playswithfire

I put a new(not reman) hitachi in my GL and sold my Weber because I'm trying to get the best mpg possible. From what I've read and heard, Webers get 23-25 mpg and my old hitachi was getting 28-30. Five mpg with gas prices only expected to go higher adds up in $$$ saved quickly. Hence the hitachi vs. weber. I have not moved the timing away from stock. Stock carb to stcok carb swap: would the timing need to be changed? Thanks for the name of RichieRich. I'll pmail him and see if he can help me out. I'll also try sean at Rallytech. Thanks, Mudrat, Zapar and northguy! --Aiden

I just put in a new Hitachi carb in my '86 GL Wagon. Great power increase but now I've got an erratic idle. I've looked for the obvious: vacuum leaks, leaks around carb and intake manifold gaskets, etc. I've tried adjusting the base mixture but no go. All ignition parts are new: plugs, wires, etc. Now I'm frustrated and am looking for a reliable mechanic in the Portland area. Anybody have any recommendations as to who can tune a Hitachi/diagnose this kind of thing? Do any of you competent Subie folks want to make a little extra cash by fixing this yourself? Thanks, Aiden Canby, OR

bump bump bumpity bump anyone?

Hey all, I left Portland heading for the coast with my usually dependable '86 GL EA-82 4X wagon filled with 5 people, a dog and backpacks. This was the heaviest load I've put the car to but it seemed to be doing great. We filled up with regular gas, added some octane boost for a little extra pep, and then we headed up Hwy 26 into the coast range. The first few hills were fine, a bit sluggish, but I attributed this to the extra weight. Then, on a long upgrade we suddenly bogged down, lost power and made it to the side of the road by downshifting and feathering the accel pedal. The car was idling fine: no heat, no smoke, no untoward noises, no hot hubs, plenty of oil, trans fluid, etc... It revved out, just wouldn't (won't) pull a load. I pulled back onto the road, drove few miles more to a country store and pondered the problem. The bogging didn't have the sharpness of an ignition miss but more the soupy feeling of fuel/mixture/??? I went into the store and bought a generic inline fuel filter and put it in, hoping that would solve the problem. Nope...same as before. So, pulling over again after jerking and lunging between 15-20 mph., I saw alot of oil smoke from the exhaust where the pre-heater pipe is attached. I pulled the pipe out of the car and through the hole in the heat exchanger could see the exhaust glowing red!!! HMMM?!?! Could my cat be plugged? We pulled back onto the road and this time avereaged much better, getting up to 3rd and 4th gears. I figured cooler air going into the carb was making for better mixture. We made it back home (barely) and I'm at my wits end as to what to do next. Here are the stats: --gas fill up + 1 bottle octane boost --20 miles later bogged severely when put under load --cap, rotor, air filter, etc. fine --plugs sooty --black smoke from exhaust (rich mixture) when bogging, no smoke when idling or revving with no load --new fuel filter --inside of carb clean --all vacuum hoses attached and in good shape --idles great, revs out fine, timing right on mark --filled tank again when half empty So what do you think? Bad gas? carb done for? bad cat? I'm really at a loss. Anybody have ideas about what to do next???? Thanks, Aiden Canby, OR

Hey all, I've got a gremlin in my headlight circuit in my '86 GL. Here are the symptoms: When the car is first started after sitting any length of time (more than 4 hours and especially after sitting all night) the headlights go wonky. When the switch is moved to the parking light position I have dash lights and parking lights, tail lights and a dull glow from the driver's headlight. So far so good. When I turn the switch to "headlights on" I lose dash lights and tail lights and the pass headlight comes on strong like it should (driver's is still dull). This goes on for a length of time (length of time varies with ???? ambient temp? temp of car warming up? engine rpms???) and then *bing* all lights come on as normal. I tend to drive the car for about 5 minutes before the lights come on which is dicey as it's often dark out and I have no taillights when this is happening. Here are the things I've checked. Batt voltage (12.5), Alternator output (14.1V), cleaned batt terminals and lugs, replaced fuses, swapped headlight switches. All to no effect...well... all to the same effect. I even swapped bulbs in the dull driver's headlight.... I just read in another thread (thanks, TomRhere) that Subaru runs their headlights grounded through the switch. How can I check these grounds? Any and all help, suggestions, queries, aid, tidbits of knowledge, jewels of wisdom will be appreciated. Get this a****le with no tail lights off the road! Thanks Aiden Canby, OR

I've been using a Radio Shack TRC-483 with a dual 48" whip antenna system. You'll hear alot of opinions (both very pro and very con) about Radio Shack's products. In fact I've had varying experiences with them myself. So roll the dice if you're going for a product from them. But this CB unit has been flawless for me for almost 6 years now. I had it my old '63 VW Single Cab that I took around the Northwest backroads looking for old VW's. Right now I'm looking for one of those antennas that double as an AM/FM antenna. They look just like a regular car antenna and so hide the fact you're running a CB. (I suppose a magnetic mount would do well for stealth too) Anybody have any experience with those? I've seen them online from various sources but haven't heard how they well they work. And General D., West Linn is close to Canby. I'll send you a pmail and maybe we can hook up for a or something... Take care Aiden Canby, OR

Hey all, I was out wrenching on the Soobs today, swapping Gl-10 rear trailing arms, sway bar and disc brakes into my GL wagon and I got to thinking. The gear ratio for the differential that came out of the automatic is 3.7:1. The gear ratio in my GL 5-sp is a 3.9:1. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't the lower gear differential be better for off-roading my wagon? Wouldn't I get, especially after I mount my pugs and bigger tires, better torque to compensate for the bigger tire circumference? Please correct me if I'm way off base here. Thanks Aiden Canby, OR

Hey all, I'm a chronic and incurable observer of my car's fuel economy, mainly because it's a great way to watch for changes in my car's health. My carbed (stock hitachi 2bbl) '86 4X GL wagon was getting a consistent 24mpg on my commute and daily driving. I dropped in an Accel super coil and the mpg bumped up to 27. Now here's my question... I recently started getting 30 mpg without changing any driving patterns or buying higher octane fuel. I was happy and just thought my car was spontaneously healing itself. Then during a routine underhood inspection I noticed that the pre-heater hose that runs from the exhaust to the air cleaner had come disconnected. I put it back on and guess what: I'm now back to 27 mpg. Is the cold air intake making that dramatic a difference in performance? Ideas anyone? Aiden Canby, OR

Hey again, One more question... Can I transfer the GL-10 trip computer from an 85 SPFI digi-dash car to an '86 carbed wagon? Where do the sensors reside? In the speedo? How does that critter work anyway? Thanks again, Aiden Canby, OR

Hey all, Since I decided to go ahead and part out the GL-10, the first order of business is to gather info BEFORE I have a mess of random hoses and gizmos and whatzits on my garage floor. Here's my first question: I want to transfer the cruise control from the GL-10 SPFI Turbo to my carbed (soon to be Weberized) wagon. What components will I need to swap out, beyond the steering wheel of course??? Where are the components of the cruise system located in an '85 GL-10? I assume there's a vacuum reservoir, and some hoses...probably a switch down near the brake pedal somewhere...what else? Thanks, Aiden Canby, OR

As I was driving down I-5 the other day I passed a flatbed semi with the snitzerized flattened hulks of cars stacked on its bed. Another load of metal for the melting pot. I could tell by the plastic and fiberglass that most of the hulks were those oh-so omnipresent (and, IMHO, oh-so-yawn inducing) class of 90's American vehicle-clones that Detroit has been spewing. Most of the new cars today not only look too similar to tell apart, but look too similar TO CARE to tell apart. I thought to myself: I wonder if in, say 20 years, there will be the Ultimate Taurus Message Board or the (God Forbid) Ultimate Aerostar Message Board. What is it that makes a vehicle (or anything, actually) something to be collected and something to develop affinity groups over? By the directions this thread has run it seems that what is collectible or desirable is always situationally based on your locale, personal taste and preferences, and how much money (I'd much rather be collecting late 50's era Porsche 356's than 1985 GL-10 sedans) and time you have to spend. And also what will fit your individual needs. Because of this great discussion we've cooked up on this thread I've decided to part out the sedan, use the mechanicals for the wagon and sell the body panels, doors, interior, etc. Look for items to be posted on the USMB marketplace and also donated to the USMB ebay auctions. My wagon will live longer for the death of the sedan. We all gotta eat. Thanks everybody, Aiden Canby, OR

Hey Sunflyer61, You have email in your inbox. -Aiden:wave:

Thanks Miles, but the story with the GL-10 is that the turbo seized or burst a pipe which then caused a localized fire from the oil on the front pass side of the engine. The P.O. luckily was carrying a fire extinguisher rated for oils and put it out. But not before the front timing cover/belt/vacuum tubes were sizzled. (Note: fire extinguishers=good...oily engines=bad) So the GL-10 doesn't run and I don't think I could get enough return on my effort for a non-running GL/GL-10 hybrid monster. Also, by swapping parts I am both doing 2X the labor and losing the use of the spare parts...If I could get enough $$ for the GL-10 afterwards , then maybe. But a non-running auto sedan??? Thanks, Aiden Canby, OR

Sentiment definitely seems to be trending against using it as a parts car. Here are some thoughts: Yes, Hondasucks, the GL-10 is an '85. My bad. The ad in the paper said '86 and I didn't look more closely. And, yes, Turbone I have seen the BYB site and I want a lift...for my wagon. The lifted sedans do indeed look awesome. However I work on a ranch in the Willamette Valltey and need the utility of a wagon. I also like to get back into the hills for backpacking, etc. and welcome the wagon's large dry space when returning from the soggy Oregon woods. And to everybody on the right coast...I wish you good hunting for non-rusty buckets...I worked in Vermont in '96 and bought an old E-81 Brat for tulin' around the back roads. It was so rusted out that the rear shock mounts had come through the body and I left shreds of my rear tires every time I took a big bump... Thing is, I have this car here...in my driveway. I have probably exactly 73 1/2 hours until the Oregon winter rains start (and don't let up til March:-\ ) and my nice wrenching weather ends. I have no desire to put another engine in this GL-10. I could sell it but wouldn't get enough $$$ to cover buying the parts I want to cannibalize for my wagon ( the parts I already have sitting in my driveway). Hence the dilemma remains... I'll hold off for another day and see if I get more input for the board... but the rains are comin', the rear axles in my wagon are hummin', and that up-down-up-down GL-10 seat shore is fun...:-p Anybody else want to comment? Thanks, Aiden Canby, OR PS More pics available via P-mail if anybody's interested...

Hi all. This is a fantastic forum! Once again I meant to introduce myself in the meet and greet section but my parts car is here and I have many many ???'s So here's an intro in the form of a question... First, my driver is an '86 4X4 D/R Wagon, carbed. I love it (3rd Suby). I just bought an '86 GL-10 4x4 sedan (see pix) that I intended to cannibalize for goodies such as rear discs, rear sway-bar, and the fun up-down-up-down GL-10 front seats, etc. Here's the catch: when I think of parts cars they are in poor condition. This sedan is in fine shape (less motor and turbo, which grenaded) with a great interior, perfect electrical, good trans. etc. A part of me hates to chop it up but the rest of me is drooling over the goodies for my wagon (cruise, power steering, trip computer... ... ... ) So what do y'all think? To chop or not to chop? PS. If I part it out, parts will be for sale here on the board and many will be donated to the USMB auctions...does that sway anybody? Take care, Aiden Canby, OR