bergman05

I have a math degree, and have reviewed all of the charts (but not the tables). The only downside of the Delco is that at increased air volumes, it is more restrictive. For standard moderate acceleration curves, this would matter very little, if any. The data tells me that Purolator and Wix are the winners. Yes, the charts are biased against K&N in the way that the vertical axis often does not start at zero. To read the charts correctly, ignore the height of the bars, and just focus on the numbers. thanks for posting the URL to this study!

non-turbo. thanks josh. Glad to hear it's typical operation... mark

any thoughts about clean oil being sucked thru the PCV valve? Doesn't seem normal. The reason I even inspected the PCV valve in the 1st place was that the oil was particularly dirty after running this oil for 3000 miles (I was changing the oil for the 2nd time since new), and I suspected that the PCV might not be doing its job. Is it possible that the crank is throwing oil in the vicinity of where the PCV vacuum is sucking on the case? (the oil level in the crankcase is not overfilled). The dealer tech did show me (on a disassembled motor) how the chamber in the crankcase that the air gets sucked thru, has 2 horizontal baffles that the air must be drawn past, to get to the PCV valve. I can't imagine how clean oil is getting drawn thru this chamber, unless the vacuum is way too extreme. The tech did note that subaru recently moved the PCV valve to sit directly atop the crankcase on these 2.5 engines. The service manager took a look at the PCV valve (it appeared to be topped off with clean oil); I suspect that this oil is probably suspended in the vertical rubber vacuum hose during operation, and then returns to fill the top of the PCV valve at rest); he said it shouldn't be a problem. Just seems odd to me.

thanks for the advice; the car otherwise starts on a dime, even during our recent cold snap here in northcentral WI. It seems that temps just above freezing have plagued it the most.

Is the engine temp sensor monitoring the coolant temp? The dealer did verify that the coolant temp sensor was giving an accurate reading. I suspected the ambient air temp sensor, but apparently that checked out OK as well, I believe.

I believe it was around 30 to 40 degs F, when the problem 1st reared its head; I change my own oil. I changed the oil at 900 miles, using castrol 5w30; then changed to Mobil 1 5w30 at around 4K, but then went back to castrol 800 miles later, when the subaru tech told me my engine wouldn't be fully broken in until 15K. I'll keep the fuel level tip in mind - thanks! I always try to follow that rule in the coolest 6 months of the year, but I can't say that I noted the fuel tank level when I've had the problem.

My wife: "that car sucks... I'll never drive it again!". Our first Subaru. First new car in 26 yrs-purchased for the wife-now she refuses to drive it, as she's afraid she'll be stranded. Dealer has checked it out 2 or 3x, but cannot find a problem (no codes have been triggered). Dealer says until a code is triggered, there's nothing they can do. Problem: once in a while, always on a cold start (we purchased in May, and problem began this Fall when it turned cool and humid), the engine refuses to start, even after the starter runs for nearly 10 seconds. According to the owner's manual, the protocol is to then try it with the gas pedal held 1/4 way down; if still no go, then try it again (after 15 seconds) with the pedal floored; if still no go, try it a 3rd time leaving the pedal alone. Check engine light has never come on. Each time it has acted up on me, it will start immediately if I hold the pedal down 1/4 of the way. Recently, however, I had to hold it to the floor to get it to start, and I didn't really like the popping noise it made when it did start (like a stuffed-up tube that finally got cleared of whatever was plugging it up). 8K on the car. ANYBODY ELSE EXPERIENCING THIS? Dealer advice: When asked how long I am letting the starter run, I tell him I usually back off the key after 5-8 seconds, as it seems obvious that it ain't gonna fire. Service manager tells me I can/should hold the key for up to 30 seconds, and this won't hurt the starter motor (owner's manual has a caution to run the starter for no more than 10 seconds at a time). He says it may take 10 seconds or so to build up fuel pressure.

well the 04 and 05 outback (not sure about the Forester) requires a T70 internal torx bit to remove the front diff. drain plug; some say Subaru decided to mess with us Saturday mechanics; some say they went with the Torx head to prevent Joe Schmoe at jiffylube from draining the diff. instead of the engine oil; why they didn't go with a T60 that I can get for $8 at my local autoparts store is the mystery; a T70 is only available at toolsource.com for $29.50 + ship; or as part of an impact torx set on ebay for $60+++. The T70 is made in germany by stahlwille, and in england by draper. gutes gluck!

The plug is a T70 INTERNAL torx. U can buy one from toolsource website for 29.50 + shipping (mfg = Stahlwille); or u can purchase from shopcreator.com (UK site) - buy 2 sockets for less than $6 each, but will cost $12 to ship them from England- $24 total; or u can go to awrtools.com and buy a 17 piece impact set [including the T70] for $47.95 + shipping, which is the route I plan to take. This same impact set is available on ebay for $60 and upwards. toolsource is gouging us since they know we can't get it anywhere else.

Thanks Josh. I had bought a sizeable tube of friction modifier, and directions said to squeeze the entire tube into the diff. unit; i was racking my brain as to how much of the tube to actually use, considering that my rear diff. capacity is only 0.8 qts. It's great news to know that I need not bother at all! Speaking of diffs, my front unit appears to have a drain plug that will require a T-70 Torx bit - is this for real? The only T-70 that i've been able to locate on the web so far are sold in Great Britain. Any guidance?

\ 05 Outback wagon with auto trans: No center diff.; however, my rear is an LSD. Is the LS portion of my rear diff. likewise a separate sealed unit? (and is that to say it is self-contained in the diff. itself?)

This inverted square differential plug is an odd duck, to say the least. The square is not 13 mm; however, it is not quite 14 mm either. I asked NAPA about the above tool, with no luck. I find it hard to believe that Subaru would make the square larger than 13 mm, but that is what they have done - very puzzling. SOLUTION: For $2.30 I purchased a 2" length of 1/2" "keystock" (square metal bar) at my hardware store. I then cut a small rectangle of aluminum off of some roofing aluminum. I bent the piece to wrap all the way around the square bar so that it overlaps on just one side. The "built-up" bar (approx 13.5 mm) will now slide nicely into a 5/8" socket [the socket helps hold the aluminum sheeting square to the bar as well], and most important will now snug into the plug without any annoying slop! Of course, my exhaust pipe on my 05 outback blocks the use of the socket for the drain plug. So unless you can garner enough leverage out of a 1/2" open end placed on the bar itself (striking the box end with a sizeable rubber mallet), you will have to resort to a 1/2" crowfoot to be able to use your breaker bar. Trying to figure the torque for tightening them is a PITA. I took a Stanley blade and made some matchmarks on the plugs and case, and plan to simply tighten them back to the factory position. Q#1: Does the service manual call for some threadlock or the like on these plugs? Q#2: Is it a good idea to put friction modifier lube into my rear diff when I change it out, if my diff is limited slip? I have an auto trans. Thanks.........