
yewman
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About yewman
- Birthday 04/27/1950
Profile Information
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Location
lincolnshire uk
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Vehicles
1999 legacy estate
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After Diagnosing the Check engine light as the front sensor, I heated up the exhaust and tried carefully to remove the sensor by working the threads back and forward. It still came out with the threads stripped. I read somewhere that all Oxygen sensor threads are Aluminium. Is that correct? The threads in the exhaust box don't seem too bad, so I need to know what the thread is to buy a thread chaser. Tool shops only seem to be selling 18mm X1.5 or 12mm chasers. Measuring an undamaged part of the sensor thread where the washer had been, gave about 17.4mm across the threads. What is the correct size to buy please.
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OK, I am told all UK cars are fitted with an alarm Keypad, it's just that neither the Subaru operators manual nor the one for the alarm system tells you where it is. Sneaky. It is fitted inside the interior fuse box cover. The keypad is no help with this problem however, as the system arms and disarms normally with the key. I also now know that the 30 seconds allowed to start the car after entering, and disarming the system is part of the system and cast in stone.
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I have an immobiliser related starting problem on my 2005 legacy estate. If you press the key button , the doors unlock as normal. Get in, within 30 seconds, and turn the key, all the indicator lights come on, but the starter doesn't energise. Press the button on the key, after 30 seconds, still nothing. If you unlock the car, spend 10 minutes loading up, then get in, turn the key and press the button, it starts first time as it should. There is nothing wrong with the starter, by the way. A couple of times, I have opened the drivers door after not being able to start the engine, then pressed the button, and the engine started. According to the operators handbook, which leaves a lot to be desired as it covers too many variants, there should be a keypad inside the car to enter a code if the alarm system goes wrong. I can't find a keypad on my car. I wonder if it is possible to alter the system to allow the engine to start anytime after entering the car. The 30 second rule is a waste of time . can't see the point of it. I realise that Subaru's have a different spec Stateside, but I hope that someone can help with this . Thanks
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In the UK, autoparts stores don't keep plastic fittings,they have oils, filters, wiper blades, and hundreds of different ear splitting audio systems.. Now I know how the plugs work, it won't be a problem. As I said, a plastic wall plug , small screw and washer does the job on the one I broke.. If you are servicing the Lexus yourself, do you need to put the engine cover back? Unless it directs airflow for cooling.
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I haven't had this Legacy for long and looking at the operators manual, this cover has to come off to replace the rear bulbs. It says unscrew the clips. The clips on my car are a clever design which doesn't work. The middle part of the clip with the cross head slot is supposed to be turned a quarter turn counter clock wise and the part separates from the body, as shown in the photo, and then be grabbed and pulled out. There is no thread, just 4 steps behind the head. What actually happens is the whole clip rotates. I broke the first clip, and have replaced it with a plastic wall plug and a small screw. Seems stupid to me, a screwed clip is much easier.
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The bottom bolt for the rear gate RH strut is loose, and needs re tightening. I also like to grease the ball joints and upper mountings too. An easy job on my old 1999 Legacy, but on this one there is a plastic panel obscuring the bottom bolt. The manual says remove the clips to take the panel off. These clips have a crosshead recess like a screw, but they are not screwed in . Any idea how to get the clips off without destroying them. Even if we had a Subaru dealer nearby, they wouldn't keep clips. A copy of the manual page shows the clips upper right
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Thought it might be of interest, but after re tightening the new axle nut a couple of times, the small amount of "bearing" play returned. Finally decided to have the hub bearings replaced for safety's sake. When the mechanic stripped the hub, he found that the wheel hub, where the inner race of the outer bearing sits had worn away. This was causing the play at the road wheel. The bearings were ok, which is why there was never any noise associated with the problem. .Obviously new bearings were fitted as the car had 180K miles on the clock.
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Thanks for all the useful info. I am 100% sure it is neither the plug or the plug wire. I have swapped the wires from cylinders which do fire, and the fault is still there. Also the old fashioned strobe light which we used to use to set the ignition timing accurately on cars with mechanical distributors actually replace the plug wire completely when installed, and there is no light, so no spark. The reason I thought it was not the coil pack is that the resistance between pairs of coil / secondary terminals is the same on both sides of the pack. Sadly, the local scrappers have no Subarus. Probably a testament to their superior reliability even when old. I am hoping for a cheap fix as i have just bought another Subaru Legacy with a lot less miles and don't want to sell the car I have had great service from for spares. Thanks Toonga for the cheap coil on Ebay.When i searched for Legacy coils, the cheapest was £30 . All the best for Christmas to all you Subaru people Yewman