Skip
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Posts posted by Skip
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But how would a bad diode do this? I know diodes to just die completely.
Phiz, as you know a diode is a one way street for electrons
a "check valve "in H20 parlance.
When bad...
They can turn into an open circuit thus allowing no passage of current
but
they can also turn into a two way street allowing current in both directions.
This is probably what happened to the regulator in the bad alt.
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Hi Jesse,
by chance did you look through this post on the same subject?
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93745&highlight=weber
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check the second fusible link
it has a black with white tracer wire
the fusible link needs to be tested with a multimeter
they are located behind the battery in a small black box
mounted on the washer bottle.
This link is used to power the headlamps,
both sides.
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Thanks Mick,that would explain it for sure.
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I forgot to add
to read the codes the
ignition switch must be in the run position
withOUT the engine running.
Hope this helps.
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Welcome to the USMB Drew
To read the codes you must lower the panel that is above
your knees when driving.
Located up beside the steering col. is the ECU.
On the end facing you is a small hole
In this hole is an LED which is called the 02 moniotr.
The ECU looks like this
This LED will flash the stored codes when you plug
together the two white connectors located under the hood
by the driver's side hood hinge.
For what the codes are
Read here.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
With respect to your head light problem
IF you do not have high beams!
This car uses two separate systems for the left and right
headlamps.
For both to be out you need a common to both systems.
This common could be the
a) headlamp switch
the grounding point of the head lampsThis ground is located behind the coil on the inner fender.
Note please, the headlamps are NOT wired as they are
on American made cars.
They are wired with a switched ground.
The lamps you want to light (high or low beams)
are controlled by switch the ground to the lamp
NOT the hot as in domestic cars.
Here is the headlight diagram if it helps?
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are you positive you are addressing the
fuel injection coolant thermosensor
and not
the coolant sensor for the dash gauge?
You could test the resistance of the sensor
if you remove it and use some heated water.
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With a fuel cut defender and extra injector I run 15 PSI
not real eff. at that level but she runs strong
EGT unknown
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Jonathan - look at the main page for the forum you
want to put a theard in
On the left side a few lines down will be a symbol
that says "New Thread"
Click that.
I have never heard of this many grounds causing a problem
but Subiemech was right when he ask if your
cleaned ALL the gounds that you said you had.
"Ground issue? I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay."
Guess you have been so busy cleaning ground you didn't bother
checking for spark at the plug.
Good luck sir, you'll get it.
Keep on cleaning grounds.
I wonder if the FI coolant temp sensor has a ground?
Maybe you should clean it??
This sound related to a Fuel injection coolant temp sensor.
Remeber I ain't no subiemech
" When it was running, it got harder to start as the temps dropped... cranked and cranked before finally firing"
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For being a "Subie mech" he sure knows how to confuse people.
There is no reason your ignition timing is off unless
you removed/moved the distributor.
Which I do not believe you mentioned doing.
You cleaned the appropriote grounds.
The test connectors you mention are correct.
When setting or adjusting the ignition timing
the green connectors must be connected.
You need a timing light to set this.
IF you have changed it.
IF not ignor this.
You made it 200 miles !!!
The timing marks are on the back of the flywheel
seen through a small window
(may have a rubber plug on it)
on the pass side of the rear of the engine.
Connect the green connectors, connect the timing light
shoot at the opening and crank to start.
20 deg BTDC
The 22 mm he refers to is the size of the socket
used to turn the crankshaft bolt (most of us UN techs use a 7/8")
Have you checked for spark at the plugs?
Pull a plug reconnect the wire, lay it on the block or a good ground
and crank it - nice blue white spark?
If it is gas fouled the plug you pull will be wet with gas.
Try cleaning or replacing the plus
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if it does start or crank right up then most likly its the igniton switch and or relay.
Sorry Scooby, no relay on his car...
that is why I said to add one is an option.
All the rest of your advise is very sound.
Ray, this is a common problem.
Many add a relay as shown below,
this has been a fix I have personaly used on
about a half dozen of my own Subys and has
never given me problems.
The relay is available at any parts place.
Many say fix it right and spend the 100 bucks
on a starter or much less on starter solenoid contacts.
Then sometimes it turns out to be the ig. switch?
Which is a bit harder to replace due to anti theft
screws used.
Some say add the "never fail" button
The button is wired to do what Scooby says
to do with the hot wire
with the exception
the wire runs through a monentary (button) switch
mounted under the dash.
I will add a wiring diagram if you need.
Here is how to add the starter relay most cars have
and Subaru neglected to add.
Hope this helps, if you want to PM me about this please do so quickly
as I leave for FL in a day and will not be around much.
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It's all kewl Twitch
I just didn't want our man here
going out and disconnecting his
power brakes thinking it would fix his problem.
;^)
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Crap!! Thats the last time I let a friend check things for me!
I had a friend do the spark check list. I went back through the spark trail:
-coil to Dcap, good spark
-Dcap through plaug wire, no spark!
John, since this is the case the optical sensor in the dist is
good, if it were not you would see no spark anywhere.
Sensor is large black box at the bottom side
BTW; the CEL blinks steadily when I turn the key on.
Just found a post on reading error codes. Yeehaw!!!! Thanks PixO!
Pull down the panel that is above your knees when driving.
Up next to the steer. col you will see the ECU
The end of the ECU will have a small hole in it
with a LED down inside. It is called the 02 monitor
That is the place to read the codes.
Since the CEL is flashing, turn the key to on (don't start it)
and read the code.
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And also the brakes reduce vacuum.
That's why your car stalls when you stop, the brake booster reduces vacuum
in the air cleaner, which then decreases the amount of air flowing through
your carb, therefore pulling less fuel and stalling out your engine.
Sorry Twitch it does not work that way
unless
you have a faulty vacuum brake booster.
The idle may fall for a second then should recover.
(it's connected to the intake manifold not the air cleaner)
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I pulled the vacum line off the distributor to see if it was pulling vacum. Nothing. Checked back at the EGR valve, Nothing! Any thoughts as to what might be wrong? Any help would be appreciated.
Richard
Neither of the two places you mention should have vacuum at idle.
Do what ED says.
How many miles ago did you change
plugs and or wires and or air filter?
When these item come to the end of their service life,
aside from fuel mileage, the idle is the first to show signs.
Turn the idle up to 1000 RPM untill you get it repaired.
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sorry Bratman, you are just quicker on the draw than I am
you may want to have a look at this thread in the classified
section of this forum
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Ah Mr. (un) official smartass, I sincerely do not wish
to emulate your title
but
starting your own thread on these problems/issues
would be a wise idea.
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Are you from Cordova as in Spain?
Just down the E-5 from El Carpio?
We never got an electronic EGR as you describe.
DaveT is spot on with his recommendations.
Have you checked this device for it's electrical resistance?
Our ECU's are pretty dumb, they look for a certain
resistance, if the devise shows an open (infinite resistance)
it light the engine check light.
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that is not the way I use to clear the ECU stored codes.
Read here for more
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
From that site:
Codes will only clear when the faulty system or circuit has been repaired. After making the repairs,
codes can be cleared by connecting 2 pairs of connectors,
the "Self-diagnostic" connectors and the "Read Memory" connectors that are usually to the right of the diagnostic connectors.
- Start with a warmed up engine
- Turn off the engine
- Connect both pairs of connectors
- Fianlly start the engine
- This should clear the codes.
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I saw somewhere that the fuel rails on an EJ25 (?) tend to leak. First of all, I have an 02 OBW 2.5/auto. Is that the EJ25?
Yes, it is an EJ25
If it's leaking this bad you should be able to see it?
I do not know of a TSB on the problem
here is a link
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note the lic. plate number on mine
don't know what the FW means
I have a brand new Subaru (Robins) 8 HP
for mine but do not want to ruin the
originality
Did anyone watch the video I linked to?
It was quite the hit at Carlisle that year.
I let lots of kids
take it for a spin.
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they are fiberglass. about 1/2" thick. maybe...
Mick do you mean 1/4" thick?
I know mine is closer to 1/4 maybe less
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did you use an OEM 02 sensor?
Maybe check the 02 sensor plug.
BTW the light you looked at is
called the 02 monitor light
With the running and warmed up, at idle
you should see it flash in a random pattern.
This indicates that the 02 sensor and the ECU
are working together.
For the cost (~ 20 bucks NAPA for a Bosch) a new one might be in order.
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that's kewl, now it makes sense
but you do have to lower the rear end (differenial)
to lower the tank if it's 4wd??
I found all the hoses to be more of a chore.
Since he does not grace us with what
model it is, GL what? Brat, sedan, station wagon .....
I would say pulling the sender unit and looking
through the hole would be my first line of attack.
Then decide if the tank needs yanked.
Hard Start
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I'll assume you are positive you changed the correct
coolant thermo sensor not the temp sensor for the dash gauge.