So i have a tired power window system. Not sure what to do either. The windows go down seemingly fine, kinda stick, but going up takes a long time and i cant roll some up with my set of switches. I cleaned the insides with windex and it just seemed to worsen the problem. Where should i start? Is it the door trim rubber that is causing too much friction? Part electrical issues? Thanks

Sounds like a worn out motor to me. My passenger side on my MR2 does the same thing. In fact, it will randomly stop working with the window rolled down!! Come to find out it was just a weak motor and it would get stuck if the window went all the way down because it didn't have to power to over come the weather stripping. But that's on a toyota, not a subie, so I ya, take that for what it's worth

 

You could also check the ground and the wires on the motor to make sure that your connections are good and solid and you don't have a loose connection. You could also try connecting the window motor directly to the battery and see if it's any better. That way you rule out the connection/wires in the car as the culprit. That's about all I got.

agreed.. it takes more force to roll up a window, you could look for a used motor ??? .

If you are looking for a used window motor, I am picking up two from a user on the board off of a car going to the junk yard, so you might be able to talk him into pulling the others for you. Here's the thread

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104448

 

Just a thought...

i have a JY 3 minutes away with tons of subarus, so if its the motor, i will go snag some from there. I havent taken apart the door panneling for fear of ruining wiring to the switches, is there enough wire length and a disconnect so i could completely remove the pannel? How hard is a motor swap? Thanks

i have a JY 3 minutes away with tons of subarus, so if its the motor, i will go snag some from there. I havent taken apart the door panneling for fear of ruining wiring to the switches, is there enough wire length and a disconnect so i could completely remove the pannel? How hard is a motor swap? Thanks

 

I have only taken apart the driver and passenger doors, but there is just a connector for the wiring on the panel, so undo the connector and the panel is free from the door, super easy. This was on the front, but I don't see the back being any different from the passenger door... I have not done a motor swap though so I don't know on that one.

 

I just wanted a couple of backups from a car that hasn't sat outside for who knows how long and been torn into by who knows who, that's why I got the motors from the dude on here. At least my chances of getting a good motor are better that way

I tore apart all the panneling today and lubed up everything. They work a lot better and i got rid of one issue with the switch not working. Only one more problematic switch i probably need to replace. Thanks for everyones help

You might think about getting a can of aerosol silicone spray lubricant. Excellent for lubricating window felts.

What junkyard is 3 miles away from you? I also have a window motor in my shed that I would give away.

windows are working good, i lubed them up as far as the rollers go, but i dint lube the felt pads. Should i spray silicone spray on those too?

 

"What junkyard is 3 miles away from you? I also have a window motor in my shed that I would give away."

 

-its state street auto something like that. Its in south provo possibly springville. They have a couple GL-10's with disc brake set up you could snag. I just dont have the need to do the swap. And a nice older turbo coupe with the checkerboard seats. But the driver seat is torn in the usual places but look like decent seats otherwise. I just dont have money right now to run away with my project and buy parts otherwise i would so some swapping. Oh the rotors are all rusted out though on the rear disc systems.