yewman

Looking at the photo of the disc and drum, it seems that it will just slide off after removing the rear wheel. Time to have a look at the job in the metal . Thanks for the useful info , Regards Yewman

My Legacy estate (wagon) has discs all round. The handbrake is not as effective as it was, unless you pull hard on the lever. I need to have a look & give it some T. L.C., Is it a drum inside the disc?? if so are there any pics showing the setup. Thanks a lot to all you moderators who give up your time to help the rest of us. Regards Yewman......

Thanks for the info Josh Regards Yewman

Hello folks, Here's an easy one for the technical wizards. The reverse lights on my 1999 legacy estate (wagon ) only work if you fiddle with the gearstick ! Can you tell me where the switch is, the easiest way to get to it, and is it adjustable. Regards Yewman.

Someone here in the uk is selling "ametech Engine Restore Oil " at £40 ($70 ) a go. There are all sorts of claims about restoring worn engines back to standard and other impossible stuff . It sounds like a U.S. product .. Has anyone checked it out?? At that price it would have to be good . What's the miracle oil about? Regards Yewman.

I had a legacy 2 litre estate(wagon) for 5 years and the check engine light came on every time you backed off the throttle and the engine was braking , like going down hill .When the engine speed dropped to idle, it went off again. Never did find out why, but there wasn't any obvious problem, it passed its emissions check each year. Might be worth checking the electrical connectors on the engine to see if anything is loose. Regards Yewman

thanks for that post, I had a listen to my knock/rattle the other morning, using a long screwdriver.KEEP WELL CLEAR OF THE IGNITION LEADS. Starting on the cambox covers I could hear the valve gear tapping away happily. Moving further inboard across the heads the noise began to sound like a hammer on an anvil , on the lhs only. Conclusion the noise is piston slap, and I hope your experts are right to leave it alone. Regards Yewman.........

Thanks for that info guys, I do a lot of short trips so perhaps the ngk "5" plugs would be best I know the two plug types in the manual were different makes . Wonder why they specified ngk for one application and champion for another , unless it was an error in translation or typescript. Even now, they could do with hiring a good proof reader before they publish. Regards yewman.........

I have a 1999 legacy with EJ20E 2 litre engine. In one part of the operators handbook it quotes BKR6E plugs for cars with CAT, and RC10YC4 without CAT.In another part of the manual it says the opposite. Which is right ? Also it gives the gap 39-43 thou inch with CAT and 28-31 thou without. Is this correct? My car has a CAT & the previous owner had them set at 31 thou Regards Yewman.....

Some engines have hydraulic tappets which are non adjustable, if faulty, then replace. Not an easy job. Others like my legacy 2 litre have good old fashioned adjustable cam rockers. To check, remove the cambox cover from the side where the noise is coming from. Look at the rockers operating on the camshaft ,If you can see screws and locknuts, then all you need is simple tools and a set of feeler gauges and something to cure the backache you will get bending over the engine. hope you understand my uk terms Regards Yewman

I have bought some S.T.P. oil additive which I will put in when oil is changed soon. Will report results. yewman

I was going to post a similar question about the rattling noise which disappears when the engine is warmed through, about 7 miles driving. If it is piston slap, which seems likely as worn bearings would get louder under severe load ,has anyone had any success with thicker engine oil (as per the operators handbook for operating under arduous conditions -- say 20/40 or even the old standby 20w 50. How about an additive like S.T.P.?? regards Yewman.

Thanks for the gen.I have just made a rough check with a plumbline and it seems I have about 2 degrees neg.I will go back to mechanic and get an accurate reading. The info from Subaru says rear camber is not adjustable,there must be damage if it is wrong . There isn't any damage , so the only answer I can come up with is that the new shocks I fitted were not to spec.The brackets welded to the base of the strut dictate the wheel camber.If the centre distance between the strut and the two holes which bolt it to the wheel housing was too short,hey presto too much neg camber. New shocks from the dealer will cost a fortune, unless I could persuade them to measure a new one to compare those fitted to the car regards Yewman..

I had exactly the same problem on my 1997 Legacy .The engine was taken out twice and new crank seals fitted.I still get the smell of burning oil when I stop after a run.,but I need to change the front crank seal. To check if you have cured the leak from the front end. wrap a cloth allround the front cambelt housing (the plastic box), taking care to keep it clear of the fan etc. The top covers on the cylinder head also leak-could try making a gasket,rather than relying on sealant Cheers Yewman

I have been checking out Endwrench.com, a website with good subaru workshop info including pics. Although you have to pay to obtain some info, quite alot is free .The archive bulletins on suspension and wheel alignment are superb. The info on rear suspension indicates that the rear camber is not adjustable. Do you know what the camber spec is for my 1997 AWD Legacy Estate (Wagon)? Providing you donT lift off sharply in a fast corner, swing axles are ok, much of the bad press was generated by the press not the owners !!!! Cheers Yewman

Thanks to all who have replied to my message. I will try to answer all the points you raised. The tyre balance is good, with no vibration. The tyre which is now edge worn was new 12 months ago, but the previous tyre wore the same (but maybe not as quickly). Front toe in is good and the tyre wear is very even . Thanks Setright- I'll try the string test. I agree that somehow the tyre is scrubbing.I used to drive Triumph Spitfires, whose rear suspension went from pos to neg cam all the time as you were driving, but I will check the camber again. The parts I have fitted were needed anyway ,over a period of time to pass the UK annual roadworthiness test( MOT). It,s just that everytime I changed something I thought I had cured the problem!!! cheers, Yewman.

The inner edge(20%) of the LH rear tyre has worn down in about 3,000 miles. The worn part of the tyre is feathered (uneven) . I have tried the following to try to cure the fault. There is no accident damage & the rims run true. Diff works ok, viscous coupling appears ok. Rear wheel bearings changed.Brake shoes changed and brakes don't grab or bind. Anti roll bar rubber links changed. The shocks were changed and do appear stiff.But for an esate (wagon) carrying loads, this would seem to be good. The rear wheel Toe in has been checked by two different mechanics.One with laser gear & the other mechanical . There are no worn rubber suspension bushes either. Scratch your heads please 'cos I have run out of ideas The car is a 1997 Legacy estate( wagon ) with 130,000 miles on the clock regards Yewman