turblowxt

I fully agree with this statement...my wagon has a rats nest in the vents and im slowly trying to get it out.

Okay after reading your quick response i went wild loosening it with a ratchet wrench:banana: and it seems to adjust where i want now. I was just kind of woried about if loosening too much would wear out the clutch throwout bearing. Im not sure why everybody wants to get rid of the HH feature. It seems handy when it works right. My other car doesnt have this feature, so i hope i dont get in it one day and expect it to work the same. Thanks again for the quick respose.

so ive searched and such but i cant find exactly what im looking for.Anyways, ive adjusted the hill holder cable on my loyale. Ive loosened it quite a bit but it still does not release the brakes till the clutch is ALL the way out. As in just before my foot is off the petal. This makes it even harder to pull out than normal. There is a way of not using the holder by not pressing down on the brakes all the way, but thats just kind of annoying having to do that. I rather have the hill holder work and work the way its suppose to. Maybe my clutch is not adjusted properly? Do i need to keep loosening the hill holder cable? any ideas?

Watercooled turbos are also cooled by oil ofcourse. Ive been running a watercooled turbo without the water hooked(non subaru) up for some months and it shows no signs of wear. Just let the turbo cool before you shut the car off. It doesnt take long but it will stretch the life of the turbo.

what about automotive greese? I was thinking of using it but i ended up fixing it the right way(weld in patches).

well you could pull the covers off the wheel well but you may get scared/nervous/frustrated i know i did. This car has surface rust in places too but its not horrible bad. I will have finished pics soon i hope. I have already sprayed the undercoat so its hard to see the welds now. BTW always wear long sleeves and gloves when you spary undercoat, it does not like to come off the skin.

so i started poking around on the rear fenderwells of my loyale to find that they were not solid. I and some friends have welded in patch pannels now. Sprayed the metal with ruberized undercoating. Im wondering if this happens to many people. You wouldnt think it was rusted out till you go poking at it with a screwdriver or somthing. On one side there is rust on top of the wheel well where the shock/spring is. Im thinking of bending another strip of metal to the wheel well and welding in on top of the exsisting wheel well. Then run bolts and washers thru the mouts into the new metal and tie it all together stronger than before. I know when it gets real bad the spring/strut will bust thru the wheel well and i want to keep that from happening. The rest of the fame wise is solid. Il let some pics speak for themselves.

yah i got that motor in the car now... seems to be running good. For now we are fixing the rust spots. May be a little documentation on that too.

well I pulled the motor this evening. Looks like the rod has a nick in the end of it. Appears to be risky reusing the old block. Il prolly see about pulling the messed up piston out anyway. We would have taken some good pics but my friend forgot his camera. Il put some up soon. Its quite easy to pull the motor btw, lot easier than a honda.

i felt the cy walls and there is maybe one spot that seems lke maybe a little knick or somthing. Il take a closer look soon when i pull the motor out. Il have to take some pics like you said, its not a pretty sight. Well is it possilbe to remove the rod without splitting the case. The car was in the driveway running about 2k rpm when it broke. so its didnt turn over much after it broke.

well i have a spfi ea82 and a few days ago I changed the head gaskets and t-belts and along with most other gaskets. I started the motor back up and it ran okay. After a few min of running the motor came to a sudden stop. Apparently a rocker arm was on sideways and a valve basically went into the piston. Now there is a hole in my piston and a broken valve/ruined head. The motor has 190K on it and im wondering what would be my best option? I can get another piston and rod for free or close to free. Ive been looking around for a motor and im not having much luck. Im somewhat decent with rebuilding motors of non-subaru variety. Would it be bad to clean the oil pan out and put a new rod/piston in and rod bearings in and slap it back together? Do you have to split the case to remove the rod? Im not up for splitting the case. I only paid 300 for the car so im not looking the drop a lot of money in it.

it is most definately electrical...... The pump is not geting power nor the power windows, locks, lights, horn, trip computer, horn, and most other things. Wipers work so does the signal , brake ligh works but i havent checked everything. The starter still works and so does the dash. I played with the fusable links but it didnt help any. whatever went bad either powers or grounds a lot of things.

there is no puff of exhaust.... I will tell more tormow. It got dark and cold quick so i didnt fell like messing with it.

im leaning towards electrical problems.....