DirtyMech

My 1985 Subaru DL 2wd with an EA82 engine gets pretty good highway mileage, and I've never heard of not using 5th gear when applicable. 5th gear is overdrive, and should always produce better mileage than 4th gear at the proper speed. Personally I don't use 5th gear until I get past 60 mph. At below 55 mph on level ground in 5th my engine will start to chug from the strain, but past that its fine. Never had a problem, and as long as the engine is steady everything should be working fine. On the highway I usually get between 35 and 45 mpg, and have gotten as high as 47 before. But in crowded city streets with moderate traffic I only get about 17, just like you stated before. 28 mpg sounds like a good average of both driving conditions, if that is where you got the number from. As far as the 5th gear thing goes, well I don't know much beyond that its there for a reason, and that reason is to save gas, so I don't see why it wouldn't. If you're having problems with it past 60 mph, there might be something wrong with the engine or fuel delivery. Have you had problems with 5th gear, or are you just stating what you've heard about it?

Here are the results of my compression test using an Actron Sunpro compression gague from Summit Racing equipment. The compression gague is the type that keeps the needle at the highest reached pressure until the release button is pressed. The engine is a EA82 from a 1985 DL 2WD, and I recently dismantled it, cleaned it, and put in fresh gaskets. Each number is a composite of two indivdual tests (tests were pretty consistent): Cylinder 1: 185 Cylinder 2: 175 Cylinder 3: 190 Cylinder 4: 190 Look pretty good? All cylinders are within 10% of each other, although it's somewhat close at about 8% difference between C2 and C3/4. The strange thing is that the two cylinders closer to the front of the engine are exhibiting greater wear. I wonder if this is common in Subarus? I held off on putting new piston rings in and reconditioning the cylinder heads until I got these results back. I never did a proper compression test before I removed the engine because I wanted to clean the sucker, and paint the inside of the engine compartment. Now I guess the next step would be for me to put everything back together and see if my original problem, the engine dying as it approaches idle speed, has gone away or still persists. Either way I can rule out bad engine compression as the cause of the problem....right? ...right.

Sonofa***************! I was under the hood standing on the chasssis trying to get this thing in. I tried aligning the clutch by eye as closely as possible and jiggling it every way to make it attach to the transmission shaft. No luck. Does anyone have any experience or advice regarding this procedure? Right now I'm going to check to see that the clutch alone slides on smoothly to the transmission. It's the same clutch from before I removed the engine, and it was hell getting it off in the first place.

I don't know about 1stsubaruparts.com, I've had problems finding some basic parts for my 85 DL in stock with them. Their online database is pretty crappy on top of that. I get my stuff from a company based in New Jersey called Auto Parts Web Solutions. They have a huge data base of OEM car parts. I've gotten a gasket set, piston rings, clutch plate, main bearing set, etc. at good prices, way better than Kragen or Auto Zone. Plus they got free 3-5 day shipping for orders over $50, which is sweet. At $91 for a full engine gasket set for an EA82 (including valve stem seals and main oil seals), they're pretty damn reasonable. They have multiple websites under different names, but the parts database is always the same. Here's one of their mirror sites: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ There's a lot of things they don't have, like valves and pistons, but they got basic things you're likely to replace.

Ahhh sweet, now it makes a little more sense. Once I put the engine back in my car I'm going to crank the engine via the starter while the carb and intake is still off and make sure the readings are consistent. Thank you all for the clarification.

Sweet Jesus, your guys's Subarus are hogs! My '85 DL 5-speed gets about 35 to 40 MPG on highway trips, depending on how fast I'm going. And I've gotten about 47 mpg before on flat highway (I-5 in the Sacramento valley) going about 60 mph. Maybe its just the EA81's that are hogs...

Okay, the compression ratio for an EA82 engine is 1 to 9.5 This means that at TDC, the compression should be at 9.5 atmospheres of pressure. My compression gague reads pressure in PSI, therefore I have to make a conversion. One atmosphere is equivalent to 14.7 PSI. Therefore if my engine's compression is perfect, I should be reading 9.5 x 14.7 = about 140 PSI? Is this correct, or are there factors I am not considering?

Ah well theres my problem. Thanks for the heads up.

On my 1985 Subaru DL, the EA82 engine would start up and die at idle. Since this has been a problem that been slowly getting worse, and after checking for a vacuum leak, I assumed that there was a problem with the engine. So I did a compression test before removing the engine to see what kind of compression I was getting. I screwed in the brand-new compression tester into the first spark plug hole and cranked the engine in the proper direction to see what the reading was. The result? No compression at all. The needle didn't move a damn bit, and it was the same for the other three cylinders too. I checked the compression tester orally, and was able to make the needle move faintly, so no problem there. What I'm wondering is if it is common for an old engine that hasn't been overhauled for a long time to have no compression when cranked by hand, or was I just using the tester wrong? Right now the engine is in pieces, and im preparing to put new piston rings and gaskets in, and clean the valves real good etc. Pics upon request.

Aha! Victory! Got the damn thing off...popping the clutch helped, that and the bolts I saw were only unconnected supports, although rusted pretty bad. Here's a picture: A prybar did come in handy. The splines seem pretty okay, hopefully I haven't damaged those driveshafts in the process. Thank you all for the help.

Allright! Got the photos working perfectly now. Here's a pic of my engine overall: Okay here is a photo of the left side of the flywheel housing with the bolt holding the thing together: And here is the right side bolt, which is very hard to reach: I don't need to uscrew any of the bolts in the hole that the starter motor left, do I?

Yea I unbolted the engine mounts. The engine clears the chassis when raised, but brings the transmission along with it and will NOT separate. Theres something holding it on, and I think its those studs. I dont own a crowbar but I will get one from somewhere here in a minute. I hope I don't screw up anything this way. You're sure the studs arent welded to the metal or anything like that? I'll give them a squirt of liquid wrench to be safe.

I'm having a pain-in-the rump roast problem getting the EA82 engine out of my 1800 DL. I've disconnected everything. The IM, the y-pipe on the exhaust, all the accessories, the four bolts holding the engine to the transmission. Theres nothing left in the engine compartment except the engine, plenty of room for the lift. But when I attempt to lift the engine out, it won't separate from the transmission at the flywheel. Upon closer inspection I found two studs that might be holding the thing in place, but I don't know how to remove them. Haynes and Chilton don't make any mention of these studs, and the one on the bottom would be nearly impossible to drill out, if thats whats required. This thing is driving me crazy. I've got pics of the engine, and will add them to this post momentarily.

I've just about got the engine out of my DL, and with the gasket set in from the mail I'm close to taking it apart. I'm researching five basic things that will be needed to put the engine back together: threadlocker or coater, assembly lubricant, engine cleaning chemicals, the Permatex anaerobic sealant that Snowman told me about, and a method of thread repair (chemical or otherwise). Words of wisdom from those who have experience with various products is very much appreciated, as are the stories of those who have experimented with inventive solutions. My limited knowledge and input is below: ---- 1) Threadlocker/thread precoater: The small (50 mil) retail bottles of threadlocker are expensive and dont cover a whole lot of bolts, and whether they are necessary I do not know. I can't find any bulk hi-temp threadlocker for sale online, but maybe there's a better solution. Perhaps a product used for a different application would work just as well. Hi temp silicone gasket would resist heat and movement, if the threads could be well coated. But the possible downside, that the threads become way too tight making it near impossible to take the thing apart again, is what keeps me from experimenting. I imagine that all bolts that I take out of the motor should be coated with something before I put them back in the engine. Theyre definitely going to have to be cleaned with my wire rotor brush before they go in, and some I know I will just have to replace altogether. All of the bolts were covered in rust and taking them out nearly busted some of them. 2) Assembly Lubricant: I've heard that regular motor oil works fine on Subaru engines for when you want to put them back together, but I'm not convinced that white grease or some other prelubricant might do the job even better. Certainly theres hundreds of possible solutions, but maybe just using a heavy grade motor oil would be the best solution, both for the machine and the wallet. Or maybe a mix of two different lubes for different parts, white grease for valve parts and motor oil for the rest, or something along those lines. 3) Engine cleaning chemicals: The heat-tempered deposits on the outside of my engine block can't be completely reached with a rotor wire brush, especially in the areas around the spark plug holes. I've used Powerhouse Heavy Duty oven cleaner to take off the major stuff, but the heat-treated carbon deposits remain. I imagine that some kind of acid would do the best job, but what is appropriate with regard to the metal (and my skin) I am not certain about. I need to research cleaning chemicals more, but I included it because its one of the five chems that I will eventually need. 4) Permatex Anaerobic Sealant: This is for the block halves, and replaces the OEM stuff that is no longer available. One problem: there's two kinds. One is called Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker, and the other is Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant. The difference in name is subtle, but the difference in price is around 600%, as can be found near the bottom of this web page with different permatex gaskets: http://caswellplating.com/permatex/permgasketmakers.html Snowman probably knows the difference. If I'm lucky he'll be around to clarify the difference between the two, and what I should use (and how many of those goddamn tiny 50ml bottles I'll need to do the job). 5) Thread repair: I've had bad luck with physical thread repairing using taps and the like. I see that Permatex has a liquid thread repair system, and I've also read about the threadeded inserts such as HeliCoil. Appropriate thread repair technique is a question common to all engines, so who out there has had really good success, and what did you use?

Um, valve seals? I think I see those in the Haynes manual...let me see if I can find a set for sale at Auto Parts Authority. Oh by the way, the APA site only lists my engine type (EA82) under the Subaru Leone/Loyales. Engine parts from these vehicles should be identical to the engine parts in a DL, right? Found what might be the valve seals! Are these them (valve STEM seals, right?)? No pic, sadly. http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/parts/autopartsauthority/wizard.jsp?year=1985&make=SU&model=LOY--001&category=A&part=Valve%20Stem%20Seal&dp=false If not, where can I buy them? ------- Okay, about the tools. Check out this cylinder hone and ring compressor I found at ToolTopia. Look like they will do the job for me, or am I going too cheap? Cylinder Hone: http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7114 Ring Compressor: http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5476 --------

Well I've done it. I've committed myself to at the very least putting new head gaskets on my car's engine, which is leaking oil faster in recent days. I ordered the full OEM gasket set from autopartsauthority.com for only $94 w/ free shipping. The vehicle is a 1985 Subaru DL 1800 2WD carbureted (DCZ-328). I'm going to be removing the engine from the vehicle even though I've heard that you can replace head gaskets without doing so. The main reason for this is because the chassis inside the engine room is covered in 20 years of caked-on grease and fluids. It's ugly and makes it hard to see the vehicle components, so while the engine is out of the vehicle im gonna scrub down the chassis and give it a paint job. But as for the engine, I need to correct a few things. I'm considering replacing the clutch while the engine is out of the car, because that thing squeals pretty bad. But I'm considering that I may have to go further than new head gaskets, because the spark plug from cylinder 1 suggests that oil is leaking into the compression chamber. Once I get my compression gague in the mail, I'll know more about the condition of the combustion chambers. But if the seal between the piston rings and cylinder wall is faulty, I might have to take this engine apart and put it back together piece by piece, which is a daunting task. Is there anyone here who'se done something like that before? If so I'd like whatever advice you can give. Are there any special engine tools that I should consider investing in? A ridge reamer, etc? I'm reading up on basic engine service in the Automotive Encyclopedia, but I'm sure that advice from someone who'se had hands-on experience with an EA82 will be invaluable. Should I order any engine parts beyond the gasket set? What should I expect, and avoid doing?

Yes those are the duty solenoids for certain. They're part of the carbureters feedback system. Acting on information from the car's computer sensors, they send extra air to the carbureter to lean the mixture when necessary, or so I understand. They can be tested with a dwell meter if you have one. The Haynes manual explains the duty solenoids in detail (while the Chilton does not, big surprise). I wouldn't disconnect them if I were you. If the duty solenoids are operating stronger than normal, I'd guess that its a symptom of the problem and not the cause. But there would be no harm in disconnecting them and testing the vehicle if you were really curious.

The clicking is probably from the two duty solenoids. Apart from that I don't know much. They didn't click like that with the key turned on before you started having the trouble? From what I know about my carbureted 85, they'll always make at least some sound with the key on, although mine became excessively loud at one point when the car was starting to have trouble.

Thanks for the lead Snowman, but I checked on it and they don't have a full gasket set for an EA82. I called the store directly and the guy who answered seemed...well a little confused. He sounded stoned but maybe he was just tired. He couldn't look up my gasket set by engine model, only by vehicle. And when he did find a set it wasn't one for my vehicle, and he couldn't match it to an engine model OR my vehicle via VIN number. So are there any other Subaru parts stores out there on the net that might be able to get what I need? Otherwise I'll have to order through a local dealer in town.

OK sweet. Thank you both for the info. But about the gaskets; is there any place online that I could buy a full gasket set for the EA82 engine, or where they sell individual gaskets? I've talked to a guy at an independent auto parts store, and he says they can order the full set for about $150 plus freight. Is there anywhere online I could get a set for a similar or better price?

After taking off the intake manifold of my EA82 to look for a vacuum leak, I've developed a coolant leak into the valve chamber and flooded the cylinders with coolant. Its a damn mess. Anyone have suggestions on how clean the cylinders without removing the engine from the vehicle? I'm going to put rubber hose through the spark plug holes to drain most of the coolant, but this still leaves the cylinders moist will make it very hard to start the engine. Will I ultimately have to take the crankshafts and valves off of the engine to get to the cylinders to clean them properly? I've already decided that when I put the thing back together and start the car again, I'm going to have drained the entire cooling system and left it drained in order to get a better chance to start the engine. I imagine that if I can just get the engine running again I can continue to look for the problem that is causing my engine to die at low idle.

Ahhh, that answers my question. My car's engine is an EA82. Thank you very much Edrach. Subyrally, is the idle air control valve part of the carburetor? Where is it located? Is there a way to test it? I thought the carb's choke controlled air flow during idling...

Oh hey, on a side note, does anyone know exactly where the secondary fuel filter in an 85 DL is located (the one in the engine compartment) since Johnson mentions it? I'm not convinced that there even is more than one because when I was doing the carb rebuild, I traced the fuel line from the carbeuretor and it disappears under the master cylinder housing into the chassis wall. I KNOW about the one next to the fuel pump under the rear end of the car, the one next to the fuel pump (that ones easy). And yea I have replaced it, about 6 or 9 months ago. And when I checked the fuel in the float chamber it looked clear as tap water, which is a good sign. But thats a little off from my point. Basically what I'm want to know is whether or not 85 DLs have two fuel filters, and if so where is the second one? If nobody is sure I'm gonna assume they only come equipped with the one.

Ahhh, you're probably right Nuto! Thank you for the diagnosis! That makes a lot of sense now that you say it. That'd make the idle mixture lean, causing the engine to die...and I never checked the intake itself when I was doing the carb rebuild. I think I'm going to take off the intake manifold and check the gasket seal, and then put the hoses back on one at a time and check them. If it isn't a vacuum leak, I'll make sure of it before I take it into a shop.

I've been having a hell of a problem with my Subaru, and I'm wondering if anyone here has experienced something similar. My car is a 1985 Subaru DL 1800 2WD @ about 179,000 mi. The problem is that it will not idle at low speeds. This is a problem that has grown slowly worse. I've tested the car at both cold and hot temperatures, and it dies at regular idle speed under both conditions. The battery is fine, and the starter motor will start the engine, but the engine dies shortly after unless I hit the gas or turn up the idle really high on the carburetor. I thought at first that the problem might be with the carburetor (DCZ 328) so I rebuilt the thing and put it back on the engine. The automatic choke bell housing was loose, so I fixed that, but no luck with the idle speed problem. Could this be a symptom of incorrect timing? I'm still waiting for my timing light to arrive in the mail from Harbor Freight before I can check to see (timing hasn't been checked for two years). Perhaps when I was rebuilding the carburetor I adjusted it incorrectly? I know that the problem has to lie within one of these four areas: -Electrical System -Fuel Delivery/Computer Controls -Engine -Exhaust I'm hoping beyond hope that there's nothing wrong with the engine, although the problem might be due to a compression leak in one or more of the cylinders. Unfortunately I don't have a cylinder compression testing kit. The engine SEEMS fine, no odd noises, and at high RPM it purrs like a kitten. My best guess is that the fuel mixture is off at low idle or that there is something wrong with the electrical. For two year's I've been the only one to do any kind of mechanical work on my car, and I now I think that I might have to give in and take it into a shop. But before I do that I'm hoping someone has an idea. Are there any other tests I can perform to try and locate the problem, or has anyone experienced a similar problem? All input is GREATLY appreciated!