guydakine Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Hi all, Got a new '02 Forester with a bad automatic transmission, found a good used one for cheap and doing the swap as we speak. Couple quick questions and will add some more tomorrow night after working on it all day with newer issues I'm sure. The old trans had code#TZ1A3ZC3AA-PM,,, the new trans, also an '02 has code#TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8,,, the only difference being the 3AA to 2AA and PM to P8, I was told it would be a perfect match, any issues anyone knows of please let me know.. Also, I did an engine swap on a '96 Outback with an auto trans as well, it was a bi at ch but had success without ever opening my new Haynes manual! Sold the Outback with the manual.... So first, do the axles need to be freed from the ball joint in order to swing out free for removal?? Also most pics I'm seeing posted don't really show in detail the torque converter bolt up and alignment procedure. What should it line up with and how do I know where I'm at in relation to the engine/trans being inline??? So afraid of what I've read about the transfluid pump.. When I did the Outback it was a miracle I didn't ruin it, as I aligned the bolts to TC using a screwdriver to move the flywheel, it clunked loudly into place, meaning I was just about to destroy my pump for sure.. If any of this makes sense please reply to it, I'll check it in the morning and will pick up a manual as well. Thanks.. Forgot, are the 4 bolts to the Torque Converter/Flexplate in a pattern? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 setting the torque converter is well covered. those posts need to be added tot he USRM if they are not already. as for the axles - no you don't need to do anythign to the hub side - helps but not necessary. the easiest way is to remove the top strut mount bolt (mark it first so you can resinstall the head int he exact same position). loosen the lower and then you can rotate the entire hub "out" and pull it away from the trans. strut bolts are much quicker than ball joint and no worries about rust, corrosion, or tearing the ball joint boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guydakine Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Update; I'm a little stuck, no manuals on Maui or in Hawaii for that matter, I'll look on Ebay. So, I can't seperate the drive shaft from the rear of the trans?? What am I not doing, I'm ready to remove the trans but can't due to the driveshaft. Also a frozen swing arm bolt won't allow me to free one axle, about ready to get out the dremel and cut it off, somebody used some major thread lock on it.. Also could someone give me a detailed step by step on the torque converter to flexplate removal and install, or the URL to it's location online or on the site?? I need to not mess this up, very scared as I've heard many disaster stories about screwing up badly.. Thanks.. Or,,, could someone with a manual scan me or take a photo of the detailed page out of the Haynes on how to do these steps?? Also, I'm referring to the "drive shaft" out the back of the trans to rear end, not the axles, as I've heard the axles referred to as the drive shafts as well.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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