Holy crap.. my wife is right.. I really am stalking the car

 

ROFLMAO - that is too funny!

 

for the most part, the early Lego's are pretty reliable, easy to work on - Similar to the older GL's but with MPFI rather than SPFI.

 

first things to check are the basic stuff really - plugs, wires (spark),fluids, filters (air, oil, fuel) oil change... and of course, check for stored codes!! pretty much the same basic procedures as the older GL's, but wires are up under the dash, just to the outside of the steering column - and watch the CEL for the flashed codes - black plugs for reading, green plugs for Dealer check - both for clearing (there is a VERY clear and concise writeup for Lego codes at Legacy777's site. was a HUGE help when trying to diagnose my car recently)

linky

 

If the car is really stumbling if/when you start it - first thing to check, obviously, is spark. Had a wire go bad on my car - was arcing out the side of the plug end boot - car ran like crap! with the car running, carefully pull each wire off it's plug one at a time to a) see if there is any change in the way it idles, and see/hear the spark and where it is going to (spark on these babies should be very strong and easily visible, even during the day as long as it isnt in direct bright sunlight - also bites pretty hard if you get too close to the spark!) turn the wire so you can check all sides of the boot

side note - if you do find one that is arcing funny, it can be wrapped w/electrical tape temporarily - several good tight overlapping wraps should correct the arcing for a short time.

 

Timing light would be the next step - if it is off time there is an excellent write up on doing these in the USRM. Just remember to go slowly when compressing the tensioner - snug, let rest, snug, let rest - takes several minutes to get it completely compressed - DON"T rush it!

 

and what about the Cam position sensor?

 

I cant really say anything about this one - havent had an issue with it - BUT - did have a problem with the knock sensor - housing was horribly cracked - ordered a new one (not terribly expensive, $20 or so) and it was fairly easy to change (getting to the wire connector was the hardest part!) No problems since.

 

So when are you going to get the darn thing & get it home???

Awesome, thanks for the tips.

 

I cant wait until i get this dang car. At the moment, we are waiting for payday, or, if i get a expense check from work. (they pay me mileage when i go to certain sites). Neither are coming soon enough though . I've arranged with the guy to pick it up Monday night after work though.

 

I'm not trying to get my hopes up but I'm really hoping its something stupidly simple like spark miss fire, timing being off a tooth or something like that. .

 

I'll keep in mind the codes to check too.. I've seen cars run like crap because of a code that's not clearing. so.. we will see

 

*fingers crossed*

 

 

-Justin

I just towed a 91 legacy home from purchase. About 70 miles. I used a tow dolly rented from u-haul. ($55.)

I took rear drive shaft loose at rear differential. It will lie inside of bracket just fine. No need to remove it. Have done this twice works fine. I towed with a 90 dodge l150. easily.