Hello all,

 

New to the board and not sure if this is the right place. Anyhow, the problem is, I have an EA81 engine in a VW beetle. A couple months ago, I had some wiring issues in the car so I started to mess around. Initially I thought I the coil was bad so I replaced the MSD coil with an Accel coil. Turned out that this was not the problem. A wire had shaken loose. So today I go out spray some starting fluid in the carb and get it running. Took a while for it to run and it ran as it did before. The problem is that I have a really tough time getting it to start. First I thought it was a fuel problem, but it stays on when started and the fuel prssure seems to be ok. I am convinced that there is an ignition problem but I don't know where else to look. The weird thing is that each time it has started, it seemed to have fired right as I was going to turn the engine off. As I moved the key a tiny bit in the off direction. Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate it.

Just taking a stab at your problem... how's the ignition timing?

How old is your belt? Stretched out maybe?

1-3-2-4 firing order, and make sure the first cylinder to fire is in the compression stage, not exhaust.

 

Before cranking it, take the disty cap off and see where you're at.

If you need to correct it, turn the crank nut and determine compression phase by finger in the plug hole ()... hope this helps... this has been my experience with your description...

I bought the car already converted last year. Not sure how old the belt is. It just seems weird that this starting issue only occured after I tried to fix the problem. Would the wrong wires on the +/- side of the coil cause this. There are 2 wires coming from the distributor. One black and one yellow. I have the yellow on the negative and the black on the positive. Im pretty sure that is how it was when I got it. Does that make sense? I messed around with timing but it does not seem to be out of time. Once its running that is. Would a bad rotor cause this? Bad distributor? What gives?

Your wiring is correct from coil to disty. Hmmm...

It would run seemingly fine even If ign timing were off, just tough to start.

My guess is 1) ign timing and 2) plugs.

You could take some emory cloth to the disty contacts and see If that helps.

Just taking a stab at your problem... how's the ignition timing?

How old is your belt? Stretched out maybe?

1-3-2-4 firing order' date=' and make sure the first cylinder to fire is in the compression stage, not exhaust.

 

Before cranking it, take the disty cap off and see where you're at.

If you need to correct it, turn the crank nut and determine compression phase by finger in the plug hole ()... hope this helps... this has been my experience with your description...[/quote']

 

What belt are you talking about? He has an EA81, and thats a pushrod engine?

referring to v-belt for WP and Alt; but come to think of it, this wouldn't affect ign timing after-all.

Wasn't referring to the timing belt that the beloved ea81 doesn't have.

how about the ignition ignitor inside the disty? i had a car that did this, it would crank and crank, and then fire up as soon as you let off the key.

I too have had the "no fire-up during crank, but fires-up when key is released" ordeal in the past. Got it right now on Son's '88 Wagon....

 

Check voltage to coil during cranking, should be battery voltage or very near it.

Also, pull coil wire from disty cap, hold it near a ground point on engine, crank engine... What does the spark look like? Should be a fairly brite spark that will jump a 1/4" gap easily.

 

I have found everything from worn ignition switch contacts, to fauly wiring, (IE: corroded connectors) as causes.

Improper grounding of vehicle body, and engine, to battery -, could also be issue.

 

Ignition coils output is directly related to input voltage, less voltage in on primary side = less voltage out on the secondary side.

It takes a "hotter spark" to "start" an engine than it does to "run" one.

 

 

My "temporary work-around" on Son's Wagon is;

Tap into the wire for the starter solenoid and run a wire to the coil + side of a relay, run wire from the relay coil - to battery -.

Run fused wire from battery +, to switched contacts of relay, run wire from other side of switched contact to ignition coil +.

 

Very simular to what they used to do for a points type ignition, way back when... Those "started" on 12 volts, "ran" on 6 volts thru a resistor of some type, depending on make of vehicle.

Thanks for all the replies. Im leaning toward the weak voltage at the coil. I may try to throw a hard wire to the coil and see how it starts. Ill post an update.

I think Tom is on the right path. I have not seen it happen on a Subie but I have seen the same thing happen on riding mowers. The ignition switch itself causes the coil to ground when in the Start position. I know the ignition system is not the same but the theory and principles, as well as the operation of the switch, are.

 

I think you could disconnect the Positive lead from the starter and check voltage at the coil with the key in the Run position then in the Start position. It may not be the switch itself in this case but could be another component or wiring which Tom listed several.

Hey all,

 

Hard wired a line from the battery. Started right up. Now I know its an electrical problem. Thanks for the help.!1