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About markjs

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    USMB is life!

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    Port Townsend, WA
  1. A bad MAF sensor can cause these EA82's to lose a lot of power, and you really notice it on hills, need to shift down to hold speed.
  2. I got an '84 GL, and I had one long ago too, but in both, I have noticed, while driving, and shifting down, after letting the clutch back out, some back and forth movement of the shifter lever, sometimes seems extreme to me. Now IDK much at all about how these engines and trannies are mounted, having never looked into it or dealt with it personally, but on my last little subie, it developed an accompanying "clunk" sound. I do most of my own work, but at the time I had a guy would do spoob for me cheap, and he had just done the clutch on that rig when the clunk started, so turned out there was a loose mounting bolt, prolly one he forgot to tighten, but anyway, that solved the clunking, but as I recall (if I truly do, as the last subie was years ago), but not the back and forth jerking movement of the shifter lever whenever the clutch went back in and maybe it was going a bit faster than is ideal for a downshift, or even under hard acceleration, say if I am trying to zip out into traffic cuz I don't wanna slow anyone down, but I wanna get into a busy roadway without waiting a week. Anyway, I suspect there is some flexibility in the tranny mountings, maybe rubber bushings or something that explains this, because far as I know it's not an actual "problem" it's just that 84, Subaru GL wagons, are the only cars I've really noticed this thing happening, or at least happening as severely as it is on my subies. I also figure, Subaru being a completely unique drivertrain setup, it's not so surprising if it is normal. Just hope I ain't gotta crawl under, cuz I hate any work that involves that.
  3. I have an '84 GL Wagon, no frills one belt, that runs both water pump and alteranator. Though I can find no misalignment with a straight edge, I have now broken two V-belts. The first one *may* have been too tight, but I used the 90 degree twist both times, and the first one lasted like 5 minutes, the second several hyndred miles. Thge second started squealing recently but I KNOW it was not too tight, if anything slightly too loose, any ideas as to why this is happening? It's really a huge flaw as it only has the one belt. There are two pulleys on the crankshaft, and I seem to remember my last '84GL having two bults that turned the water pump but don't recall for certain?
  4. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    Well I justt screwd up but not being clear in first post, but the second shouldhavew cleared the confusion some. Nobig, it happens, I appreciate the help. Gonna sit on it a while drive as it, hate getting under. Notr so much cuz it's big deal, it's not, don't even need to lift car to access, but it's the weatrher and mud at home that keeps me unenthusiastic lately, and lack of funds.
  5. So is the EA82 injection throttle body? I think if it's more trouble free and gives a similar boost as a Weber, that might be my preference, should be relatively easy find locally, ton of EA82 I see still dailyy drivers around here.... I hate timing belts period, but even so, that EA82 has to be a hell of a motor too, I have owned one, but had far less experience (crashed it quickly).
  6. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    OK, well I could not remember, the motorcycle ones never die, just two half cirle pieces of metal softer than the pipes and head, but not by any stretch truly "soft". On driving, after warm up, I have to amend my earlier judgment, but it's still not right and somewhat loud, but much better. Not right tho which bugs me, but easily fixable at payday and surviveavly until. I guess just being under choke and high rev at cold temp it's extra loud until full heat expansion....
  7. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    Oh and as for why not spend $3 on an exhaust studf? Maybe I can affor one tonight, but why, till payday, if a bolt does no good now? There is a deeper issue clearly.
  8. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    No, you read part of what I say, and interpret it before reading for comprehension. Sorry but it's necessary to read all of the two posts, not just skim through and start thinking it's me who is unclear, though admittedly I could have been clearer....
  9. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    Behind the cat is fixed with fiber fix, I'd swear I posted that? Sometimes people don't read past the gist?. Yes I am talking about on the head, but now it has a bolt has torque applied and is still just as loud, what gives? I'm thinkinking I might need to remove the bolt and nut and look inside, but the nut looks perma seized.... Is there a gasket in the head to exhaust? As I recall like a motorcycle, a simple one shouldn't ever wear out? Its been almost 15 years tho, since I toyed with an EA81 ewxhaust. That rotted the flare end of the head pipe, only fix I could afford at time was muffle goop and lots of support wirebut it worked..... But to be clear, my noise problem is 100% from the head on passenger's side. Fiber fix is amazing stuff, for now, we'll see for how long.
  10. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    OK now I am BAFFLED, (get it, baffled?), anyway.... I put a bolt and lock washer on, torqued it good, and no change in the exhaust! It's loud as ever. The cat and muffler not the issue, issue on passenger side head. There's a warm air pipe on that side leading to the air cleaner? Why? How can the exhaust, straight off the head go into the cold air intake and how can that pipe "y"out anjd bypasss the cat and muffler and how can it still be quiet? The heat hose is the flimsiest of foil and wire. Is there even a hole or is it just air warmed by the pipe? Is it possible that a hole rottred through? You feel a steady leak down there, but nothiong like a busted manifold gasket, not as strong but loud as hell, what gives?
  11. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    Honestly I'm thinking bolt, cuz it's just one, and cuz a stud is more money and I sunk spoob tons in it already and am tapped for a bit, plus just ease of sealing it up for a while till I can get down there and hget everything right. Just a temporary fix really, but may hold up to permanent (the life of the exhaust at least?)
  12. markjs

    Exhaust stud size?

    I used this stuff called "Fiber Fix" thinking as temporary for between the cat and muffler system, but I'll be damned if it don't look, feel and according to the auto store guy, is, solid enough to last quite some time. I have welders and can buy clamps later if need be, but IDK if I ever will....
  13. My exhaust on my '84 GL Wagon isin AMAZING good shape, just only seperated at back of cat and one stud dropped out, IDK form unscrewing and falling or stripping. What size is the stud and the hole and what pitch? Im figuring it for a diameter of 4-6mm, maybe 8 tops, and coarse pitch? I had another '84 GL once, nearly identical except only fwd, much worse shape, IIRC it lost more than one exhaust stud and I used bolts and lockwashers to replace them, which worked fine till the pipes themselves rusted through, and the lip at the top opf the pipe where it goes into manifold no longer held the pipe to the mount. Any reason not to go with a bolt and lockwasher?
  14. I've been wondering about my voltage guage ever since shortly after I got this car ('84 GL Wagon). The alternator puts out a steady 14 (13.99 at lowest) and stays steady revved or not, so I am hoping the alternator is OK, and no battery dying issues (read 12.6 last) I looked, so I hope it is too. Thing is, if the battery drains at all, that needle goes off or runs around 8v normally. IT was over 12v most of the time when I first started driving the car and it got up there again and stayed for a while, now it's back to showing 8, normally. Any idea? I'm thinking it may be shitty grounding to the dash, or somewhere in the circuit, but the other guages vgve me no real troubles.
  15. I love my "new-old" GL, but the one and only flaw is it's underpowered. I'm not talking a lot, but if I could just get a small gain at low RPM in higher gears it might be worth it. I'm considering the Weber and plan to do a junkyard tour soon, but cost on that is an issue as I am of extremely limited means. I did read about an interesting mod to the Hitachi two barrel (which my car has), where the secondary vaccum diaphram is disabled and a wire lever is attached to make the secondaries open sooner. He mentioned it giving a flat spot somewhere low in the RPM< which is not what I want, but I'm sure that was because of restricted airflow, he did not mention if he was using the stock airbox or not, that I recall. If anyone knows anything about this mod, I'm very interested? I guess there's also the issue of not having power steering, but I consider that a luxury not a flaw. Did the 84 GL even have power steering as an option? If so, how hard is the conversion? So yeah, let's have some fun with ideas, and even "it will never work...." cuz I know a whole lot isn't possible on the cheap, but well, that's what we do here isn't it? Thanks, happy Subaruing