I have a 2000 legacy outback wagon with an interference 2.5 motor. Talked with the mechanic and it will be $450 to change the timing belt, tensioner, and seals in the crankcase. He also asked me if i wanted to change the water pump seeing as if the water pump goes he will have to go back in there to change it. That would add another $200 and i am wondering if you guys suggest doing that or if i am spending unnecessary money if i replace the water pump as well. Thanks for your feedback.

 

 

Jason

Yes, changing the water pump while changing the timing belt is very worth while. I always have that done at that time. Swap out the front oil seal is a good idea too.

It's generally considered money well spent. I don't know your mileage but ALL that labor is expensive to expose the t-belt. If the pump goes next month it must be repeated. Most of us do both. Me included.

 

Secondly, if you are handy, say on a scale of 6 of 10, then you CAN do this yourself. I believe you have the SOHC (the easier one).

 

Haynes manual $20. Not payin $600, priceless.

 

Ryan

Most all of the people on this board would say to change it. In contrast, I have had 3 Subaru's that went over 200,000 mi and never changed the water pump. And I didn't change it on my 4'th at 180,000 mi. However, these were/are non interference engines. With an interference engine, especially at the first timing belt change at 105 k, there is quite an investment that could be in jeopardy if the water pump seizes and breaks the timing belt. At the time of the 2'nd change, the car might not be worth enough to worry.

 

And finally, a word from a Subaru service rep who I asked the same question and I quote, "they almost never fail."

<< I have a 2000 legacy outback wagon with an interference 2.5 motor. Talked with the mechanic and it will be $450 to change the timing belt, tensioner, and seals in the crankcase. >>

 

you dont post your mileage, but, skip the tentioner and get the water pump. after doing almost 100 timing belt / reseals at my shop, i havent seen one fail yet. and like posted above, do your crank seal and your cam seals if needed.

FWIW I've seen WP gaskets go bad - but never the WP itself.

 

But I do all seals(OEM), idlers, WP & OEM gasket.

 

Occasionally I skimp on the new style tensioner due to the price. Depending on the miles on the car and how it seems when I compress it.

I've seen the water pump bearing lock up on high milage subarus where it was never changed. It's on the backside of timing belt, so it just burns the belt and the engine overheats, it won't throw the timing off. The other idler bearing will fail and let the belt come off the pullys though, so replacing the idler pullys is good practice.

The car has 100,000 on it so i am calling and getting quotes right now. Thank you everyone for your feedback and responses. Great information.

 

Just to clarify i need or should do the following:

 

Timing Belt

Water Pump

Crank Seals

Cam Seals

Timing Belt Tensioner (Optional)