Ok, so I seem to have my Carb pretty much dialed in on my Brat, I only have two problems now.

 

1. Some times she takes her time coming back down to an Idle 700 or 800 rpm, and will sit at about 1000. Other times she is just fine.

 

2. After running around town or what have you, if I shut it off and say let her sit for 15 or 20 minutes, then she will fire up and idle great but the minute you go to put a load on her she starts to sputter, shake and vibrate... and will do so for about 2 or three miles...

 

I'm not really knowledgeable about carbs but I'm trying.. Any Ideas to check? its an 83, And I can't find any vacuum leaks. tomorrow I'm going to Liberally spray the hell out of it with carb cleaner inside and out.

Make sure there is voltage going to the choke. On my '83, a previous owner rewired the rad fans with the power to the choke wire. This left less power for the choke, and it didn't fully open. Mine idled at 1500 rpm until it was completely warmed up.

I'm begining to wonder if my choke is even working because its Idle when cold is only about 1000 to 900?

You could unplug the choke, and check for resistance. Take the leads on your tester, put one on the pin for power and one on ground, you should read very little resistance. If there is resistance, the choke is probably bad. The way the choke works is just a thermostat. When electricity flows through a piece of sprung metal in it, it heats up, expands, and opens up the choke. So check for resistance, and then voltage, If you have both, it should work.

There should be some form of vacuum choke pull-off that assists in unloading the choke when you open the main circuit. Check that as it needs to operate - especially when the engine is already warm.

 

There is a fast idle cam attached to the choke linkage that increases the idle speed when the choke is on - sounds like your's is not adjusted or not working properly. Cold idle should be around 1500 RPM and drop down in a two stages as the cam pulls off with the choke.

 

Make sure the tach is correct. I've seen a few that stick right above the idle speed. So it looks like it's idling at 1000 or 1200 but it's not. I have to smack the top of the dash above the tach on my '83 hatch as it sticks in that region. Most of the time I don't bother with it.

 

GD

GD,

 

Can I just drive it down to you and let you fix it?

A bit of a drive - but sure - if you want to come down this way I can likely fix it - assuming something isn't broken that I can't fix/don't have parts for.

 

If you are going to make the trip - why not pickup a Weber and we can install that instead?

 

GD

you know a place that sells cheap webers? I also have a couple of spare carbs, it pieces, I'm sure I can figure something out..

Pick up a used one on Ebay. They are simple carbs. Lots of VW people always selling them. Popular on Jeeps, etc. Last used one I got with good throttle shafts was $100. Adaptor plate is $37 around here, and a rebuild kit goes for about $30. Add a few jets to get it setup right and you can usually get one up and running for less than $200.

 

I have a 32/36 DFEV sitting here that you could have for the $25 I paid for it. Needs a few jets and a rebuild kit. It's got sloppy throttle shafts but those can be bushed relatively easily with kit's availible for around $50 to $75. I prefer the DGV's myself so I'll probably never get around to using it.

 

The Weber is totally worth it for the time/effort it takes to install them. Bring me a used one and a kit - I can rebuild them in my sleep.

 

GD

Whats the difference between the two? and what would you charge me to get that one good to go and installed?

No real differences - they are mirror images of each other. I usually do installs for about $100. Or you can do it yourself and I can just give you pointers. It's not that hard.

 

GD

If your looking to get work done, there is a Shop in Kent, East Valley Auto. they specialize in subarus. do alot of great work. i tend to find my self there on weekends trying to make a mess :-D

I have dealt with them before, I like em but They want a lot of money for stuff. I usually deal with Rob and Steve at Superior subaru in Burien

I have dealt with them before, I like em but They want a lot of money for stuff. I usually deal with Rob and Steve at Superior subaru in Burien

 

I just buy parts and use all there tools ;-D, never had to pay labor.

You are welcome to do it here at my place and I'll lend a hand. I won't charge for that or using my shop/tools. I just can't justify doing the whole job myself as I have many, many projects to contend with. Pointers in the right direction while I'm working on something else I can handle though.

 

You will need a base skill set. I need something to work with. . I can't run a tech school ya know .

 

GD

Definitely have a base skill set but I know very little about Carbs, I think I might have it figured out though, at least the choke part, my Ported switch on the intake, only has one hose coming off of it, and the other one is plugged. The one that is plugged looks like it is supposed to go to the choke, at least according to the FSM.

 

GD, I might take you up on this offer....

Edited January 21, 201016 yr by xoomer