If anyone happen to read my first couple posts on my '97 Outback ticking noise (piston slap, bottom end noise, lifter tap, flexplate, etc...) I took it to a Subie shop today and the seasoned vet listed all over and confirmed my hunch that the noise was totally amplified at the inspection window in the bell housing ...meaning probably flexplate. (at least praying that's what it is)

 

So I'm pulling the motor this weekend. I've never pulled a Subaru motor before. Are there any online write-ups I can reference?

I don't recall any off the top of my head.

 

It's rather straight forward. Other than the few lower engine to transmission bolts being a total pain to get too, the rest is straight forward and simple.

 

I like to unbolt steering pump from block and swing to passengers side, same with a/c to driver side, so you don't have to disconnect anything. A/C will require a bungee usually to hold it out of the way.

 

Remove fans and best to remove radiator for more room and so nothing hits it since it's easy but it'll come out with the radiator in place.

 

Remove starter for access to bellhousing/engine bolts.

Only two 14mm engine mount bolts underneath.

6 14mm exhaust manifold bolts.

Remove the one bolt holding the exhaust back by the trans, 14mm. Don't have to remove the exhaust from the hanger, just helps to remove that bolt if you need wiggle room with the exhaust to pull it off the exhaust studs (which usually come out of the engine anyway so it doesn't matter).

Disconnect all the air hoses and one vacuum hose going to passengers side.

3 electrical plugs to disconnect on the passengers side, real simple.

throttle cables are really easy, like any other pretty much.

disconnect heater core hoses from engine to cabin wall and radiator hoses.

 

Automatic - remove flexplate to torque converter bolts through the access hold under the throttle body.

 

Pretty straight forward as far as engine pulling goes, no special tools needed though an assortment of extensions and definitely a wobble socket will help with those lower engine to transmission bolts and the two lowest nuts, they're really annoying. Other than those notes on those bottom nuts there's not much too it.

 

If you don't have good tools for that or can't get to them, just knock the pin out of the CV axle so it can slide away from the transmission, giving you extra room. Really simple too.

 

Once all unbolted just keep working yourself around the bellhousing with a small screw driver, big screwdriver, then a chisel until the engine and trans separate. if it's the first time being apart they'll be really tight and need some working. if not they usually split right off.

All I can really add to the previous post is to second getting a swivel adapter for the bellhousing/starter bolts/nuts underneath, and an 18" extension, makes life really easy underneath. And make sure instead of pulling entire harnesses, just disconnect the great big plugs between the engine and body instead, piece of cake. Take it slow when you think you have everything removed and you're beginning the lifting procedure, just in case you catch on something or maybe missed a connector or hose somewhere. It's amazing how simple these engines are to remove.

If you want to, come on up to Richmond this weekend and we can do it together. I have all the tools necessary and a nice enclosed area to work in. I am pretty sure that I have a good flex plate laying around too, so you can save on that bit.

 

Mike

i saved this one a while back.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033