yewman

Thanks a lot Mike, The European link is the one for me. My Legacy is a 2.0i, which is not available in the States. Yours start at the 2.5i. Paul

Thanks for that information. The legacies seem to have different sensors according to the model. Is there a parts list somewhere to check the part number for a 2005 2.0i EJ202 engine?

After Diagnosing the Check engine light as the front sensor, I heated up the exhaust and tried carefully to remove the sensor by working the threads back and forward. It still came out with the threads stripped. I read somewhere that all Oxygen sensor threads are Aluminium. Is that correct? The threads in the exhaust box don't seem too bad, so I need to know what the thread is to buy a thread chaser. Tool shops only seem to be selling 18mm X1.5 or 12mm chasers. Measuring an undamaged part of the sensor thread where the washer had been, gave about 17.4mm across the threads. What is the correct size to buy please.

OK, I am told all UK cars are fitted with an alarm Keypad, it's just that neither the Subaru operators manual nor the one for the alarm system tells you where it is. Sneaky. It is fitted inside the interior fuse box cover. The keypad is no help with this problem however, as the system arms and disarms normally with the key. I also now know that the 30 seconds allowed to start the car after entering, and disarming the system is part of the system and cast in stone.

I have an immobiliser related starting problem on my 2005 legacy estate. If you press the key button , the doors unlock as normal. Get in, within 30 seconds, and turn the key, all the indicator lights come on, but the starter doesn't energise. Press the button on the key, after 30 seconds, still nothing. If you unlock the car, spend 10 minutes loading up, then get in, turn the key and press the button, it starts first time as it should. There is nothing wrong with the starter, by the way. A couple of times, I have opened the drivers door after not being able to start the engine, then pressed the button, and the engine started. According to the operators handbook, which leaves a lot to be desired as it covers too many variants, there should be a keypad inside the car to enter a code if the alarm system goes wrong. I can't find a keypad on my car. I wonder if it is possible to alter the system to allow the engine to start anytime after entering the car. The 30 second rule is a waste of time . can't see the point of it. I realise that Subaru's have a different spec Stateside, but I hope that someone can help with this . Thanks

In the UK, autoparts stores don't keep plastic fittings,they have oils, filters, wiper blades, and hundreds of different ear splitting audio systems.. Now I know how the plugs work, it won't be a problem. As I said, a plastic wall plug , small screw and washer does the job on the one I broke.. If you are servicing the Lexus yourself, do you need to put the engine cover back? Unless it directs airflow for cooling.

I haven't had this Legacy for long and looking at the operators manual, this cover has to come off to replace the rear bulbs. It says unscrew the clips. The clips on my car are a clever design which doesn't work. The middle part of the clip with the cross head slot is supposed to be turned a quarter turn counter clock wise and the part separates from the body, as shown in the photo, and then be grabbed and pulled out. There is no thread, just 4 steps behind the head. What actually happens is the whole clip rotates. I broke the first clip, and have replaced it with a plastic wall plug and a small screw. Seems stupid to me, a screwed clip is much easier.

I thought brute force might be the answer. with all the technical improvements to cars over the years.plastic trim clips are still a nightmare. Thanks Yewman

The bottom bolt for the rear gate RH strut is loose, and needs re tightening. I also like to grease the ball joints and upper mountings too. An easy job on my old 1999 Legacy, but on this one there is a plastic panel obscuring the bottom bolt. The manual says remove the clips to take the panel off. These clips have a crosshead recess like a screw, but they are not screwed in . Any idea how to get the clips off without destroying them. Even if we had a Subaru dealer nearby, they wouldn't keep clips. A copy of the manual page shows the clips upper right

Thought it might be of interest, but after re tightening the new axle nut a couple of times, the small amount of "bearing" play returned. Finally decided to have the hub bearings replaced for safety's sake. When the mechanic stripped the hub, he found that the wheel hub, where the inner race of the outer bearing sits had worn away. This was causing the play at the road wheel. The bearings were ok, which is why there was never any noise associated with the problem. .Obviously new bearings were fitted as the car had 180K miles on the clock.

I have now fitted another coil pack obtained from a breakers yard. Problem solved, engine back on all 4 cylinders. The original 4 plug leads/ wires are still fitted As Gloyale said , 3 out of 4 sparks is possible from a faulty pack. Thanks Yewman

Have checked it all out again, and now I know that each half of the coil pack fires 2 cylinders, sparks on 3 cylinders means faulty coil pack. Have one on order. Fault finding abandoned for the day. Ready for the log fire now.

I agree with Olnick about the solenoid. Also worth checking all the leads going to solenoid and starter are tight.

Thanks for all the useful info. I am 100% sure it is neither the plug or the plug wire. I have swapped the wires from cylinders which do fire, and the fault is still there. Also the old fashioned strobe light which we used to use to set the ignition timing accurately on cars with mechanical distributors actually replace the plug wire completely when installed, and there is no light, so no spark. The reason I thought it was not the coil pack is that the resistance between pairs of coil / secondary terminals is the same on both sides of the pack. Sadly, the local scrappers have no Subarus. Probably a testament to their superior reliability even when old. I am hoping for a cheap fix as i have just bought another Subaru Legacy with a lot less miles and don't want to sell the car I have had great service from for spares. Thanks Toonga for the cheap coil on Ebay.When i searched for Legacy coils, the cheapest was £30 . All the best for Christmas to all you Subaru people Yewman

The wires are fine. The plugs are new NGK. This coil pack fires all 4 plugs. As I said, there is no spark coming from the coil pack on one cylinder only.. I checked this by fitting a strobe light which lights up every time the plug fires. What about these ignitors, how do I find them? Thanks

My 1999 Legacy 2 litre started running rough. I fitted new plugs and swapped plug leads with no improvement. I then connected an old strobe light between coil pack and plugs, and found one cylinder had no spark. I assume that the coil pack is faulty., but can I check it out with a meter before spending loads on a new pack. I have read various posts talking about ignitors.I have no idea where these parts are, or how to check them. UK legacy's have on board diagnosis, and all this shows is fault code 12, ignition circuit. Thanks

I did wonder what "not accurate meant". A drive shaft specialist firm is selling the nuts with 2 year warranty and the correct 32 mm AF size. Job Done Thanks for help

Finally got round to looking at the front bearing play. As suggested by Fairtax, I unstaked the axle nut, and started to re torque. The nut moved very slightly after 100 ft lbs. Result, no more play in the bearings. I have run the car for a week, and it's ok. Now I need to fit a new nut , as the ring of metal for staking is mangled. We don't have a Subaru Dealer round here any more, so I was thinking of buying one off the internet with 2 year warranty, I read on another forum, that chinese Auto Zone nuts "are not accurate".. I don't think the one i have seen are Autozone anyway, but anybody had bad experience with non genuine nuts?

Good reply from Fairtax. May seem obvious, but do you always get fuel from the same place?

Taper roller bearings can wear without needing to be replaced, unlike ball races. Most UK cars in the 60's and 70's had adjustable front wheel bearings., just a castle nut and split pin to hold it all together .We used to unscrew the nut , re-grease the bearings and adjust up again. My previous Legacy's all needed rear wheel bearings, and as you say, the noise was the first indication of a problem. I am sure the play is in the bearings, The lower ball joint etc are all OK. Now I know the correct torque for the nut, i'll check it out Thanks for all the info

I have a 1999 Legacy with a bit too much free play in the front hub bearings. There is no noise from the bearings, and I was hoping to avoid replacement. I can't find a cross section drawing of the knuckle/hub/ drive shaft set up which would help. I know the outer shell of the bearings is one piece, but is there a spacer between the bearing inner cones which could be reduced in size to take up the free play?

My trusty old 1999 2 litre Legacy Estate (Wagon ) is possibly due for another engine timing belt change. There seems to be a lot of chat on other forums about the correct interval. My owners manual states 60K miles, but the figure of 105K miles seems to be talked about. Any comments on this? If the car does need a new belt,I have never done one on a Subaru. I assume you can do this with the engine in the car if you take the radiator and fans out first.?? Any advice would be very welcome. Cheers Yewman

Hello Rooster, The new parts were KYB Excel g. I am in the UK, but have seen ads for USA. Price varies a lot for the same item. It pays to shop around. Mine eventually came off Ebay, after a bit of searching elsewhere. Cheers Yewman

Just finished fitting the new shock. Both old and new had a closed bracket for the hose to pass through. The procedure described by Gloyale was used to fit the new unit. I have the service history for this car before I owned it, and I think I have just replaced the original shock absorber. Not bad after 175,000 miles. Tyre wear was perfectly even accross the tread , no signs of patchy wear, associated with worn shocks. It leaked, so it was replaced. Thanks for your help guys. Regards Yewman