burmzie

Subarus are tricky things. Make sure he is actually a Subaru Mech. Lots of guys say it, but few mean it. I finally have a tech looking at my car. I almost bought a new car too. I invested $500 and problem fixed. Car runs like new. Listen to what these guys are saying as they do know. My 98 Legacy GT has 270,000km on it. I have replaced the engine, timing belt, brakes, lots of sensors, and I wouldn't trade the car for anything. Honestly if you like the looks and the overall condition is good, you can replace the engine, and tranny for about $3000 parts and labour in. Don't get ripped by a friend. Lane

Good thing it is just the battery. Last time that happened to me it was a head gasket. Lane

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I can't fix this one. They have broken the post off the sensor end. There are only 3 posts. It pisses me right off that someone has mucked around with such important wires. I really hope that this fixes problem. Does anyone think that this would effect anything else?? My mech told me that the rear cat needs to be replaced. He diagnosed it by tapping it, and getting a second opinion from another mech that came over and concured after tapping it again. Thanks, Lane

Hey Kevin, Thanks for the response. My mech told me the same thing until my car failed because of the sensors that were faulting. How's your mileage?? As my CEL was on, my mileage went to hell. 85km on 20 litres of fuel.( I am sure someone can do the conversion) It's like I am driving a Hummer. Watch it. These things turn nasty quickly then screw everything up, as I am finding out right now.

Thanks for the response. Basically they have spliced 2 wires together into one in the transfer harness that runs from the main wiring harness to the O2 harness. The harness that is the main harness has 4 wires. The end that plugs into the O2 sensor only has 3 wires. Within that wire is the splice. From what I see, it looks like the blue/yellow wires. Regardless, the dealer wants $80.00 for a three foot piece of wire. Don't want to buy it if this is not the problem. Thanks again.

I had the same problem happen to me right after I did the brakes. What I found was that the tabs that hold the pad in the caliper were a smidge to big, causing the pads to rest against the rotor ever so slightly. I took a pass with a grinder on each of the tabs. Seems to be okay. I was told by our local parts store that this is common. I have never heard of it. But the long and short of it is my problem was that the tabs on the pad were too big. A simple shave has solved the problem. Hope this helps. Lane:)

Even more nuts that it doesn't tell you when you are low on Windsheild Wiper fluid. Hell, my 84 Nissan Pulsar even had that.

I am using a OEM on the front and a replacement on the back. The problem seems to be that the actual wire leading from the interior, has been spliced together. The orginal looks to be a 4 plugger, they have just spliced the Blue/yellow into one wire, making it a three wire on the O2 end. O2 is a 4 wire. Thanks Lane

1998 Legacy GT 220,000km Alrighty here we go. So for about 6months my engine light has been on. YEah yeah I know. So I had the codes read and it told us that it was the fuel trim mech. I was told that it was the rear O2 sensor. I just ignored it. THen as I was pulling through a drivethru, the engine began to kick me in the rump roast. RPM's through the roof, then almost stalling. Luckily I was near my mechanics, and wrestled it over. He replaced the rear O2 sensor, and all was well for a day. Then the front sensor took me for a bucking bronco adventure, and back to the shop. Replace front O2 Sensor. All was well for about 3 days. Then the engine light came back to visit. Replced the rear O2 sensor again (under warranty). The light went on a brief vacation. But it came back. I have been so pissed about it that I just let it go. Last week my brilliant mechanic told me that he thinks that the cat is blown and that is why the O2 sensor doesn't work properly. THis week the car was stalling out and hesitating doing 100kph on the highway. Now there was alot of water on the road, so I figured that my mech had not sealed the O2 connection properly ( water electricity BAD) . Turns out it wasn't. Real problem is that the coupling coming out of the wiring harness at the engine is a wire plug. Someone has taken the two blue w/yellow stripe wires (which I assume are the heater wires) and spliced them together to have both running into a single wire. This has effectively rendered the other end (going into the O2 plug) a three wire connection. Problem O2 sensor is 4 wires. Question here (after all of that), would this lead to a O2 sensor failure? If you doubled these lines could they blow the sensor or am I in deeper trouble than I think. Thank you kindly to everyone that helps. Lane:banghead: