ok guys, hope you can help me on this one. This is my first Roo (1981 GL 4X4) and i'm trying to get her up to running status. This is what is got, I recently discovered I have a broken temperature valve assembly. How critical are these to the engines operation... or is there a way I can bypass/remove this piece?

Im guessing your talking about one of the thermo vacuum valves. If its the front black one with a vac line to the air cleaner (which gets busted when removing the air cleaner) it controls stove-pipe on/off. You can unplug it and cap off the vac. line befor the valve. But it does help alot with cold driveability.

 

If its something else we will need more details, I.E. location size etc.

nope, that's it. I had hoped it would be that simple. Thanks alot! If there's amythimg else i run into i'll let you know... BTW what works to plug the hole that the valve was in, to keep fluid from coming out. (say i had an overzealous friend that may have lost said part) I have a rubber cork in there right now, but i don't expect it to hold to long...

Well since you have no choice just do it right. I you can go to the junk yard and find another. It will be cheaper than buying a plug at the hardware store and FAR cheaper than buying a new one.

Ok soo... Found the original and fashioned a cap using it and a piece of high temp PVC.

 

Also, instead of starting a new thread... I do have some other problems you could advise me on.

 

Here is the issue. The engine will start, and it will idle (sometimes for 5 minutes, sometimes 30 seconds). When I apply throttle, instead of the RPM's rising with a vroom.... if putts out and dies. I had thought it was the fuel pump, so I replaced that... still didn't fix. Thought the fuel pump may not be receiving power since when i turn the key till just before it starts it doesn't "whirr up" so i replaced the voltage regulator... this is getting mildly frustrating... any ideas?

Have you let it warm up? Its going to be alot more "cold-blooded" now that you have removed the stove pipe. Did this just start acting up? Could be alot of things really. Vac leaks: you need to check for broken hoses, plastic connectors and around the carb. Accelerator pump: either the pump might be empty or just not sealing enough to squirt gas, look down the carb and pump the accelerator linkage too see if its squirting gas. Could be other carb issues, is this carb a feedback unit? Timing is another thought...

So umm.... where would i find this "accelerator pump"? as in where can i find a new one or replacement parts.

Dieing when cold on EA81's is because the fast-idle cam mechanism driven by the choke isn't working or is not adjusted properly. That's very common.

 

If the accelerator pump weren't working there would be a huge dead spot off-idle even when warmed up. They don't usually fail, but are included in the rebuild kits.

 

Sounds like the carb needs a once over - at least a good cleaning and inspection if not torn down and rebuilt.

 

You best bet to solve all these problems and more is to install a Weber 32/36 DGV.

 

GD

Ok... this Hitachi has to go! Where is the best place to pick up this conversion kit thing? The best price I can find is $299.95+shipping. And thanks for the help guys, this thing is nowhere near what i'm used to in the south. But I like a challenge.