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97 legacy 2.5 won't start newbie needs help please

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I have a 97 legacy 2.5. I am not getting spark from any plug. I've been reading up on them and it seems like i check the cam sensor, the coil pack and the crank sensor. What should i have for resistance on a good cam/ crank sensor? And how do i test the coil pack? the car hasn't ran in a week or so. But when it was running it just died on me. Don't know if thats any help. Also the temp is full on hot and when i turn the car off the fans stay on and the fuel pump runs. Any help would be excelent thanks

Cam/crank sensors are hall effect sensors. Probe them while cranking and look for the signal to pulse. It's best to do these with an analog meter. Digital ones don't generally react fast enough to see the full change in voltage.

 

The coil pack can be tested by an auto parts store. Another possibility is the ignitor, but have the coil tested first, and check signal on the cam/crank sensors before going to the ignitor. I don't know of any test procedure for the ignitor but they're easy enough to find in junkyards and most of the time the junkyards don't know what it is. Just tell 'em it's a relay or something dumb and you get it for like 2 bucks. :grin:

Is the CEL on?

 

If so pull the codes with a code reader.

Since the car was running when the trouble happened you should check for a broken timing belt first. As for the electrical issues, part of the trouble may be with the iginition switch. The fuel pump and temperature gauge should turn off with the ignition switch. The fans may be a different problem. Possibly a shorted sensor switch.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

cel isn't on. Checked the timming belt looks fine. ignition switch? wheres that and how do i check it?

The key turns the lock which also turns the ignition switch for electrical connection to power. You stated in your original post that the fuel pump stayed running with the ignition off. If that is correct then the ignition switch has a problem. It isn't cutting power off when it should be. It may just be due to an adjustmet problem. The switch may be behind the key lock. Some heavy gauge wires will be going to the switch since they carry a lot of current. Use a test light probe to check the switch connections.

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