Rhubey Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 After a long journey of troubleshooting everything causing steering wheel vibration over 55mph, i've replaced rotors/pads and now the wheel bearings at 120k mi are next. I would have ordered Timken but opted for the cheapo Precision bearings for $17/pair anticipating the axles are next in a year or 2, w/the new 6spd gearbox...or pipe dream. The FSM calls for 159'lbs torque on the axle nut. This seems kind of high to me, and there is no preload specs, although i have never replaced this type before and feel the need for reassurance. The FSM also calls for the "GOLD" axle nut, which I have the "OLIVE" installed of course. Does anyone know the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 If it's in the FSM then that's probably what the torque should be. Though I'm not sure what you mean by Gold vs Olive axle nuts (color?), I don't think it makes that big of a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Yeah Subaru has had grey, green (olive) and gold axle nuts over the years..I personally don't think it makes a difference...as long as you torque it to the proper spec and stake it I would think you should be fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 The preload is set when the two inner races contact each other as you tighten the axle nut. For me there were several-3-5 axle nut rotations that took a fair bit of torque, then the bearing races contacted each other, then the torque value was reached within 1/8 of a turn or so. Make sure you do not tighten the axle nut by putting weight on that wheel- the bearings can't see any load until they're fully preloaded. Have someone stomp on the brake pedal. If you're using a press make sure that what is taking the force is the correct part of the bearing/hub/spindle. I did mine last year, writeup is here somewhere. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhubey Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 For me there were several-3-5 axle nut rotations that took a fair bit of torque, then the bearing races contacted each other, then the torque value was reached within 1/8 of a turn or so. Dave The "OLIVE" nuts are called for the 3.0 and the "GOLD" are used on the 2.5. Mine is the 2.5, but they both seem to use the same bearings. Did you reuse the axle nut like i'm planning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 The "OLIVE" nuts are called for the 3.0 and the "GOLD" are used on the 2.5.Mine is the 2.5, but they both seem to use the same bearings. Did you reuse the axle nut like i'm planning? I got a new nut, and got all my parts from the dealer. Only bad part about re-using the nut (AFAIK) is if you need to stake it in the spot where it was staked before. What on earth could be different about the nuts? Same thread on both, axles are the same, hubs are the same, wheel bearings are the same as far as I can tell... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhubey Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 Yeah, I couldn't think of any reason for the difference either, and i have always reused them also. Now i need to find a pretty long pipe to break these suckers loose. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhubey Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 So I thought that I should come back after 200mi and update the solution to my serious steering wheel vibration @ high speed since many others have had similar symptom and no real documented conclusion. 1st Replaced the front rotors/pads, obvious warp. I tried to manipulate the rack, ball jts, axle and wheel for play which was not obvious. -fixed breaking vibration though. 2nd Swapped front & back tires. - no affect. There was slight cupping on the inner row of tread drivers side. Almost need a micrometer to detect. 3rd Tried the rack, ball jts, axle, & wheels again. crowbar under the wheel (w/light pressure) my hand fealt a slight pop on the spring, drivers side only. Almost in need of a stethascope to detect I thought, and certainly couldn't see any movement. -Decided to replace the bearings because there's no back-woods reason for it to need aligned at least yet. 4th Pulling the knuckle to do a bearing/seal replacement is extensive, w/o alignment, so i'm hoping that the cupping will not return on the fresh tires. So I conclude my vibration fix could have been: 1. The bearings. 2. Rotating the ball jts 90 deg. 3. The broke-thumb-swearing-case-beer-dance-ritual ...THAT CURED MY WIFES BLUEBARU. Something I learned is not to drive a seized race w/a log splitting maul no matter how deep woods pennsylvania you come from. Hope this may help someone in he future. Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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