turbo92subaru
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Posts posted by turbo92subaru
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Im not to sure which wires to check, there are plenty of wires under there. If possible a pic would be awsome.Are the two green wires connected?This being an OBDI car, all you have to do is plug two wires under the dash together, depending on what diagnostic you want to perform. Black wires is U-check mode, where you just turn the ignition switch to On and the CEL will flash the code at you. Green wires is D-check mode, where you drive the car around, and the ECU does an active diagnostic, checking for any codes that might be happening then. Either one works fine, I always do D-check.
But if it is in either of these two modes, the CEL will flash either the code at you, or flash steadily to say there are no codes. The CEL will continue to flash until the wires are disconnected.
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What kind of noise are you hearing and when?
BTW, you may want to start a new thread to discuss this as it may involve other suspension components as well/instead.
like when takeing off and slowing down and more when going over a curb. Its a loud noise as if steel was rubbing against steel. A loud deep sound (clunk) I already have a couple. (Struts, swaybar links)
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just a question, when the balljoints were bad did they make any noise, like when takeing off and slowing down and more when going over a curb or something. I just baught balljoints today and am replacing cause the rubber boot is ripped. Any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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ya the nut in the middle. It will loosen but wont tighten. I think its as tight as it will go.
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I noticed a stamp on the struts for L, and R but there was no difference in the struts. But I am going to check it out tonight. (opefully) the noise is driving me nuts.
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A blinking CEL means the problem is currently happening. A steady CEL means a problem was detected and noted. That's for OBD2...not sure if it's the same for OBD1. What sensor was the offender? A little more info on vehicle...year, model, miles, etc...
Its a 92 Legacy with turbo. 220,000kms. No codes appear when plugged into the comp. Just replaced the 02 sensor knock sensor and airflow meter. Which caused the previously steady cel to turn off. then 5 min later started blinking, but no codes came up when checked.
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I had my check engine light on for awhile, I replaced the sencors that were bad then took it back to see if there were anyother codes. No codes came up but the light was still on, they tried to erase the codes, and of course drove down the road three kms or so and the light came back on, took the car back and the tried clearing them again. They couldn't get them to clear so now I have a blinking check engine light. The mechanic said it could be a wiring problem. Any ideas?
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The bolt a the top of the strut is really tight. Not stripped. (yet anyways) lol The bolt wont move, it just moves the strut insted. just twist the strut a little wee bit. I am going to take the strut out again and see if it is seated correctly. Thanks for your help:)oops!Well you either stripped the pressed in bolt, or it's not seated correctly. You might want to pop off that whole strut assembly and check out the bottom of that strut mount.
Torque's also depend on the brand... i bought some kyb struts last summer, and i broke one of the bolts, because i went by the subaru book instead of reading the paperwork that came w/ the struts. I think, don't quote me on this, but i think it was something like 43ft-lbs..
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When I try to torque it or see if it is tight the strut just twist.Any easy way to check to see if the strut is tight? -
What might happen if you put the right strut on the left hand side.
(Lots of rattling)? especilly when going over curbs.?
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I removed both of my sway bar links thinking that was the noise cause I have one of the links that is worn and was rubbing against my tie rod end. But I am now still getting the noise, I am starting to maybe think when I replaced my struts I put the left on the right hand side and the right on the left hand side, But I am pretty sure I did not make that mistake. I also have a ripped boot on my balljoint and maybe it lacking lubrication. Its a loud clunk when I step on the gas or turn corners. Doesn't necessarily make the clunk noise when going over bumps or anything. I hate these kind of problems. Its like a procces of elimination.
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Any easy way to check to see if the strut is tight?
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I took out the one stabilizer link and noticed the busings in the link were both slanted sideways and the rubber was worn out. So now I have 1 link in. lol. But no noise. Hopefully when i go to the dealorship on mon. they will have the part in stock. But I still have a noise that sounds like the front strut. I just put new ones in, so maybe it could be the other link making noise cause the other side is out. It only makes the noise on the side where the link is in.
Haven't noticed any change in the performance yet, but I also haven't been doing any hard cornering. Dont plan
on it untill the new links are in. lol:)
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I had the same problem with my legacy. When I replaced my struts I also replaced the strut mounts. The bearing in the strut mount will make noise when turning hard left, if that is the one worn. From a stand still, when you crank your wheel all the way to the left does it make noise. Like a grinding noise. If so bearings in the strut mount could need to be replaced.I am getting a front end noise when starting from a dead stop at a light or stop sign. It seems to only be happening when the cars wheels are pointed straight. The noise is getting slightly worse as time goes on. It sounds like 2 things rubbing or a part very worn down. I was wondering if it could be shocks, but i think it is something in the steering or tie end rods. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks
Ben
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I took out the one stabilizer link and noticed the busings in the link were both slanted sideways and the rubber was worn out. So now I have 1 link in. lol. But no noise. Hopefully when i go to the dealorship on mon. they will have the part in stock. But I still have a noise that sounds like the front strut. I just put new ones in, so maybe it could be the other link making noise cause the other side is out. It only makes the noise on the side where the link is in.
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Actually.....you really shouldn't drive without a front sway bar....
If you do, you need to be extremely careful.
Whats the worst that could happen without it? Will it damage anything else, I dont plan on taking hard corners or high speeds, Just driving in town a little. I think it is the stabilzer link but not sure, When i look under the car the left side link stands straight up, and the right side leans toward the front of the car, when ever I turn or go over a curd or anything it makes a loud clunk noise. (rubbing against my tie rod) With the link being like that would that be the problem. Or could the bushings also cause that problem.
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You will be fine.
Great thanks for the input. I will just take it easy untill I find a new sway bar link.
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Your steering will feel soggy, and the back of the car will tend to slide. Especially if you close the throttle or brake in a bend. BE CAREFUL!
Great thanks for the input. Just wasn't sure if it would hurt any other steering components with the sway bar missing.
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Just wanted to know if it was necassary to have a front sway bar. (Just temporarily.) I think its my stablilizer link that is causing the proble. The link on the left side is rubbing against my tie rod end and is making a loud noise. Just wanted to know if it would hurt anything to go without it for a couple of days.
strut?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Well everything whent together good. Im starting to think that the top of the coilspring isn't alined properly with the to of the strut plate.