jcniest5
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Posts posted by jcniest5
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Okay, lately my AC isn't blowing cold at all even though its full with freon. I've converted from R12 to the R134A freon and it was working fine until not too long ago. What could be causing the problem?
This is on a '91 Legacy AWD.
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Remember that the left and right timing marks (located on the left and right camshafts) have to line up with the notches and the main one (located on the crankshaft) with the one directly above it.
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If my memory serves me correctly (which may not), I believe you have to turn the engine twice to get to the correct one. I think you may just be on the first turn, so turn the engine one more time, the timing mark should come back to the same spot, which should be the correct one. But like said, my memory may be completely off, but it's worth a try.
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Really? thats unusual.
nipper
Unfortunately, yes. Few, but some do go out. Granted, mine is a '91, so age plays a big part on mine.
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HAve you taken a meter to the motor itself yet? i eman these things never go bad.
nipper
Mine went bad, so I'm sure there are a few out there that will go bad as well.
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I have a window motor from the 97 legacy. Anyone know if they are the same part or exchangeable? If not I am going to hit up a junk yard or something. Dealership said $400+ for the part plus labor.
So I need to remove the 3 bolts and I can pull the motor out? How do you get to the three bolts?
Again, if my memory serves me correctly, there are openings (or holes) that enable you to get to these bolts. I think they use size 10 mm socket. Hope this helps.
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I checked the voltage and it seemed to work right. I swapped switches with the rear and the rear worked fine and the front still didn't work. I have a door left from my 97 GT so I pulled that out and plugged the power from the 01 into the motor from the 97 and it worked. That means it is the motor I guess. How do I get the motor out? Has anyone done this?
There are three bolts holding the motor to the door panel. I did mine awhile back (the driver side) so I don't remember exactly how each step by step went but I think it was obvious what goes where. Nevertheless, it was a pain to work on it (especially putting it back together). Have someone stand by ready to help because you will need three hands at time. The glass keeps coming down and that is very annoying, so a second person standing by will save you lots of swearings...
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It's dawning on me that it may be the right rear bearing again. I just replaced it back in '04. Do bearings go out this quick? Maybe when the press machine shop did mine, they didn't put in enough grease, that's why it doesn't last. That's what I think.
Just an update: Finally had to do it regardless if it was the correct component or not, and it was really the right rear bearing going bad again after only three years of service. Took it back to same Red Rooster's Machine Shop and the guy there managed to break the ABS wheel while trying to press out the bearing. I knew he did it because it was good when I took it there but I asked him to solder it back in place and it works okay so I didn't make a big deal out of it. Other people might have made a big deal out of it.
The humming noise is gone now and all is good again (for how long, who knows!). The guy told me that aftermarket bearings usually never last as long as the original (or OEM) bearings. The bearing on the other side still going strong and I'm already putting the second aftermarket bearing on, that's pretty bad longivity. I forgot what brand was the first one, but this one is a Federal Mogul bearing...anyone heard of it? Good or bad?
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Does anyone know if the engine on a '97 Explorer is non-interference or interference? I see a Craiglist local here but I believe the timing chain/belt is broke. If the engine is non-interference, I might buy it and fix it. If it is interference, then I'm not going to bother with it.
Thanks...
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Well dont expect the idlers to last more then one timing belt change. If you have the originals at the 2nd belt change, swap them out. If you dont have an interfernce engine you can wait untill you have to call a tow truck if you want. Also dont forget your cam main and oil pump seals. They wont make it to the second belt. Water pumps can make it if you change the coolant every 3/36000 miles.
nipper
PS I dont trust ebay stuff for interfernce engines.
Thx...will do just that with my next timing belt change. It has been 100K+ miles since the last timing belt change. It's about time for another one but winter is coming and it's getting cold so I will wait until summer to do mine (assuming the car will last until then).
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God-that rust just gets every where doesn't it,is this due to road salting? Sorry to interject on this thread!!!
A good engine degrease/wash every once awhile wouldn't be too bad of an idea. My 91's engine looks a lot cleaner because I clean it regularly. Me, too, sorry that I have to offend someone here...forgive me.
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So, what's the final verdict? Synthetic or Conventional? I've been using Synthetic for the past six years or so. And I've used Penzoil and Mobil 1 full Synthetic. Should I stop using it and just juse thicker oil or one that is made for higher mileage cars?
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I would have the timing belt done, and would change the transmission fluid myself. I wouldnt worry about the coolant because as you already said it mostly will be changed with the head gasket job.
I completely agree on this. You would save at least $300 (if not more) doing the tranny flush and diff. fluid/oil change. These are easy to do.
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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but does anyone know when to replace the idlers (bearing - 3 or 4 of them) without having to take off the cover and inspect them manual/visually? I saw all these kits that have the idlers as part of them and I'm just curious. Should they be changed as part of timing belt change?
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...you can get a belt as cheap as 28$ at AZ, but i'll order the $40 somthing subaru OE belt on line. i just have to remember to plan ahead.
Can you give me their website?
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not necessarily. i thought there was a 60k belt for all legacys in the US except calf. and a 105k belt for california cars. i priced belts at autozone and the calif. belt is cheaper than the fed belt, but you have to order it. so if you walk in and ask for a legacy t-belt you pay more and get less. if you order it, you pay less and get more.
there's a price difference at genuine subaru parts as well.
By ordering, do I automatically get California timing belt? Or what should I tell them so I will get one?
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Okay... Jcniest5, did you use a California-model belt 100,000 miles ago?
Well, I changed it when I was living in Sacramento, CA, but I'm not sure if it's a CA timing belt or not. My engine has no oil leak, so I hope it will last until summer as I would never do it in the winter (in MN, that is). It's too cold to touch anything when the snow arrives. If I can do it within the next few weeks, I think I still can (assuming snow doesn't show up yet).
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At least with your '91 2.2L, which is non-interference, you'd be facing a tow (but not engine damage) if it breaks. However, the recommended change interval on your engine is 60,000 miles; if the timing belt hasn't been replaced once already, it's long overdue.
I put in a new timing belt when I first got mine back in '01. It had like 148,xxx at that time. Now it has 248,xxx.
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I think you can, but will have to remove the suspension....but how did you replace the differential? Did you remove one side of the suspension, like the link w/the instructions suggested?
No, I didn't remove any suspension parts. Basically, I lowered the exhause pipe, unbolted all the bolts that hold the differential, then it just came down. I don't want to remove the suspension. Back in '04 when I replaced the bearing, I tried to remove the suspension but was unsuccessful. Too hard to loosen the bolts/nuts without air/power tool. So, if I can't remove the suspension, I guess I have to lower the diff again. Not good...
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Talking about timing belt, I believe mine is over 100K miles now. Should I do it before it breaks on the road? It's such a pain to do it, though. Maybe this summer, I will do it.
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I just thought of something: I think it may be the right rear axle. I'm checking on it tomorrow. But what causes it to make this "emmm.." noise (if not the bearing)? Do you guys know if I can replace the axle without lowering the differential?
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Just checked both rear wheels, they both are very tight and not the slightest free-play, that rules them out. No noise whatsoever. I'm scratching my head now. Center bearing is my next suspect.
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It's dawning on me that it may be the right rear bearing again. I just replaced it back in '04. Do bearings go out this quick? Maybe when the press machine shop did mine, they didn't put in enough grease, that's why it doesn't last. That's what I think.
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Funny I ocasionally have it, too. So far, since about a year ago, I've heard it like five times, usually when I first start the engine (cold, I believe). Sometimes I rev the engine up a little and it will go away, other times, it won't. It would go away eventually. It seems to be coming from one of the sides, more like a valve is locked. You can hear "ta ta ta ta ta...." and no, it's not the regular ta that I hear everyday. It seems to be louder and more noticeable when it sounds. Not sure if I should try to figure out what's wrong or just keep driving until it goes to the grave.
AC problem
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Yes, the compressor engages when I turn on the AC, just no cold air coming out. I use a recharge kit with a pressure indicator to measure it. Can there be such thing as a bad compressor even if it's engaging fine?