My 88gl has 200k on the motor, with an overhaul at 100k. It has a really, really rough idle, until you get it up to about 2K, and it has a really bad hesitation, just like WASH. I however have a different variable. I have a really loud ticking sound. The guy i bought it from told me a collapsed lifter, but it doesn't have a miss, ever, so i assume the valve's are opening. Am I wrong in this assumption? and would this have anything to do with the rough idle and hesitation with no power? I've never really messed with H4's, but it works about the same as an in line 4 right cept the pistons are off to the side?

 

I went over WASHroad's thread and the firing order might be off, the guy that owned it was a self proclaimed god when it came to soobs because he owns 7. So, what is the firing order off the dist, and which piston is which on the block?

 

I took my car out last night and got it up to about 65, wouldn't go past that. would that be related to this, or an entirely different problem with the auto trans? It shifts, just wont really go. every once in awhile, it will shift from 2nd to 3rd, then back to 2nd, then to 3rd.

I hope you didnt pay much for this kind sir

200 bucks my good sir. and the great news is....

 

it fixed itself. a bottle of Lucas, a tank of premium, and and some sea foam.

Perfect, honestly you be suprised how these cars cure themselves. I dont believe the dash clock has worked in 15 years and all of a sudden pow it works again.

my dash clock showed up upside down one day, thendimmed out for 3 days, not its back set two hours. its and by upside down, i mean, it was literally 4:78 but flipped. it freaked me out, i thought my roomate had flipped it until i saw the colon. I also figured out the rough idle. the throttle wire has managed the bumfuzzle itself so loose that i have to press half the gas to get it to rev. the bolts are rusted stuck, and i dont want to break them, any suggestions as to the rust? WD-40 did nothing.

If a valve is not opening, it will run rough. It is probably time to replace all of the lifters at $40 each. The timing could be off as well, which will cause loss of power and rough idle. While you are at it, replace plugs, rotor, cap and plug wires. Those all should be replaced every 20,000 miles tops. Just check your files and see when you replaced them last.

Perfect, honestly you be suprised how these cars cure themselves. I dont believe the dash clock has worked in 15 years and all of a sudden pow it works again.

 

Christine?

 

hey this is OT, but my clock, horn and cruise were acting funny, it turned out to be in the ignition switch itself, wiggling the key, clock pops back to life

 

Umm, about the above post... not real sound advice. On any particular item.

 

So, you found your throttle cable was way out of adjustment, that explains the lack of power at the high end, but not the idle. Has it gotten any better with use?

Edited April 18, 201015 yr by Txakura