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99 OBW EJ25D Headgasket Project


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I'm in the middle of changing the head gaskets on my 99 obw and yesterday I got the heads off. It was MUCH easier than I thought!:banana: I didn't have to jack the engine up or anything and I didn't need any special tools except for a universal pulley holder (http://secure2.data-comm.com/servlet/RBIS/-strse-170272/1MZR7-Universal-Pulley-Holder/Detail) and a 10mm 6 point gear ratchet (http://www.kd-tools.com/PDF/GEARRAT.PDF) that I had to use for the bottom-rear exhaust cam journal bolt. It was too close to the frame rail to get a regular socket on and a 12 point box-end wrench was starting to round off the corners because it couldn't get all the way on. The gear ratchet is definitely worth it. My father in law already had them, but I would get them for this job.

 

Here are a few of my notes that might others:

 

  • If I was doing it again, I would break the sprocket bolts loose on the cams before removing the timing belt.
  • I used a universal pulley holder and a couple of 3/8" bolts in the crank pulley to hold it while I broke the bolt loose.
  • To break the cam sprocket bolts loose, I used the old timing belt and wrapped it around the cam I was working on and the crank pulley, which I put back on. This connected the cam sprocket to the crank sprocket. Then I had my father-in-law hold the crank with the universal pulley holder to resist me torquing on the cam sprocket bolts. I guess I'll have to do the same to torque the cam sprocket bolts when I'm reassembling.

It's easy to see where the heads failed. They fail on the bottom side where the coolant pools up.

 

I didn't have my camera with me, but I'll post some pics of the parts. Really fun! Wish me luck on the rebuild.

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you actually can just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a 22mm socket to get the crank pulley nut off. Brace it against the ground with a pipe over the end of the breaker bar (drivers side of the pulley) and use the starter. just bump the starter over and it will break the nut loose.

 

If you dont like that way, get a clutch/fan pulley wrench. they have 2 pegs on one side and 3 pegs on the other side. They are like 30 bucks. (they are made to hold water pump pulleys stationary while you break the clutch/fan loose) but they work just fine for a crank pulley on a soob

 

Also I've found that for me, its faster and easier to pull the engine out to do the heads. 20-30 minutes and I can have a EJ engine on the floor. I like this way because you can put the engine on a stand and rotate the engine around to get all the old coolant and oil out of the engine. And its also easier/faster for putting on timing belts and checking for oil leaks (oil pan gasket, rear main seal (since they seem to leak more often on a EJ engine vs a EA engine)

Edited by torxxx
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Engine removal is the smartest way to do this engine as you can tip the motor up and do each side cleanly and be sure of a nice mating surface when replacing the HG. I hope you marked the location of all of the lifter buckets. They are not hydraulic and if mixed up you witll definitely have valve problems. I am meticulous about making sure everything goes back in it's original position.

 

Good Luck

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wow that headset is a great deal. The look semi o-ringed. I'd say get the set either way, and u can always not use the HG's that come with it. for 75 bucks for that engine, that barely covers the cam seals, valve cover gaskets/grommets and the intake and exhaust gaskets.

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  • 4 weeks later...

:banana: It's alive!!! :banana:

 

Yesterday I finished my HG project. My suby runs stronger than I can remember! And best of all, no more overheating!!!

 

I ended up replacing the tbelt and all the tbelt pulleys along with the water pump. Setting the timing was really pretty easy.

 

We got it all put back together, filled it with liquids, and then held our breaths as we cranked it. It fired right up, but had a bad valve clatter on the right head. It smoked quite a bit from the new gaskets and grease on the exhaust. It threw code P1507 Idle Control Aux Inputs. We cleared the code and after a couple of shake down runs it's been running fine.

 

I think that the clatter was because there wasn't much oil in the right hand head. We cranked it several times before putting the spark plugs in until the oil light went out, but I guess it wasn't enough. Next time, I'll take the PCV off the right head and add some oil in there cause the left one gets all the oil as you fill. We did use assembly lube/grease on all the cams journals and lifters, but I guess it needs a healthy bath of oil.

 

I'll post some pics tonight. It feels awesome to put it all back together, turn the key, and hear it run just right.

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Here are some pics of the project.

 

Photo0164.jpg

The 'sick bay'

 

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The bad gaskets. You can see where they failed on the right side of the left and the left side of the right one. They were the same on the other side.

 

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A close up of the failed gaskets.

 

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We kept everything organized and marked so it goes back in the same hole.

 

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I cleaned the tops of the pistons off.

 

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The front before we replaced everything.

 

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The cleaned and machined heads.

 

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DSC04111.jpg

 

I'm getting a P1507 now, which I think must be related to the IAC motor/valve. I'll have to diagnose that.

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  • 2 months later...

Congrats and great pics, I'll be doing a 96 OBW 2.5 when it gets warmer. I had a few ?'s.

Who did the heads and how much?

Did you do a valve job too?

What did u end up doing/paying for the OEM gaskets and parts?

Thanks again and those tips in 1st posting are great. I had done just the HG's on my sons 97 LSI and had a lot of probs with the pully removals. BTW I used the Ebay HG's on his and didn't mill the heads because they measured out true. It's been about 8,000 mi and haven't had a problem (knock all wood around me )

The Ebay Head Gaskets looked good but I ended up having to buy OEM ValveCovers because they leaked, bad. Lesson learned get the OEM I'm going all oem on the OBW because we love the car and I got it on a barter. No leaks too.

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