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simple monkey

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Posts posted by simple monkey

  1. the sources i've read say to use 316L-grade stainless steel for two reasons:

     

    1- 316L grade ss contains the proper amounts of nickel and molybdenum to actually make it a catalyst in electrolysis, helping the caustic potash/distilled water electrolyte to do it's job.

     

    2- soft metals such as aluminum and copper are succeptible to corrosion under the operating conditions of a properly built high efficiency electrolyser.

     

    also, i don't think aluminum is as conductive as ss, is it?

    did not know nickel and molybdenum were good catalysts. i was assuming that aluminum and copper were good for this because they don't oxidize. aluminum is a better conductor than ss, all metals containing iron don't conduct as well as aluminum or copper.

    any updates on those using the hydrogen on a car?

  2. Anything can be adapted to fit with enough R&D.

    rx7 tranny bellhousing has a similar shape to that of an ej series engine, so it should be close to that of an eg33 as well. There is a lot more work that needs to be done with rwd in a subaru tranny, simpy pulling the front cv's isn't good enough.

  3. Ah ha! I found you! You nearly gave me a heart attack a few days ago at Fred Meyer's in PO. I heard your car and thought somebody was stealing mine! Car sounds awesome!

    whoa, i just read this. thanks, it takes a lot of work to make wrx exhaust fit an older soob. its amazing how much the sound changes when you put the muffler section on. i had a neighborhood session with just the downpipe on, sound like a day at the track. I can't say as though i've ever seen your car driving, i've seen it parked a couple times.

    and why is it so taboo redrilling the holes on the turbo? i've put about 4000 miles on mine so far, and no problems. and as far as underdiff exhaust goes, it would be perfectly fine with closer to stock ride height. my car is sitting on ground control coil-overs as low as they go, and i have a couple inches of clearance, and it doesn't scrape anything anymore.

    also, my gas mileage is pretty stable at about 26-27 mostly city driving.

  4. Well, its been a while since I originally posted this. Originally, in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&page=2&highlight=td04+drill

    it was said redrilling the holes on the td04 would mess with the clamping force. But since I basically stole my td04 ($50 with 10k miles on it, perfect condition) i decided to try it out. My friend with the drill press redrilled the holes for me. I don't have any pics of the holes at the moment, it was mostly trial and error of which way to drill the holes. Besides that, everything else was pretty straight forward. The water lines were a little difficult, but my enginuity helped make that easy. The pcv system looks like a cluster-f***, but I hope to put in a catch can soon.

    As promised, pics.

    I finally took some more pics and am still in the purusit of the older pics.

    new engine bay:

    td04swapstuff001.jpg

    new downpipe sits in close to the stock position, required some cutting and welding though.

    td04swapstuff002.jpg

    the only thing under the hood that really requider modifying was the mount for the throttle cable. So I cut off the stock one and welded on a homemadeone, raised the throttle cable about 2 inches.

    Hopefully more pics soon.

  5. Well, about 2 weeks ago, I finally put my TD04 into the RX. Ended up using an ebay down pipe and an Ansa Silverline catback for a WRX. It sounds great.

    <object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_c_kfbYBvA&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_c_kfbYBvA&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

    pictures later, and maybe more video.

    enjoy.:banana:

  6. the oil lines bolt up perfectly, but the upper coolant line needs to have longer. it points in a weird direction, sort of out and down.

    another thing you need to worry about is where the compressor wheel points. the stock turbo points up and the TD04 points in.

  7. well done on the exahust post turbo. while this thread is off topic, will BE/BH legacy front suspension work on our cars (after xt6/legacy knuckles control arms etc) in the front? i know the rear is very similar, but what are the dimensions in the front?

  8. so with the holiday season right around the corner, i was looking to swap a td04 onto my rx. i have most of my exhaust figured out, except for the manifold. i know there is the common method people use of welding the new flange on top of the stock one. but in this thread:

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&page=2&highlight=td04+drill

    its mentioned that you can just elongate the one hole that is off. has anyone every tried this?

    its only 1/4" that needs to be drilled or so.

    looking forward to what you all have to say.

  9. it looks like you can modify ford escort struts.

    http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=suspensionmod&action=display&thread=1073294331

    http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=suspensionmod&action=display&thread=1113789693

    and apparently the oem struts are very expensive. i think you should go to a yard and size up different struts, many older cars can use suspension from cars with a bigger aftermarket. for example, my brother's corolla uses camaro and mr2 struts. what ever you decide to, be sure to document it. you won't be the last to ask these questions.

    good luck in your findings.

  10. these volvo ones i'm interested in are high impedence. i'm assuming we have low impedence injectors, correct? when used on the N/A volvos, they require 4 x 10ohm resistors wired into the AFM. has anyone ever tried this before?

    glcraigGT, thanks for the response. i'm glad you brought up the impedence values early tho, might have forgotten about that........

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