pump & chain. I woiuld have approved if they suggested it.
- Rod was shortened only 2 thousands of an inch, you have to resize the bearing race. Resizing was Subaru's idea, and it HAS to be shortened a tiny bit to resize. Not 20 thousands, but only 2. You never heard of destroking a rod? A JUSTY holds the land speed record in it's class at I believe 133MPH on the Salt Flats for a 1.2L destroked to 1.0L.
- Mis sizing on a new engine? Am I correct in that if I carefully use Plastigage the old hot rodder way, that I should find most any machining or part mismatch? I dont believe Subaru uses it, and my back yard Justy expert doesn't, that's the main reason I am doing it myself!
I have only had Justy's for 6 months, and learned everyting I know in that time, mostly on this board, THANKS everyone!
Nipper your stashed 2WD Justy is a little far for me.
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I just saw the part about bent connecting rods, they should have been replaced too. This would cause the combustion forces to not be placed evenly on the crankshaft, but slightly offset. That can cause unequal forces across the bearing, insted of a triaght line force across the journal surface ..... causing .... a spun connecting rod bearing.
Balancing really isnt a big thing, it is surprisingly easy if you use a primitive balance beam and a scale. Get yourself a book on hot rod engines and it wil tell you how to do it and where to remove material.
The rod was hardly visibly bent, it was resized which makes the bearing race perfect, but I suppose that the OUTSIDE of rod was still crooked & off balance.
I had forgotten about seeing balancing in old hot rod magazines, I would do it myself on a v8, but will leave this one to the maching shop. How much could it be to balance 3 little piston/rods?
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Not that im one to ever deprive someone of going on a shopping spree to buy tools, but you wil be surprised at how few tools you need to rebuild an engine.
I am missing deep sockets, decent nut drivers and the odd everything. It's not just for the Justy, I also restore & maintain a 1 of a kind 50 year old motor coach. We have 2 DD Justy's, a DD Class C RV, and the bus parked for restoration so making minimal toolkits for each has left my red toolbox quite bare.
Our old bus received about $32,000CDN damage when hit by a reckless driver at double the speed limit in 2003. Even though other driver recieved 3 charges and me none, the "good neighbor" has not yet come thru. It seems that I am now my own 20ton bodyman. Oh well, I became a budding diesel mechanic on the roadside. We have bought a some hydraulic toys for $150 and actually enjoyed getting our door at least street legal status. This old bus saved the life of my entire family(and likely the other driver), can't wait to make it right again!
I inherited over $3,000 in Craftsman tools when I was 17 and they were ALL stolen a year later, I still miss them 20 years later. I worked as a brake press operator in metal shop around same time. This winter I am picking up a small hand brake press and pipe bender to relearn some of my old skills making a combo elephant rack/rooftop photo platform/land bridges.
Welding is my last hurdle, seems I always want something welded, and the storefront welders dont want to weld anything automotive cause of liability. I can design & fab & prep, but have always depended on someone else to stick stuff together.
I have 2 years to create an "Adventure Car" before we leave on a 45,000km journey, have been restoring the bus for 2 years already. My wife sacrifices big time and works 800km away from me to provide our expenses, and I work very long days as a photographer and bit of a programmer. She has another job interview this week in Calgary AB, and may soon be only 700km away, yippee!!
We are now 3 years into our 5 year plan to leave debt free on a 3 year adventure of photography & fun!
You would not want to see our spare parts list. My Justy has 12 new winter tires, 6 with studs, proposed to my wife while we were at Kal-Tire too, since our first date included Kal-Tire 3 years previous.
Still seeking bargain 13" stock rims in BC & WA.
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When you say over $1000 dollars in parts, what does that include? Sounds very expensive, if its only a main gone, bearings should be WELL under $100 Can. and you should be able to pick up a second hand crank with no undersize fairly cheap.....
It's over $700CDN here (with jobber discount) for all parts for total rebuild from Subaru dealer, not including a crankshaft. Good used cranks are non existant here. I am looking at one this week, but since it's the weak spot we are seeking a new crank if possible. We travel 1,000km journeys every week or 2, so we need tight cars.
We have already paid to completely rebuild this engine, and it still cooked, so we are taking no chances & replacing everything. This block has now spun bearings twice so it's not my favorite piece of metal. The rods were resized but we suspect there are at least 10 things that caused our failure in 5 month old engine. We had head planed, new valve stem seals and valve grind. I wanted heads polished but they are pretty much streamlined, they are not quite like an old dodge.
We are installing a mechanical oil pressure guage this time since that seems to be the big issue with failures. A mechanic talked me out of it last engine, so this engine I am following my gut! Also I believe a second water temp guage is simple thru block heater hole.
We changed our oil at 50km, 200km, 1,000km, and 2,000km, then every 2-3,000km with 20W-50W Castrol GTX or other brand name, Subaru oil filters. We check oil every fill and neither of our Justy's lose much. Our Subaru built one leaked a bit. Our Justy friend used aviation gasket cement on our stock Justy and it doesn't leak a drop.
Our potential failure cause list, please comment as we are planning our new engine. Keep in mind that I trust the machine work at Paul's explicitly. I will likely take this new motor work there.
Oil Pump - It was brand new so we didnt replace it, now I have learned that it was likely ruined when the original bearings packed it in
Timing Chain set - Same thing, were brand new so we left them in, both on Subaru's advice
Oil Pressure guage - Could have prevented failure I bet
Sloppy assembly - Subaru waited for a month, then rushed to assemble it.
Timing - was off 10.5 degrees
Piston Rods - Were resized and de-stroked by .002 inches, my Justy expert cringed, but they were slightly bent
Head glass beaded - I thought it was great idea, but my Justy friend again does not like glass beading, saying it's difficult to get all glass beads out. Heads were pressure washed afterwards in a spinning steaming machine with some solvent or something. These guys build many race car engines, so I think the glass beading was a good idea.
Pistons - They looked fine, but I asked Subaru mechanic 3 times to order them, he talked me out of it. I just figured that they were only $150, on top of an job that cost over $2,000 with Subaru labor.
Plug Wires - Original Subaru items were not replaced, our Bosch Platinum plugs had a burn mark on one of the wire ends, but the electrodes were beautiful
Fuel pump or filter - We learned just before spun bearing that it was running lean, likely fuel pump or filter
RPM - I drove for 9 hours at 120-140km/h, 4-4,500RPM, but everyone here says that with oil pressure that should be no problem. Temp guage ran at bottom third. Car packed it in a month later doing the speed limit
Catalytic Converter - I do NOT think it was the Cat. This car hauled rump roast, I dont run them hard, but at high speeds where limits & safety permits.
Crankshaft - turned nice at .020 inches (is that how you write 20 thou?), with Clevite bearings
Plastigage - I suspect that Subaru doesn't have any
Balance - Machine shop said it was not worth balancing, anyone balanced a Justy engine? Or other soobies? I dont want power, I want smooth reliability. Will it help, or make the parts TOO light/weak.
Genuine concern for engine - This engine was built by a Subaru dealer trying to get us out of their hair, the next one will be hand built lovingly by me!
Any other causes? Please post them but this is what I have learned so far... Any machine work advice GREATLY appreciated! I am not concerned with machine costs, I want the best engines possible within reason. Machining is cheap insurance in my opinion.
Any other tips to improve LONGEVITY and RELIABILITY are very welcome on our journeys. I'm not sure about the turning up the oil pressure relief valve screw trick? I like the idea of an external oil filter, but I think maintaining pressure is more important on these little engines.
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I can't offer much wrt the warranty stuff, but I can agree with all that has been said regarding doing work yourself.
Just got off phone with my wife, we're rebuilding ourselves.
We WERE leaning towards finding a NEW engine, but last one we found was $1,700USD, plus shipping, duty & BS factor. Then we assume that to actually get a warranty, a Subaru mechanic must screw it up, I mean install it. Now we are getting close to $3,000CDN already. If the motor cooks, Subaru tears it apart, if they decide not to honor warranty, you owe them $1,000 for removal and teardown.
This does not sound like a very good deal. I have some OK assorted tools, but going to Sears tomorrow for $800 worth of Craftsman on sale for $400. Will buy whatever else we need, and still be way ahead.
Im seeking another Justy beater anywhere in British Columbia. Prefer at least running but will look at any if the price is appropriate. I can tow them home with our RV so we may buy a couple if we can find them. Would look at very cheap ones in Washington to strip on the spot and bring parts home.
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Depending on exactly what has gone wrong, that may actually be plenty, especially if you do it yourself. I have rebuilt an ea81 for much less than that.
Not opened it up yet but it spun a bearing on a crank already turned to .020 over, so crank is very likely gone. The parts alone here are over $1000 in Canada, NOT including crankshaft.
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I will check my Subaru Justy parts book and see if the Carb and EFI crankshaft are the same. If so, I'll see if I can round one up for you but,... Shipping will kill you!!
I believe the crank, rods & Pistons are same, but not block. But that is third party info.
Shipping is worth it, if we can get our car to keep running. Our first choice is a new long block, I see you are in NC. Will located one previously, we'll see if it actually exists. Will phone him on Monday. If no long block then we will seek out brand new crankshaft. I have a line on used crank, but prefer new if we can find one anywhere in the world.
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Liability. For "re-fixing" your car in case of a screw-up that they need to correct. Read the posts on this board about cars that were improperly repaired at dealerships, that resulted in more damage that it went in with! I hate to say it, but the majority of the "mechanics" that work at dealerships are just parts-changers. Period. "Training/certification costs" is present in a utopian world only. I woud LOVE to pay the prices charged for a properly trained "mechanic" that has insight beyond a computer output.
Here Here! Our Subaru rebuilt engine just melted after 5 months, but my Dealer does not feel liable to actually provide warranty as promised.
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Take pictures and do a book..."How to keep your Justy Alive" Turn the negative experience into a positive...It worked for me!!
P.S If you do the book thing I would love to contribute!!
Jim
Viehmann, are you psychotic, I mean psychic?
I'm a professional photographer of 20 years & budding writer. For the original rebuild I photographed almost every stage of the rebuild. Removal, teardown & machine shop fully. Sporadic coverage of assembly as they took forever and tensions were getting high. This particular dealer has lost their parts/service person(over our engine), their service manager, and now I hear their senior mechanic, all since they started our engine 5 months ago.
We took the machining ourselves to the highest recommended shop we could fine, Paul's Machine Shop in Oroville, WA. I photographed every minute of machine work, those guys were great both in workmanship and for letting me shoot them. Our primary market is school text books, the machine shop images are great stuff for us.
My main article in progress is about the car's entire transformation. I travel a lot, full time in 2 years, this car is to tow behind our 1959 MCI MC-1 motor coach. A What? None were ever sold in the USA, only in Canada Eh? I believe we have the last one left of 26 made. If anyone has even trace evidence of another one please CONTACT US!
I have a full re-engineering of car planned beginning next spring. We have been planning for our journey for 3 years to date. We began "practicing" for fulltime life on the road by living in our first bus in my wife's back yard, then RV park, then 6 months on the road, now RV park for winter. I travelled for 3 months straight this year in the Canadian Rockies chasing waterfalls. My wife works but meets me most weekends, even though we are often 800km apart. In 2008 we begin a 45,000km journey covering most states, all provinces, and most of Mexico.
We don't plan a Justy book but DO plan to publish a lot of Justy info online for free, you are welcome to contribute. We are currently seeking a NEW engine directly from Subaru, I found 2 in the middle of our original rebuild but not cheap and too late for us. If I cannot find one we will rebuild at our neighborhood backyard Justy expert, who again we met too late for our initial rebuild.
Anyone aware of a NEW engine or carnkshaft for Fuel injected 5 spd Justy? Anywhere? PlEaSe?
Everything else on the Justy I plan to do myself, but I think the engine requires more finesse than I have. On the other hand I am certain that NO one cares about this engine more than me. This last one left my wife stranded at 1AM in Valemount BC. The dealer abandoned us, they gave us a refund of $700, any idea how to rebuild for $700? lol
We learned the same lesson with out 24,000lb bus. Fix it yourself! "I don't have the tools"? BUY THEM I was told by my bus mentor Russ. "I don't know how"? LEARN Russ would say. I guess our 50 year old bus is about the same as our weird little Justy. NO one in the industry really knows how to fix them, so we ALL gotta learn to do it ourselves.
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QUestion,
I found a 1991 Justy 3cyl with a 5 speed for sale. I wont say where just yet, but was wondering, do all these things have 4wd?
nipper
No they do not! Some are 2WD, what a waste. I suspect that mosr 2WD are also CVT transmission, do NOT buy a CVT unless you want to swap to 5 spd. Cars with CVT are often cleaner, with good engines. The CVT was the world's best transmission improvement ever developed, it just didn't catch on! Nor did they hold together after warranty runs out.
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As long as your not towing a boat at 75mph or have the car otherwise fully loaded you will be fine.
Do you find the justy comfortable on these long high speed runs?
nipper
Actually it cruises quite comfprtably at 85 MPH, handles great. I suspect the car itself would cruise at 95MPH, but not the engine. My mechanic says he would be concerned about anything over 70 MPH.
We have picked 75MPH 120 Km/H as our safe speed. Runs barely under 4000 RPM and still has acceleration to 85 MPH for passing.
We just don't want to kill the engine by running at 3900 RPM for several hours. Our main drive is from Penticton BC to Edson Alberta. So we must cross the Canadian Rockies, then it's flat & straight!
We just drove all night from Portland OR to Penticton BC at 75-80MPH in our stock tired car. Most of my driving is in our car with 175/75-13 tires, which brings the RPM down about 200 RPM is my guess.
For anyone concerned about speedo calibration. Our all season 165/65-13 (Stock size) reads 4% OVER true speed on speedo. Our brand new studded winter 175/75-13's read 5% UNDER the actual speed as measured by GPS on flat prarie land.
When on roads with high speed limits I drive by tach, I don't thinik over 4,000RPM is cool for say 3 hours. We haul a modest load of gear, to a car full. we've got cameras, clothes, tripods, survival gear.
Soon will add light bush bumpers, skid plate, elephant rack, 2" body lift, completely re-engineered suspension with quick release sway bars, and removable 8,000lb winch. We have designed an elephant rack that dismantles quickly into bridges to cross Justy swallowing ruts. We expect to lose some real speed on this car when completed, but it's to be an adventure car to tow/drive from Alaska to Venezuela. Speed will not matter then.
Our initial shake-down trip will include Alaska, Yukon, NWT, Victoria BC, Newfoundland & Labrador, Florida Keys, Copper Canyon Mexico, San Diego then home to Penticton BC, over a 2 year period.
My wife's car (Flipper) will remain a stocker for high speed low cost commutes. My PJ (Puddle Jumper) will begin real transformation as soon as it gets warm again. We have owned several cars as "candidate vehicles" for our long term travel. We selected the Justy for weight size, power balance & fun. Used to own a rabbit convertable painted like a cow, but it wasn't 4*4.
Modified Justy will be towed behind our 1959 MCI MC-1 highway coach. In 2007 we begin our 2 year journey. The retrofit car & bus again for a permanent journey as far as Venezuela. We will drive the entire way except for the Darien Gap & Columbia.
Those of you that think you can go anywhere in your ride, read up on ther Darien gap, it makes for some cool reading.
This guy claims to be the first motorcycle thru http://www.motivation-tools.com/notes/darien_gap.htm.
Here is the first car to cross the Darien Gap. Another Land Rover made it thru earlier, but it was amphib and floated down rivers. http://www.geocities.com/~landroverpty/trans_darien_1970.htm Major John Blashford-Snell had up to 17 natives at a time muscle his truck thru. Many days they collapsed after 18 hours of struggle, and could hit with a rock where they slept yesterday. He said one day he hit the spot where they were THREE days ago!
People say that BICYCLES are your best bet for the Darien gap, personally we will take a cargo ship from Western Panama, thru the canal, to Venezuela.
We have some friends that just completed Patagonia to Alaska, NWT & Yukon in a Landcruiser, now off to Nova Scotia to catch a boat back to Germany, safe journey Didi & Astrid! I expect those gloves I gave you to ride across the Saraha soon, for your 13th time!
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We never run our engine hard like on acceleration, but trying to determine safe engine RPM for extended travel? (for fully rebuilt engines)
at 75MPH is runs around 4,000 RPM. I this OK? we're talking on a 9 hour drive, that I do return every week or 2 to see my wife & other Justy.
We change oil 2-3,000km, sometimes every 2 weeks. DAMN glad they're a no brainer and small capacity. We buy oil & filters by the case.
We need these cars to last 2-3 years b4 another rebuild, any recommendations on RPM?
They are AWD cars so we cant change the final drive ratio, or I would. The bigger tires brought RPM down a bit.
Any thoughs or experience on high RPM highway driving?
Thanks
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It probably has a clogged cat on it. I know a subaru rebuilder that quit doing Justy engines because customers would refuse to replace the catalyst and then blame the engine builder for premature failure.
Interesting idea. In the case should Subaru be checking cats upon rebuild? Had they brought it up and tied it to engine life, we would have replaced cat at same time. We repeatedly asked them for more stuff to fix, anything that would extend engine life. 15,ooo km lifespan is not too impressive, especially with half of those miles being towed behind our RV.
We are new to Subaru. Have no air care here, but are environmentally friendly. What to most subie owners do with cats? Replace, remove or punch them out to retain stock appearance? I figure that cats have their place, but a plugged cat I believe is a detriment to the enviromnent by making car run poor.
I just phoned the dealer in Kamloops BC that I LIKE, and am buying my fuiture parts from. He said a cat failure would first show up as poor performance. This car performed wery well for it's whoppin 73HP. Even with 175/7513's robbin my torque, yes I had to cut & bend but only small amounts.
Once I can figure out how to lift it properly I will still run 13's, but as big as they make em. I want tiny rims and big air for lower unsprung mass, and air for flotation.
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Sounds a little shady to me. I dont know about up North, but down here a subies a subie and any dealer can make warranty claims for you. At least thats my understanding. I had a friend who owned a 2.5rs that self destrcuted. He bought it in Illinois and then moved to Tennessee shortly after. The Tenn dealer had no problem making a claim for him. He got his new motor and the 2.5rs now has almost 300,000 miles on it..I would suggest calling the other dealers and letting them know whats up. They may be able to help you..
We have talked to another dealer, but this is not a new engine. This dealer said it sounded like we did everything we could to make this engine purr, and a machine shop problem is the job of the MECHANIC to not install it. Had this particular dealer done the original rebuild, they would be inside it right now.
It was parts & labor to completely rebuild everything. Their machine shop was part of holdup so we grabbed heads & crank & got rod resizing(2 thou, however you write that?), crank grind, head milling, valve grind & glass beading. I also asked 3 times for pistons but mechanic managed to cinvince me mine were perfect. It seems that our warranty is only with the Dealer who did the work.
I watched & photograph most of the teardown, all of the machine work at Paul's MAchine Shop in Oroville (very cool), and little of the assembly cause it had been a few weeks and tension was high. I am a stock photographer primarily for text books, and writing a series on this Justy conversion to world-ready adventure car.
I HIGHLY recommend Paul's in Oroville WA for ANY engine, the best tools very experienced, combined with an atmosphere where you can ask to come back & see your work in progress. They came Highly recommended to us by Lordco Parts in Penticton
Tire sizes for stock height Justy for light off-road
in Off Road
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3 cylinders? Sounds about right for me? That sucks for him though!
Electrical problems. Yet another reason why we buy old vehicles. I carry enough to wire arrrooouuunnddd wiring problems, then keep driving!
My wife & I made the mistake of buying an 86 Range Rover couple of years ago. After the second time it's computer said "tow me home to my mommy" (400km away), we sold it at a $7,000 loss (still paying) and decided to impose a 1 computer limit on all future vehicles.
I already have a spare computer for my Justy, and they're $25 on EBay! Our 1976 RV only has 1 ignition box & no computers. Our 1959 MCI MC-1 Motor Coach (Serial #560) was made before VIN numbers were mandatory and certainly before cars had computers. I think computers were bigger than my bus in 1959?
Our Detroit 4-71 supercharged engine (121HP) is so simple it can actually run backwards. I did it once accidentally and it was not pleasant, nor did it want to shut off.
I LOVE our bus wiring! There is a fat wire, often with a label to and from everything. If it meets another wire it's inside a junction box with both wires attatched to a screwed terminal. So obvious even I can follow it. Wiring style is identical to WWII bomber wiring. Our battery cables are #00 for 2 * 8D batteries. Bus weighs 24,000lbs and only has 4 cylinders. Why do cars need more than 3? ;-)