New pump, replaced rack- steering still terrible.

Need some more ideas.

Thanks,

Dave

Is it stiff, hard to turn, sloppy, Noisy?

 

Oh, an alignment wouldn't hurt.

Hard to turn and consistent. Wheel does not return to center after sharp turn.

97 outback.

 

Thanks for the help,

Dave

Oh,just had alignment done after rack replacement.

Sounds like an alignment problem. Did they give you a sheet with the before and after specs on it? Not returning to center can indicate a problem with the caster angle, not so much the toe.

 

Could also be the U joints in the steering shaft are binding.

The alignment job looks good from the info sheet. What's involved in replacing the steering joints? It's about the only thing left.

 

Thanks,

dave

Not hard. Two pinch bolts. Might have to lower the rack a hair on one side to get room to pop it off on one side. Not a ton of room down there though, so that may complicate things.

Loosen the pinch bolts, then set the steering wheel in place by engaging the steering lock. The front wheels should be on the ground or at least pointed straight ahead and the steering rack and input shaft marked, so the steering wheel alignment is retained during replacement. You don't want to put it on then get in the car to find your steering wheel 90° off when the car's going straight.

Same problem with my mom's 98 outback. Steering would not return to center, but felt fine other than that. Sprayed penetrating oil on the steering coupler u-joints and the problem went away. Put a new coupler in a month later, about $75 from the dealer. Ran across the same problem on a 99 outback recently, it was binding, releasing, binding, ect as you turned the wheel. Dribbled bicycle lube oil on the u-joints, has mostly gone away. Recommended he replace the coupler when he gets the money.

 

It's a shame you replaced the rack and the pump, you could have avoided that by asking about it here first.

 

*edit* I did tell you it was the coupler in your last thread:

Re: guessed wrong on steering

The steering coupler can definiately be a culprit for this. If the U-joints are siezed, the steering effort will be much greater no matter how well the power steering is working. My mom's 98 outback wouldn't return to center after a turn. The steering felt smooth, just woudn't return on it's own.

 

I replaced the coupler ($70) because the U-joints had stiffend up. Steering has been fine since then.

Edited March 29, 201016 yr by WoodsWagon

Thanks guys. Yep, I usually do things rump roast backwards.

 

The steering is not jerky,it's the same hard turning on full radius of turn. But on the bright side, I'm getting a fine workout.

 

Dave

I have no experience with Outbacks, but are you sure you have a problem or is it just that it's not what you think it should be? I had a 95 Legacy Brighton and a 96 Legacy GT. The GT steered harder than the Brighton but that was because of design. Similar to how the GTs had 4.44 rear ends to make them accelerate faster than the Ls, the GT's steering was "harder" to make it feel like you were more in touch with the road.

 

Keith

91 Loyale,

 

You were right. I poured some lube down the steering shaft into the couplers and it steers great.

Remind me to always take your advice!

 

Thanks to everyone.

Dave

I'd replace those coupler U-joints if I were you. If they were seized up to the point of causing stiff steering, that means that the bearings inside are probably rusted up...it's unlikely, but you don't want any of your steering parts falling apart....

 

Any other opinions on this point? Am I being overly concerned?

 

Nathan

I think they would have a noticeably significant amount of play before they fall apart, but it would be wise to replace the coupler altogether, if nothing else with one from a junkyard car just to be safe.